Avid Juicy 5

wesk
wesk Posts: 131
edited January 2010 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi,

I've got a set of Juicy 5's, which I'm pleased with power wise. However, setup is killing me.
I can't got the front to stop rubbing. I's not a bent rotor, the brake is bled (I think correctly, no spongy feel), it is central. and the pistons seem to be moving the same (so not stuck).
It appears that the pads simply do not retract far enough to allow clearance between pads and rotor. I can't believe this is how they 'should' be, so any ideas would be greatfully recieved....
If I can't get this sorted, it's off to CRC for a set of Hayes!!

Thanks in advance,

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    new brakes?

    give them a week to bed in.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • nwmlarge
    nwmlarge Posts: 778
    they take a while for the pads to settle.
  • wesk
    wesk Posts: 131
    No, not new. Got the bike second hand (Trek 6700) and trying to get them sorted. If they would move .5mm each side further, problem would be sorted!
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    re set the pistons and start again with the set up, as per the manual, then bed them in again.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • captainfly
    captainfly Posts: 1,001
    Maybe an over filled system, , the pistons need resetting in thebleed process with the right spacing, have a look at the avid site for the maual.
    -_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_
    Mongoose Teocali
    Giant STP0

    Why are MTB economics; spend twice as much as you intended, but only half as much as you wish you could afford? :roll:
  • shefbiker
    shefbiker Posts: 255
    did you use the special pad spacer when you bled them?
  • wesk
    wesk Posts: 131
    Erm, no. I just left the wheel in and used the disk. Does that mean I've set them so that they are always touching the rim on return? If so - I feel like a bit of an idiot...... :oops:

    I actually made the bleed kit myself (could not justify spending £40 on a couple or syringes, airline, clamps and M5 barbed hese adapters). Is the pad spacer effectivly flat on the surfacs that the calipers push? If so, I'll machine one later and use that (I'm such a cheap arse....)

    Thanks
  • shefbiker
    shefbiker Posts: 255
    er, yeh. i did the same and spend bloomin ages trying to sort it... you need a special spacer (that is wider than the disk) to set the right amount of oil in the system. Once you've done that they'll be lovely!

    i called my friendy LBS and they had a few spare spacers and let me have one... annoyingly they're not available as a seperate part. failing that, the new avid juicy bleed kits come with an array of spacers... but pricey as you say.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    just use them.

    they will sort them selves out in a bit.

    but you should have bled the brakes with the pistons full home.

    Same as for all brakes.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • shefbiker
    shefbiker Posts: 255
    using them didn't make it any better when I made this mistake... as far as i know i bled them with the pistons pushed right back, but part of the bleed procedure is pumping the lever like when you're braking, which i guess pushes the pistons out a bit. After a lot of heartache i re bled them with the spacer (which was very tight to fit with new pads) and they are now great.
  • wesk
    wesk Posts: 131
    OK, thanks guys. I'll be quickly milling a piece of nylon down to the right thickness then re-bleeding the brakes tonight.
    Thanks for the help - numpty attack over!
  • shefbiker
    shefbiker Posts: 255
    if no-one else does it earlier, i'll measure the thickness of the spacer tonight and post up here this evening...
  • shefbiker
    shefbiker Posts: 255
    the pad spacer is shaped such that it is tapered so that it's easier to fit, and has the same 'ears' on it as the pads so that it is retained by the pad retaining clip.

    the main body of the spacer is about 2.75mm thick. if you're doing this with 'new' pads, you need to make sure the caplier body and the back of the pads have no muck or corrosion on them if you're going to have a hope of getting the spacer in there... i guess it's easier with worn pads.

    good luck.