Low Front end grip

popstar
popstar Posts: 1,392
edited January 2010 in MTB beginners
Hello all ... 

After some experimental riding on trails, noticed few things. I bloody can't get enough weight on front wheel to make it grip/steer. Me bike tends to understeer on faster corners, and worse in slow snowy trails its just impossible to ride unless I sit on bars. Weight distribution in normal riding position seems to be 35front - 65rear approx,  maybe I do something wrong or need to play with set up of a bike? However on steeper downhills me front comes to life (like darty pointiness of it which I like). Please point me into right direction!

My bike Standard Rockhopper sl expert in Large size, myself 6.0ft and 14st.
What could have been (Video)

I'll choose not put too much stake into someone's opinion who is admittingly terrible though

Comments

  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Try running a little more suspension sag, and sliding the saddle forward on the rails a touch. A lower, longer front end places more weight on the front.

    But be aware this will make things more nervous when the ground points down.
  • popstar
    popstar Posts: 1,392
    Thanks for advice, will try with seat first ... hope it wouldn't end with replacing parts.
    What could have been (Video)

    I'll choose not put too much stake into someone's opinion who is admittingly terrible though
  • richg1979
    richg1979 Posts: 1,087
    what tyre pressure you running in front tyre?
  • tlw1
    tlw1 Posts: 22,120
    he says 35

    I had this with my P7, had to adapt my position & run lower pressures - it worked 8)
  • Atz
    Atz Posts: 1,383
    He didn't say 35psi in the front, he was saying how much as a percentage of his weight was over the front wheel.

    Anyway, lower front pressure, changed riding position, possibly a new front tyre (I couldn't live with an Eskar on the front of my FS so swapped it for an Ardent). Also, there's a chance you're not attacking the corner enough which has an "understeer" style effect at speed. Depends if by low-grip you mean that you're dropping the bike or just not making the corner.
  • richg1979
    richg1979 Posts: 1,087
    are you getting up off saddle and weighting the bars when hitting fast bends? the amount of people you see out squrming around on the trails while sitting on the saddle is crazy. bum of the saddle weight forward and just hold on :wink:
  • stumpyjon
    stumpyjon Posts: 4,069
    It will be riding position and possibly tyres. The main thing I learnt from Ed Oxley on one of his skills days was not to hang off the back of my saddle at every opportunity. Amazing, being further forward and more upright worked a treat, berms actually became enjoyable. It was interesting to see many other riders out on the same day hanging over the back end for every berm, techincal bit or slight downhill section. Look at many of the guys in the photos in the mags, they're usually pretty upright and central on the bike.
    It's easier to ask for forgiveness than for permission.

    I've bought a new bike....ouch - result
    Can I buy a new bike?...No - no result
  • diy
    diy Posts: 6,473
    I dunno what tyres you are running on your hopper, my mate has an 09 version and the specialized tyres are very hard and not very suited to snow. You might try a chunkier tread tyre up front also.

    Having said that, given that I think you ride the same trails I do, I was also struggling for front grip over the weekend due to the snow, slush and mud, and I have kenda Blue grooves on which are very soft and very grippy (and very hard work).
  • popstar
    popstar Posts: 1,392
    Thanks for many replies.

    After reading your suggestions, I think I have a problem of getting silly habitt to sit on back wheel like noobs you describing. It does feel strange and unecesary to always keep shifting all weight on back wheel. After a bit of experimenting , I am dumping that you-tube silly advice** and get more aggresive aka center positioned or leaning onto forks where possible. Don't shout -get MTB skillz lessons* , thats something I will do with me wife shortly.

    Others suggested to run lower pressures in tyres, unfortunately I don't do those scientificaly accurate pressures as you realise am not that pro* :!: However me tires are not pumped rock hard, as don't like that feeling of hard pumped tire sliding ... took me few rides to notice and feel importance of pressures but don't have that gauge meter

    I have dumped spesh standard fast traks , as they are quite horrible in winter conditions ... they are only good in dry hard packed trails, using michelin country muds atm. They grip better than fast traks but don't roll that well.
    What could have been (Video)

    I'll choose not put too much stake into someone's opinion who is admittingly terrible though
  • Atz
    Atz Posts: 1,383
    A pressure gauge is about £3 and, honestly, is something you really need (although I mostly use the one on my track pump). Pumping a tyre up by feel alone is fine to get you home after a puncture but you could do with being more precise when setting your bike up optimally.
  • popstar
    popstar Posts: 1,392
    Hehh, Atz you didn't forget to slap me with pressure gauge. Will shop around for it now.
    What could have been (Video)

    I'll choose not put too much stake into someone's opinion who is admittingly terrible though
  • Atz
    Atz Posts: 1,383
    It's stuff I found out the hard way so easier if you don't have to (lets just say, a tyre rolling off the rim and loads of snakebites is not the best way to find out how the pressure is too low)
  • richg1979
    richg1979 Posts: 1,087
    a pressure gauge is a must, even 5 psi makes a dramatic effect on cornering.
  • popstar wrote:
    ...I think I have a problem of getting silly habitt to sit on back wheel like noobs you describing. It does feel strange and unecesary to always keep shifting all weight on back wheel. ...

    Had exactly the same problem myself. Read lots of advice saying "get your weight over the back wheel on steep technical sections".

    Problem is as a beginner it's easy to over estimate what a "steep" section is.
    Found myself hanging off the back of the bike at the first sign of a downward slope or hint of a drop and subsequently losing all direct control of the bike.

    In reality in all but the most vertical of descents I feel better off keeping my weight central and low.
    Less internal organs, same supertwisted great taste.
  • The key to having your weight in a good position is to keep a imaginary vertical line between your hips and your bottom bracket.

    So when the going gets steep you will be over the back wheel, but when it's fast and flowing you should have a far more neutral position, standing up on pretty level pedals.

    This is the basis of good riding technique, from here you can develop the skills to tackle berms, etc faster.
    If you're not living life on the edge, you're taking up too much room!
  • diy
    diy Posts: 6,473
    + 1 I like that imaginary line concept - its very easy to visualise obviously not what you want to do when you go around a corner, but front to back a good basis to start.
  • Atz
    Atz Posts: 1,383
    Obviously just remember to move around on the bike fast, the number of new riders who go over backwards because they forget to shift their weight forward again when the trail goes up (like in bombholes) is not inconsiderable. that said, you'll only do it once :)
  • popstar
    popstar Posts: 1,392
    After adjusting - positioning seat forwards, all understeer has gone!!! Of course took advice on positioning and visionary line, now I ride with more confidence and speed ... going faster makes me actually feel the bike. Have to be carefull though, there is thin line between being on edge and crashing.
    What could have been (Video)

    I'll choose not put too much stake into someone's opinion who is admittingly terrible though