Steep frame angles.
Pork Sword
Posts: 213
Was just wondering why so many modern brands sell small and medium sized road frames with steep seat angles of 74 or greater?
Most of the leading authorities on the subject of frames, and position I've read (Bernard Hinault and Claude Genzling etc) suggest having shallower seat angles of around 72 or 73 degrees, as it helps a rider to achieve the required saddle setback, which then allows the 'much heralded' knee over pedal axle position.
As far as I'm aware, the only current 'off-the-peg' frames available with 73 angle seat tubes in the smaller sizes are by Cevelo and Time. Which - for those of us who have long femurs, and short tibias - means going for a custom build if we want to achieve the correct position...
Is this an issue worth pursuing, or doesn't it really matter in the modern age with the availability of longer saddles - such as the Fizik Arione - and seatposts with more layback?
Would be interested to know what other people out there think..
Most of the leading authorities on the subject of frames, and position I've read (Bernard Hinault and Claude Genzling etc) suggest having shallower seat angles of around 72 or 73 degrees, as it helps a rider to achieve the required saddle setback, which then allows the 'much heralded' knee over pedal axle position.
As far as I'm aware, the only current 'off-the-peg' frames available with 73 angle seat tubes in the smaller sizes are by Cevelo and Time. Which - for those of us who have long femurs, and short tibias - means going for a custom build if we want to achieve the correct position...
Is this an issue worth pursuing, or doesn't it really matter in the modern age with the availability of longer saddles - such as the Fizik Arione - and seatposts with more layback?
Would be interested to know what other people out there think..
let all your saddles be comfy and all your rides less bumpy....
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its because of the toe clearance with big wheels. if its small you may be better with sligthly smaller 650c wheels and normal frame angles.0
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The problem with slackening the STA whilst retaining the front-centre distance to eliminate front-wheel overlap is that you're effectively lengthening the top tube length so it really depends on what length of top tube you're after? If you're of shorter stature, I'd recommend looking at classic Italian frame geometry which is pretty well sorted for stability and handling whereas a lot of others just scale down their 'average' sizeMake mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..0
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Ok, thanks for your input guys.
If only I didn't have short legs and arms like an Orangutan!
I like the look of Bianchi bikes to be honest as they just look 'right' to my eye.
If I need to play around with stem lengths to get an optimum fit then that's not such a hassle and definitely cheaper than swapping frames!let all your saddles be comfy and all your rides less bumpy....0 -
I would also prefer a slacker STA like you, but there's a big choice of long set-back seatposts that will easily accommodate your position - I have a 32mm setback FSA on one bike and the saddle a long way back on the rails which means I can realy get the quads working whilst in the saddle.Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..0