POWERMETER - Elite+ vs Pro+
rokkala
Posts: 649
Me again, trying to decide whether it will be worth blowing money on a powermeter as well.
Difference in cost between the Elite+ and Pro+ is about £200 or so. Apart from the Pro+ having an alloy axle rather than steel, and weighing less, what do you lose functionality-wise with the Elite, if anything?
Clueless about these
Difference in cost between the Elite+ and Pro+ is about £200 or so. Apart from the Pro+ having an alloy axle rather than steel, and weighing less, what do you lose functionality-wise with the Elite, if anything?
Clueless about these
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Best person to speak to / e-mail is Bob at cyclepowermeters.com...0
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Allegedly the aluminium axle of the Pro+ may be prone to flexing (the SL+ also has an aluminium axle, but its beefier).
I'd phone Bob if you want an answer anytime soon
More problems but still living....0 -
Email to Bob, job done, cheers!0
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Any chance you could post here and let us know what he says - saves the rest of us asking Bob? I've wondered about the diff between the two hubs as well.0
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I'd like to know the difference between the Pro+ and the SL+.0
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Yea sure, i'll let you know what he says0
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Rokkala wrote:Yea sure, i'll let you know what he says
One has a 12mm axle, the other 15mm - but have no idea what that actually means in terms of performance. Weights are similar but there's a big price jump from one to the next. I can only assume that the 12mm one (Pro+) is more 'flexy'.0 -
Pokerface wrote:One has a 12mm axle, the other 15mm - but have no idea what that actually means in terms of performance. Weights are similar but there's a big price jump from one to the next. I can only assume that the 12mm one (Pro+) is more 'flexy'.
But the Pro+ is the more expensive of the two, wouldn't pay more for a flexier hub! Maybe the Elite+ needs to be 15mm because its made from steel and not alloy?0 -
There's a big difference when you buy these as a SYSYEM.
The elite+ when bought has a system has a down graded little yellow computer which does not display rolling average watts (a pretty dam good feature if you ask me)
I don't see much difference in the hubs on spec. I've got the elite+ and I can't find anything wrong with it for training. It's probably not the best race wheel (for tt's) as it's a bit heavy (especially with a wheel cover) but power reading in races far out weighs the cons.
Best bang for your buck imo is a garmin edge 500 matched to an elite+ (might need to buy the battery removal tool as well)0 -
Can a power tap on a wheel set be used on two different bikes, eg: winter and summer racer bike?
Plus is it easy to change??0 -
NapoleonD wrote:oldgreg wrote:Can a power tap on a wheel set be used on two different bikes, eg: winter and summer racer bike?
Plus is it easy to change??
Yes.
It's as easy as chainging a wheel (because that's all you do!!)
You just need a sensor and mount on each bike...
If you are using a Garmin 705 can you just swap wheels? or do you need multiple sensors and sh!t too?0 -
redddraggon wrote:NapoleonD wrote:oldgreg wrote:Can a power tap on a wheel set be used on two different bikes, eg: winter and summer racer bike?
Plus is it easy to change??
Yes.
It's as easy as chainging a wheel (because that's all you do!!)
You just need a sensor and mount on each bike...
If you are using a Garmin 705 can you just swap wheels? or do you need multiple sensors and sh!t too?
Yes, just stick your Garmin on your other bike too.
I got the 705/Elite+ package from Wiggle. Great package. The Garmin comes with two bar/stem connectors anyway, so all you need is another sensor and crank magnet to stick on the second bike.
If you're using the wheel just for training the Elite + is perfectly fine. If it's a racing wheel and you're a weight weenie you may want a better hub, but depending on how rich you are the weight saving for the additional cost may be better spent elsewhere. The SL+ is the best you'll need. I'll probably get a SL+ when I get some Zipps next winter, but for a training wheel stick with the Elite +.0 -
redddraggon wrote:NapoleonD wrote:oldgreg wrote:Can a power tap on a wheel set be used on two different bikes, eg: winter and summer racer bike?
Plus is it easy to change??
Yes.
It's as easy as chainging a wheel (because that's all you do!!)
You just need a sensor and mount on each bike...
If you are using a Garmin 705 can you just swap wheels? or do you need multiple sensors and sh!t too?
With the wireless you can just swap wheels and move the Garmin across, no need for any extra sensors unless you want cadence to be done with magnet rather than from the hub...0 -
Tbh, if you want something for racing and you want to use top notch wheels and your thinking of spending the money on the sl's then perhaps the 'new' quark powermeter is a better option, especially if you've already got a garmin.0
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Rokkala wrote:Pokerface wrote:One has a 12mm axle, the other 15mm - but have no idea what that actually means in terms of performance. Weights are similar but there's a big price jump from one to the next. I can only assume that the 12mm one (Pro+) is more 'flexy'.
But the Pro+ is the more expensive of the two, wouldn't pay more for a flexier hub! Maybe the Elite+ needs to be 15mm because its made from steel and not alloy?
I was talking about the difference between the Pro+ and the SL+. The difference between the Elite and Pro models is largely weight AFAIK.0 -
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Pokerface wrote:Rokkala wrote:Yea sure, i'll let you know what he says
One has a 12mm axle, the other 15mm - but have no idea what that actually means in terms of performance. Weights are similar but there's a big price jump from one to the next. I can only assume that the 12mm one (Pro+) is more 'flexy'.
2010 PowerTap Pro+ have the same axle as the SL and SL+ now, so as long as you get this years model, the flex issue is no longer true.
That said, as a 75kg rider with 1300watt max, 1000watt 20seconds, I've never noticed flex being an issue on my 2009 Pro+Jibbering Sports Stuff: http://jibbering.com/sports/0
