maxle 20mm bolt thru fitment question....
hyperman
Posts: 232
i've been looking at getting some forks with the 20mm maxle bolt thru fitment but what else do i need? iv'e just got normal QR wheels on at the moment so do i have to buy a new wheel or can i just replace the hub?
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You may be able to covert the hub to run a 20mm axle.
What hub is it?Now that we are strong ought to bear the infirmities of the weak and not to please ourselves. ROMANS 15:10 -
Probably needs a new hub. But since half the price of a wheel is the build, that doesn't always make sense financially. If you can find a 20mm hub that uses the same spokes then it might work out, but it might be easier to flog the wheel.
Some hubs are convertible btw, not that many but they're out there.Uncompromising extremist0 -
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cheers for the replies, the front hub is a bontrager select off a trek 6700 2010 bike(now on a commencal meta), the problem i've got is the fox float 32 on the bike just don't seem very sturdy so am going to look at getiing some other shox, so i've been looking at something with a 20mm maxle or possibly even a 15mm bolt thru fork to give that extra sturdyness..0
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don't think the bonty hubs are convertible but a new 15 or 20mm boltthrough wheel can be had very reasonably from Merlin etc. A front bolt through hub is a dead simple piece of kit afterall.
not sure about the Fox 32 "not feeling too sturdy" though, have you had them serviced? Could be the bushings are worn so it feels less stiff because there's movement in there. OTOH, a bolt though like a Pike or Thor will feel tons stiffer for sureEverything in moderation ... except beer
Beer in moderation ... is a waste of beer
If riding an XC race bike is like touching the trail,
then riding a rigid singlespeed is like licking it
... or being punched by it, depending on the day0 -
i don't think they will need servicing they're brand new..i'm a failrly heavy bloke and i like to throw the bike around a bit (maybe a bit too much judging by yesterdays trip to hospital....), so am looking for some stiffer forks, preferably a pike air u turn..0
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RevellRider wrote:I'd never re-use spokes to build a wheel
Why not?0 -
i used some std qr fox float 140mm travel forks with dt rws sqewer.for a while and they can feel a bit twangy on heavyly rutted and off camber ground, i replaced these with some more fox's with a 15mm axle, there was not much increas in stiffness between the 2.
i then changed to a 20mm axle rs revelation and its made a big diffrence in tracking and steering response and generaly felt more solid..
i think you would be disapointed with the 15mm axle esp being a bigger bloke, my money would be on a fox 36 (maybe ott) fork or 20mm rs fork.0 -
billysan wrote:RevellRider wrote:I'd never re-use spokes to build a wheel
Why not?
+1 if they are the correct length and not damaged. No Probs."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
presumably you need to keep sides and trailing/leading separate?0
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I'll say something which might upset some people, but I'm not too convinced as to the awesometude of maxles... I have a 100-130mm 2008 Revelation in QR, and a 110-140mm Revelation with a Maxle Light, and there's very little difference between the two. Not much weight penalty either mind, but though the maxle'd fork does seem slightly more accurate in amongst the rocks, I can't really say it's made much difference to my riding.
(I've run both with the same wheel, in the same frame- I have a convertible front hub)
No doubt as you go to bigger forks and bigger hits that might change but for trailbike use I'm pretty unconvinced. There's a difference, sure, but it's not huge.Uncompromising extremist0 -
Not convinced by Maxle. It is one of the most overcomplicated pieces of garbage ever, and it keeps working loose after a few rides, no matter what you do to it.
The system on the Fox36s is perfection incarnate however.0 -
My maxle's never come loose, doesn't give any indiction that it wants to either. Not particularily complicated either.Uncompromising extremist0
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Northwind wrote:My maxle's never come loose, doesn't give any indiction that it wants to either. Not particularily complicated either.0
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yeehaamcgee wrote:Northwind wrote:My maxle's never come loose, doesn't give any indiction that it wants to either. Not particularily complicated either.
Mine's never come loose either. It's a damned sight better that the Fox thing on the 36s with the double q/r flips on the lowers which constantly bind, plus you run the the risk of cracking the casting if you're a bit ham-fisted - now that IS a bad design and it can't happen with a Maxle.yeehaamcgee wrote:It is very unnecesarily complicated whern you compare it to something like the MArzocchi or Fox systems. There is also an inherent weak point, where the maxle is split to allow for expansion - Basically, it's an engineering clusterfu*k
Bobbins. Expanding clamps are a perfectly good and above all simple solution. They've been in use in one guise or another in millions of applications all over the world. The likes of Tollok and Fenner stake their reputions on them!!0 -
you can't crack the castings on the Fox 36s, unless you're a complete numpty who adjusts the tension, and closes them tight without the axle in place. It's just a more elegant solution than the maxle. None of the forces applied to the system during normal use can ever possible cause it to come undone. The maxle on the other hand, relies on friction between a split thread and the fork leg to keep it in place - it's just plain bad engineering.0
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you say you have fox float 32. you should be able to get them converted to the qr15 contact mojo, im sure they could replace the lowers to qr15 ones, don't know how much it costs but i seen it somewere..www.bearbackbiking.com
http://www.youtube.com/user/MrDelcol#play/uploads
hd vids
http://www.youtube.com/user/topasassin#play/uploads
http://www.vimeo.com/user2514116/videos0