Full length or cut cable housing?

jpstar

Basically just wondering which is better, just found out that the cable set I've order is one long bit of cable out that isn't long enough for it to be used for a full length outer on front and rear, should have checked really.
So which is better? Full length housing, if I go for this I'll need to pop down the LBS and buy one, not too much trouble really.
Or, where the cable is bare at some parts (i.e. downtube and chainstay)
For winter riding I'm guessing full length to stop the muck getting in, but then again won't this make it harder to lube the cable? And I looked on google and some other sites said that it created more friction in the wire.

I'm just wondering whether it would be worth it going down to the shop to get an outer.

Cheers,
Joe

nicklouse

it depends on the frame.

is it designed for a full length set up or not?

jpstar

Its got bar cables running along the downtube at the moment but I wondered whether or not it would be more beneficial to run a full length outer and follow the same routing.
It's a hardtail if that makes much difference by the way.

stigofthedump

I had a break in the cable of my Marin Rift zone. The water runs down the inner into the last loop before the rear mech and this was forever full of grot.
I replaced the cable with a complete lenght and have never looked back. You cannot easily lube the cable, but i hardly need to. I replace the inner every 6 months or so at the cost of £1. I bought the outer from my LBS off their roll for a £few per metre, i cant remember the cost but certainly much less than flak jackets. I have these on my old bike but they let in water and were nowhere near as good ( you can lube them either.
The friction might be slightly more, but i have never had shifting problems.

stigofthedump

I ment to say you cant lube flak jackets because of the extra piece covering the formerly exposed inner cable. Hope this makes sense.

jpstar

Cool, cheers for the help guys.
Gonna go out next week and buy the extra outer and run full length.
stigofthedump Did you keep your routing the same as well? And if so, where was it?

stigofthedump

Yes
I have a 2006 Rift Zone, which looks like a White 46 rather than the later ones which look like a white E5

Marin Cable guides have nice little clips and holes in for zip ties. The cable goes under the top tube, crosses with the brake hose above the rear shock and then across the top of the swinging arm.

I had to zip tie the rear part on the swinging arm to stop the cable moving around and messing up the loop into the rear mech. This is usually achieved by the cable stops at the point where the inner is exposed.

doug@basqueMTB.com

Full length is far better. That's based on trying both. If you want to keep the routing the same then just carefully drill out your cable guides. It's really not hard to do although you do need to be careful not to accidentally drill into your frame (obviously).

ravey1981

Better to get a set of needle files and file out the cable guides than drill them. Less likely to make a mistake.

I use goodridge sealed cables on my 2006 Attack trail (similar frame to rift zone)

supersonic

Full length can be good in winter - but I try and use as little outer as I can as I find it dulls shifting (more friction, pluss slight compression of outer)

jpstar

Just a thought, I heard somewhere that running outers under the BB (where my current routing goes) can crush the outer? This true or only with some cabling?

_Ferret_

you could always run full length cables and then put in middleburn cable oilers

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... delID=3318

I ran this for many years and never needed to change the cables once...

scale20

I run a full outer on my Pace and dont have a single issue, every now and again I will pull the outer out and lightly lube it.

I cant really run full outers on my HT with the numerous cableguides, I could but it just wouldnt look right. I've found the XTR cablesets to be pretty good for keeping the water and gunk out, could be worth a try.

biff55

re jpstar ; i run full length jagwire outers on my HT , with both gear cables passing under the BB with no probs at all.
most decent quality outers are strong enough for crushing not to be an issue.

jpstar

Just had another read, it says it comes with "waterproof tubing 1700mm", is this the stuff you run over the cable where is normally bare?

biff55

yes , but not as good as full outers

jpstar

biff55 Cheers for the info, as a matter of fact Jagwire was what I was going to go buy from the LBS. How do you find the routing by the way?

ride_whenever

I find partial runs get much better shifting and look a lot neater, on my 456 the cable doesn't run straight, regardless of the length of outer. It just looks messy. With stops and a sealed gear set then you have most of the advantages of full outers, in fact i've not noticed any difference in need for maintenance. It looks neater and you get better shifting.

biff55

agee with ride_whenever in the sense that the neatness of the job will depend on the bikes frame shape and the existing cable route , however it does look completely mint when done right and safe from our lovely british climate.
and the alloy ferules in the jagwire kits are very slick 8)
give me 10 min and i'll sort some pics , i hope.

ride_whenever

I run full jagwire outers! Just cannot get them to stay in place. Might use flexible silicone sealant to hold them in place, or maybe machine some compression plugs that fill the gaps.

biff55

i played it smart and used the rubber straps of my crucatcher copy to hold the gear outers in place down the downtube.
then i wrapped my chainstay protector around the outer to the rear mech.
only one tie wrap neede for both runs.
experiencing technical difficulties trying to upload pics , feckin computers.

jpstar

What about holding it in place under the BB?

biff55

on my bike , bolted to the underside of the BB is a plastic cable guide which both cables
pass through.
i opened up the channels on the plastic guide with drill / file so there was enough room
for the outers to pass through completely
the outer to the front mech stopped at this point ( with a ferrule fitted on end ) and the last few inches to the mech was bare cable.
the outer to the rear mech continued along frame to rear of bike.
hard to explain without pics but hope u get the drift.
works well but final fitting will be different on every bike.

biff55

ps; tie-wraps and plastic cable guides ( from halfords etc ) are your best friend for this
job.

jpstar

Cheers, that helps a lot. Thanks for the advice.

biff55

no probs , fidly and time consuming job though getting neat finish.
the gear shifting itself worked well first time with little faffing around ,
but getting the frame adapted to take full outers takes thought and precise work
good luck.