My Planet X Ti Road
redddraggon
Posts: 10,862
Comments
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Spec?
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whyamihere wrote:Spec?
Changing when I can afford it
Frame: Planet X Pro Road Ti (by Lynskey) in Small
Fork: EC90 SLX
Headset: Chris King Nothreadset
Wheels: Neutron Ultras
Tyres: Michelin Krylion Carbons (for the winter you see, Open Corsas in the Summer )
Shifters: Record 10spd
Deraillers: Centaur 2008
Chainset: 7900
Chain: KMC Gold
Cassette: 11-25 Centaur (2008)
Cables+Outers: Jagwire in white
Brakes: SRAM Rival
Bars: 3T Rotundo Pro (40cm)
Stem: 3T Arx Team (120mm in 6deg)
Seatpost: Easton EC70
Saddle: Fizik Arione Kium
Bartape: Fizik Dual
Pedals: Look Keo Classic
Computer: Garmin Edge 705
Need some nice new skewers, 3T seatpost,0 -
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It would look so much better with white tape / saddle.
I wanted black, but when I saw the white.....
Welcome to the Ti world of fun. You'll love it.0 -
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Lagavulin wrote:Ditched your Centaur cages?
Over the summer I decided to not use my Nero Corsa as the geometry was dodgy, so I put quite a few bits on my ribble, Wheels/Chorus shifters/cages/pedals, when I came to build up this latest bike I just forgot about the Centaur cages - I'll probably put them back on, unless I find a good deal on some Carbon Elite Pataos.0 -
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Nice bike man. Not diggin the tape though. Just looks like really old worn black tape to me. When you put your Thoork on, change the tape to white too or even just plain black. Will finish off a sweet bike nicely.
And isn't that an Easton seatpost not a Thomson :? ??0 -
its the same darn photo everytime, regardless.
and the same gopping rug0 -
Love to know where you got the FSA Gossamer chainset from- looks spookily like a Dura Ace one to me.0
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I find my Thoork fine! Which surprises me somewhat...0
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Ariones FTW. Probably get a carbon braided one eventually.
I can ride the Thoork, it just doesn't meet the Arione's Awesomeness. I'm not that fussy when it comes to saddles TBH, but I prefer quite dense padding like the Arione has, rather a hard saddle or low density padding like the Thoork (it compresses straight away and then the saddle is basically hard), because then I go numb over rough terrain.
I'm not all that fussy about saddle shape. I can ride anything ('cept over really bumpy stuff)/0 -
I am really pleased with my Arione, it has replaced a full carbon Aliante...
But that said, Aliantes are ace too!0 -
I like the DA/Campag combo. Are you going to get all smug when Lynskey stop supplying Planet X?!0
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redddraggon wrote:Spacers under the stem are also overrated.
But not over the stem, obviously...0 -
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greasedscotsman wrote:redddraggon wrote:Spacers under the stem are also overrated.
But not over the stem, obviously...
Actually it's a manufacturers requirement to have a 10mm spacer on top the stem.0 -
redddraggon wrote:greasedscotsman wrote:redddraggon wrote:Spacers under the stem are also overrated.
But not over the stem, obviously...
Actually it's a manufacturers requirement to have a 10mm spacer on top the stem.
Why?0 -
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redddraggon wrote:To protect the steerer from unnecessary damage by clamping if over the edge, which would happen if it was cut for no spacers above the stem.
Don't really get that. I think if you overtighten a stem your going to damage the steerer tube regardless of it's length. I'm sure those Easton engineers/lawyers know there stuff. But then I don't have one of their forks and usually leave a spacer above the stem in case I want to move the bars up...0 -
I can't see it being a problem either.
Anyhoo, the shop cut mine for height like that when I first got it so I have come back with them if there's a problem in future.
Plus it looks wrong..0 -
You have to remember what I do
If you clamp right on the end of the tube, there is less of contact area, so the stress applied to the steerer will be greater.
If correctly torqued it shouldn't have that much of issue. I just like the security of knowing that I've covered all bases.
Structural integrity comes before looks for me :twisted:0 -
PS Alex, AFAIK your 3T funda on your S2 has an alloy inserted bonded into the top of the steerer where the stem clamps, so the spacer above the stem is not really necessary in that case (unless the manufacturer stipulates this, as it it's be silly to say bye bye to your warrantly)0
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redddraggon wrote:You have to remember what I do
If you clamp right on the end of the tube, there is less of contact area, so the stress applied to the steerer will be greater.
If correctly torqued it shouldn't have that much of issue. I just like the security of knowing that I've covered all bases.
Structural integrity comes before looks for me :twisted:
I know what you do. You don't have to be a materials scientist to understand the principle, it's common sense. However, there is a certain level you'd have to go to to crush the steerer and the stem is clamped no where near that level.
I also know what my trusted mechanic in my LBS does. I trust him.0 -
redddraggon wrote:You have to remember what I do
Do you design mankinis?0 -
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Does Lynksey still supply the Ti frames at PX, or has it changed. Im was looking at buying a BMC pro next year by picking up a 2009 or 10 model for around the £800 mark, but have fancied a Ti frame for a bit.
I know Nap has/had a Litespeed, bit too pricey for me at the mo althoughI would upgrade if I liked. I have a Scott CR1 Pro and love it.
What are the pro's of Ti above carbon?
Would I be foolish to buy another Carbon frame or am I missing out on a really special ride with Ti frames?
Does anyone know what the quality of the PX frames are like?
Scott Scale Comp 29er - Training Machine
Giant XTC 29er - Race Machine0
