Washing a Waterproof Jacket
DanielCoffey
Posts: 142
I have just got off the phone with the Customer Services of Gore-Tex to clarify a point with the care instructions on my new Oxygen IV jacket which it may be useful to share.
This advice applies to ANY waterproof jacket, not just Gore-Tex.
While both the label and web site clearly state no chlorine bleaches (fades the colour and eats the middle Gore-Tex layer) and no fabric conditioner (clogs up the breathability), they forgot to mention the last restriction... NON-BIO powders/liquids ONLY.
The enzymes in biological powders will eat the coating on the surface layer, reducing its ability to make the water bead and run off, thus leading to "wet out". Yes, you can restore it by re-applying a topical (spray-on) Gore-tex product bought from outdoor shops, but using the non-bio powder will help prolong its life as will the occasional warm tumble-dry which slightly melts the remaining coating and helps redistribute it within the outer layer.
They advise against using the "in wash" waterproofers as they too will clog up the breathability just like a conditioner.
So there you have it, folks - from the horse's mouth. Non-bio, non-bleach, non-conditioner powders/liquids for your waterproofs.
This advice applies to ANY waterproof jacket, not just Gore-Tex.
While both the label and web site clearly state no chlorine bleaches (fades the colour and eats the middle Gore-Tex layer) and no fabric conditioner (clogs up the breathability), they forgot to mention the last restriction... NON-BIO powders/liquids ONLY.
The enzymes in biological powders will eat the coating on the surface layer, reducing its ability to make the water bead and run off, thus leading to "wet out". Yes, you can restore it by re-applying a topical (spray-on) Gore-tex product bought from outdoor shops, but using the non-bio powder will help prolong its life as will the occasional warm tumble-dry which slightly melts the remaining coating and helps redistribute it within the outer layer.
They advise against using the "in wash" waterproofers as they too will clog up the breathability just like a conditioner.
So there you have it, folks - from the horse's mouth. Non-bio, non-bleach, non-conditioner powders/liquids for your waterproofs.
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Comments
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very true, but note that if you get the grangers xt spray on proofing, (It might go for other manufacturers, Im not sure), if you just spray it on, let it dry and then go out, it will NOT be waterproof.
You need to either iron it on a really low heat, or tumbledry it on low to actually activate the proof on the garment.
rule of thumb, if you re-treat your garment, make sure there is no powder residue in the machine, no bios, and give the fabric a bit of heat at the end of it all.FCN 11. When you hear the buzz of the nobblies, you know youve been scalped.0 -
Wash with soap flakes - no detergent at all.0
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I use non-bio with all my lyca anyway. 30 degree delicate cycle.0
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Washed my jacket with water only, no soap.I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.0
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I use non -bio, but it does have detergents. Play it safe with soap flakes for the waterproof kit.0
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Trail did an experiment with the Uni of Leeds a couple of years ago and the best routine they came up with is washing with soap flakes (any conventional powders have wetting agents that will work against the DWR coating) then treating with Comfort Pure conditioner.
The conditioner was more effective than wash in or spray on waterproofing treatments!
One really common misapprehension with most 'waterproof membrane' materials is that they stop being waterproof really quickly. Generally they don't - either the seams fail or more often the DWR treatment becomes ineffective so the jacket 'wets out' which means it will really struggle to breathe.
If your jacket does not bead up when hit by droplets it needs re treating with DWR (or comfort!) and heating in a tumble drier.0 -
I have an Altura Dalby jacket must be nearly 10 years old and still pretty waterproof. Seams leak a little from age, and from experience rucsacs kill the fabrics by abrasion and stretch the seams.
I have always found that just a good hot shower for me and the jacket after the ride is enough0 -
Haven't done my cycling jacket but once a year or so I do my Goretex jacket I use out on the hills:
Clean out your washing machine's soap tray and run a rinse cycle with nothing in the machine, to clear out any detergent traces.
Wash your jacket at 40 degrees using Granger's Extreme Cleaner (pure soap liquid).
Wash it again using Granger's Extreme Wash-In Reproofer
Tumble dry on low heat for ~60 mins / until dry (the heat "activates" the reproofer).0 -
Gutted I didn't know this a month ago.
My previously amazingly waterproof Gore Alp X jacket is now pretty rubbish (despite ironing it with a warm iron and all those recommended things to re-invigorate the waterproofing etc).
I have re-sprayed it with Nik Wax and it's still only vaguely waterproof. I had damp shoulders and arms after an hour's ride - and it's not sweat as on a recent occasion I was pootling with a colleague into town & was v.wet and cold.
Let us know if yours is still waterproof afterwards!! TBH if I buy a Gore jacket again I wouldn't risk washing it - I'd just wipe the inside with a soapy cloth or similar.0 -
a) I don't wash my jacket because I like the grubby off-yellow colour that it has gone
b) Recent downpours have cleaned off the worst of the road dirt0 -
Rain is the best cleaner. All you will need...Commute: Langster -Singlecross - Brompton S2-LX
Road: 95 Trek 5500 -Look 695 Aerolight eTap - Boardman TTe eTap
Offroad: Pace RC200 - Dawes Kickback 2 tandem - Tricross - Boardman CXR9.8 - Ridley x-fire0 -