Shimano Alfine Disc Hub.

scale20

I plan on starting the new year with a new build. I've got plans for a rigid HT build and I'm usure whether to go for the conventional cassette and mech or go for the Shimano Alfine Disc Hub.

I've been reading reviews on the Hub and most people seem to like it however with a few 'but's' thrown in. I think its the low maintanence bit everyone likes, also apparently they can be a bugger to get the wheel back on the bike after a flat.

Anyone here use one or plan on getting one? I'd like to hear your views

nicklouse

I imagine the disc version will be easier than the coaster braked version.

Which can be a pain.

bomberesque

I use one for road riding, mostly commuting, and have put about 4000k into mine this year. it's been flawless

it's as easy / difficult as putting on a singlespeed wheel after a flat, aside from attaching the shift cable, which takes some practice to get the knack. I find the mudguards more of a pain tbh

Low maintenance is a definite plus, I change the shifter cable about every 6 months and oil the chain about every 2-3. Aside from that it just works. I have read that you can strip them, clean off the factory applied grease and replace it with oil and they will run even more smoothly. I may be tempted to try this as I just ordered a spare one for touring (36 spoke rather than the 24 spoke I have atm)

also, if on a budget, I've noticed that the "premium" edition Nexus is a lot cheaper than the alfine (200 vs 270 euros for a 36 spoke 700c wheel) and I am told the only difference is a roller clutch in the Alfine. I'll know in a week or so as the new one I've ordered is the Nexus.

ride_whenever

You'll want a frame with horizontal dropouts or track fork ends, probably the latter as it makes the caliper mounting a bit easier. Ideally you want the caliper to sit between the chain- and seat- stays.

Then it's a piece of pie, drop the chain off, undo bolts/qr and the toggle chain and pull wheel out the back of frame.

If you don't have the caliper there then you end up having to remove it. As for punctures, run the wheel tubeless!

Let's just say i work in a bike shop where we deal with a lot of hub gears/brakes as it's kindof our niche, and they really aren't as bad as everyone makes out, except the coaster brake ones which define evil!

Personally i'd run it tubeless though, just for convenience.

ride_whenever

bear in mind, with rigids, the weight distribution is going to be pretty weird, look for a long toptubed frame and run an inline post to counteract this a little.

bomberesque

My cotic road rat has track ends and rear mounted disc (above the seatstay) and the wheel comes off fine. I can see how it might snag though, if the adapter were too far back, but then I'd say the frame design has something to answer for. You have to disconnect the shifter cable aswell to remove the wheel, which is a bit fiddly (read; f&*king frustrating) the first few times but once you have the knack it's as easy as a powerlink

interesting point about the coaster brake Nick, I was considering changing to one if only because the discs attract attention. Not that I've had puncture issues though. Schwalbe touring tyres to the rescue!

+1 for tubeless though

scale20

Im looking at running it on a Cotic Soul frame. Been told they have a slightly longer top tube?

I already have some tubeless ready rims to put the hub so will probably take your advice there.

I will be using the bike as my local wild trail blaster, no mental trail centre rock gardens and things just farm tracks and gentle single flowing singletrack.

bomberesque

you will need a chain tensioner (or maybe an excentriker) if running it with a Soul frame. If you've not bought the frame yet, how about a Cotic Simple?

I tested a mate's Soul out and found it too long, so I sold it ... to the devil (sorry)

I think they're a bit on the long side, but not super long

with a rigid steel fork, I doubt the weight distribution will feel too bad, but it could be an issue. The hub weighs 1.5kg.....

scale20

Cheers, I will look at the simple. I plan on running it with Carbon rigids. I didn't realise the hub weighed that much, must have missed that when reading up.

Ive not bought the frame just yet, its one hell of a gamble buying a frame with not being able to try it on for size. Im going to look at this over the next couple of months to try and get it right.

bomberesque

for the weight; a normal hub is 3-400 plus the cassette so say 700 all in. so it's 800ish gr heavier than that, but ofc you also dump the deurallier front and rear plus 2 chainrings. Still, it's all up heavier than and XT rig I suppose and all centred on the rear hub. That said I ran into a couple riding Rollhoff'd Nikolais in Wales earlier on this year (the rollhoff is 2kg...) and they claimed that the change in balance is a bit of a myth, but that's just their opinion. ofc, makes no difference really on my road bike.

up to you with the carbon rigids but I didn't get on at all well with the ones I had (Nukeproof) and would go with steel or alloy and take the weight hit for the additional stiffness

onlyonearrow

bomberesque wrote:

you will need a chain tensioner (or maybe an excentriker) if running it with a Soul frame.

I don't know the details but I think Shimano make a chain tensioner for vertical dropouts for the Alfine hub as used on the Ridgeback Flight 04. See here...
http://www.ridgeback.co.uk/index.php?seriesID=50&show_bike=TRUE
:?

N0bodyOfTheGoat

There is an Alfine chain tensioner, along with an Alfine chainring/crankset.

You might find it is cheaper in the long run to buy a complete Alfine bike and then strip the hub gear bits off, to put onto your planned frame. For example, there is a Raleigh Pioneer Elite 2 at the Rutland Ebay store:-
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RALEIGH-METRO-ELI ... 588409c37c

I need to get ready for work, but just remembered there was a German site doing an Alfine hub gear kit including all fixings for ~190 Euros earlier in the year.