Follow the Dog - Is my bike up to it?

leon69

biff55 wrote:

put it this way , my felt cost £350 yet i know that i can wipe the floor with 99% of the
fat f*ckers on 2 grand bikes on the hill climbs .
.

Being what some may call a "fat fucker on a 2k bike " can i ask after you "wipe the floor on the hill climbs " you dont seem to mension Ht's have to slow down going down hill so you guys dont bounce round like a pin ball in the ruff !

Horse's for course 's biff55 all bikes have good pionts and bad one's too no need to insult what could be a large number of MTB's


(I have a HT and a FS before you jump on that wagon )

daviebroon

Glad i found this post. I've just bought a Hardrock Pro 2010 for my 1st beginners mountain bike. I'm usually quite good at hitting things hard, and was concerned the hardrock wouldn't be up to it. Its not exactly an expensive bike, or by far a top of the range bit of kit... but glad it seems to be good enough for a hammering. As said, its my 1st 'decent' bike... and keen to get over to Llandegla asap.

skullthaw

haha the breaking bumps i love them i nursed a guy round once and warned him about the bumps only to go back and see him on the ground poor bugger was on his back having gone over the bars :twisted:

Matt N

You'll be fine on it, no problem, i've done it many a time on a 400 quid bike and my bro used to do it with a 250 quid bike - that thing took some punishment!

Alex

Bottom line: You can ride FTD on a ROAD BIKE.

As for the chainslapper, enjoy it whilst it's there as it'll soon be rotivated.

butcher of bakersfield

rockhop2010 wrote:

Secondly, this course gives your bike a right hammering, as a novice I have no idea whether my relatively low budget low entry bike is up to this sort of treatment. I have already buckled a wheel (appreciate this probably par for the course) and after the "Chainslapper" have now developed all sorts of clicks and rattles.

Realistically, a bike of that caliber will stand up to pretty much any terrain you decide to give it. When I was a wee lad I used to bomb down the woods on a cheap and nasty Emmelle before I ever knew what downhill was. I rode that bike on and off until I was in my 20s when a mate handed me a battered old GT to ease his own embarresment of me riding with him. That bike took loads of abuse, and was great fun. The current bikes around today, are lightyears ahead of that.

Buckled wheels are more often a product of falls or dropping the bike when they take impact from the side. A while back, having completely lost control down a short, sharp and very bumpy decent, I ploughed straight into a huge rock head on. Was catapulted over the handlebars with all the weight going into the rock and landed on my face leaving me with a nice black eye. The front end of the bike, wheel and fork were absolutely fine. The back wheel, which took no impact other than the bike flipping over after I fell, was screwed.

trekmtb1081

I follow the dog on my Trek 6000.

It has standard bontrager tyres on and to be honest dont have any where near the amount of tread my old Maxxis tyres used to have.

I actualy find the Bontrager's better! Less resistance and better in corners!

My mate has the same bike as you and he LOVES it!

Good luck, you will enjoy.

trekmtb1081

Alex wrote:

Bottom line: You can ride FTD on a ROAD BIKE.

As for the chainslapper, enjoy it whilst it's there as it'll soon be rotivated.

What? Rotivated? How come?

Kiblams

trekmtb1081 wrote:

Alex wrote:

Bottom line: You can ride FTD on a ROAD BIKE.

As for the chainslapper, enjoy it whilst it's there as it'll soon be rotivated.

What? Rotivated? How come?

Phase 2 bypasses the chainslapper when it opens in spring But it should be twice as long and much more tehnical from what I read