Saddle to Bar Drop? Help

nax-ian
nax-ian Posts: 209
edited November 2009 in Road beginners
I was feelin pleased with my set up, until I started lookin at other peoples bikes.
Most of them don't seem to have much difference in saddle height compared to bar height.
I changed my post so I could safely get that extra bit of leg extension, an I changed the stem (120 to a 100) so I wouldn't feel like I was "reachin" too much for the bars.
Now I've got this 5-6 inch height difference from saddle to bars.
An now I'm kinda fearin the worst that I shoulda gone for a larger frame size!! Damnit!!
What to do?
Am I gonna start gettin back problems from reachin too far down?
Advice anyone please.
Finished

Comments

  • softlad
    softlad Posts: 3,513
    there is no right or wrong answer to finding a position, because everyone is different. Nobody can tell you if you will get back problems, because nobody else has your back....

    Try it. If it works and you are comfortable, then that is all that matters....
  • softlad,

    Your point is valid. However, it's worth saying that 5-6" of drop is a very aggressive position by anyone's standards. If you do find it too much, you can pull tricks using large-angle stems.
  • 5-6in, 12.5 to 15cm is a huge amount of drop really. It's all relative though, if you are 6'5" it's probably not that much, but if you are only 5'8" it's huge.

    I'm 5'8" and my 10cm drop is considered huge by some of my friends.
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  • flasher
    flasher Posts: 1,734
    I think a big drop looks a lot racier, wish my back could handle it :cry:

    However as previously mentioned only you can tell............
  • a_n_t
    a_n_t Posts: 2,011
    Does it feel ok? then it's ok :)

    Never measured mine but it's pretty aggressive but really comfy, i might drop the stem more next season.



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  • Pross
    Pross Posts: 43,485
    Mine is about 10cm but I tend to ride mainly on the tops or hoods, hardly ever use the drops.
  • crankycrank
    crankycrank Posts: 1,830
    As other have said you have a larger than average drop but that doesn't mean it's wrong, it may be perfect for you. What has worked for me is to go for longer rides, 2+ hours, and try not to concentrate too much on your position. After awhile your body will tell you if it's wrong. Things like a sore back, cramped shoulders, feeling as though your unnaturally stretching your reach or scrunched up, or just feeling awkward, etc. will give an indication of adjustments needed. Make your adjustments for the return ride home and notice if it feels better. Since you may not know what your perfect setup is yet don't be afraid to experiment with tiny or drastic changes. I've seen all kinds of weird setups by people who do massive miles so don't be put off by the fact that yours may look unusual. It took me a few years of trying different stems, handlebar shapes and widths, saddles, cleat postiions and adjustments to get it right so patience can help.
  • John.T
    John.T Posts: 3,698
    If your reach is right with a 100mm stem then a bigger frame would have needed an even shorter one as it would have been longer too. How much spacer do you have under the stem and are there any above that could be moved up. Can the stem be 'flipped' to provide a higher bar position.
    You say you changed the post to get better leg extension. Is the saddle the correct distance behind the BB. Aprox knee notch over pedal spindle with crank at 3 o'clock. If you are too far back and have changed the stem to get better reach then the frame may be too small.
    An average (about a 56cm C to T frame) horizontal top tube bike would have about 15cm of seat post (to the saddle rails) showing and 4 to 5cm of spacers under the stem. This would give quite a 'racy' position. You should use no more than 5cm of spacers so if you need extra height at the bars you should flip the stem or get one with more rise. These figures are very aproximate and there will be a lot of variation out there but they are in the ball park.
  • nax-ian
    nax-ian Posts: 209
    Thanks guys I,ll continue this tomorrow when I can see what I'm doin an after I've been for a ride
    Finished
  • nax-ian
    nax-ian Posts: 209
    Further to yesterdays posts.
    I've got 26cms of post showing an 3.5cms of spacers under the stem plus a tiny one on top under the top cap.
    I'm happy with my leg extension an the knee notch, pedal axle- thing is spot on.
    The stems only a 6 degree rise , so maybe I should be lookin at an adjustable job.
    John T any more thoughts?
    Finished
  • John.T
    John.T Posts: 3,698
    Is that with a horizontal top tube frame. If so you have a lot of seat post out so the frame may be too small. But you say you fitted a shorter stem as you felt too streched out. A 100mm one is on the shorter side for a road bike so a larger frame would make matters worse there. Do you favour a short riding position or do you have long legs in realation to your body and arms. Both these would make getting a good setup difficult and if so I can only recomend a proper bike fit. You can only go so far on here. A side on photo of you riding may help. and also one of the bike. As square on as possible.
  • nax-ian
    nax-ian Posts: 209
    J T your quick int yer!
    Sloping top tube, so called compact geometry, 58cm frame. An I guess I do have long legs in relation to my torso, but i'd say my arms are in proportion, i.e. I'm not gibbon-like.
    No pics of this bike atm.
    Cheers geezer
    Finished
  • John.T
    John.T Posts: 3,698
    Just happened to be on here.
    If your frame is a 58cm compact measured to the top of the seat post clamp then you must be fairly tall as this would equate to about a 62cm in a horizontal TT frame.
    Right. If you imagine a virtual horizontal top tube and then add the width of your seat clamp above it how much post is above this point. If much more than about 15cm then you do have a problem and should get some hands on advice if you are not comfortable. If you are however does it really matter.
  • John,

    Your geometry isn't quite right. A larger frame (e.g. longer top tube) might be more appropriate and not necessarily need a short stem. The critical thing is the distance from hips (e.g. saddle) to bars. This should stay roughly constant, thus lay on a circle. If your drop goes down, because your head tube has got longer, then the horizontal distance from bars to saddle goes up, because it lies on that circle.

    Regards,
  • Nuggs
    Nuggs Posts: 1,804
    5-6in, 12.5 to 15cm is a huge amount of drop really. It's all relative though, if you are 6'5" it's probably not that much, but if you are only 5'8" it's huge.

    I'm 5'8" and my 10cm drop is considered huge by some of my friends.
    I'm 6'5" and my saddle to bar drop is huge!
  • nax-ian
    nax-ian Posts: 209
    nuggs man, can you measure your drop.
    An how long have you been ridin with this set up? Do you do long rides, say over 3 hours?
    Any back problems?

    Cheers
    Finished
  • Nuggs
    Nuggs Posts: 1,804
    Nax-ian wrote:
    nuggs man, can you measure your drop.
    An how long have you been ridin with this set up? Do you do long rides, say over 3 hours?
    Any back problems?

    Cheers
    Sure - I'll get the tape measure out tonight. I'm reckoning it will be over 5" though.

    I've been riding with that set up for over two years, I regularly do rides over 3 hours.

    I have a wealth of back problems but none caused or aggravated by cycling (in fact, a few hours on the bike does my back a world of good).
  • Bhima
    Bhima Posts: 2,145
    I'm 180cm and have a drop of 32cm (to the drops, which i'm always on). Quite big, although it feels comfy. I've seen a fixed gear bike with a 38cm drop before.
  • I just picked up a bargain Carrera Vanquish in Small, and have been wondering whether a medium would have been better until I found that the frame is an eqivalent 52cm, and their M size is 56cm equivalent, so being in between sizes it's gonna be best to be on the smaller size.
    The competitive cyclist guide was useful, I re-entered my sizes yesterday(did them alone first time...) after getting the g/f to help with the more tricky measurements. The sizes on the bike have come out EXACTLY the same except 2 , the saddle setback should be about 7cm, to achieve this the seat is as far back as it will go and only is 6cm (maybe a Thomson setback post would be worth getting?), and the one I was most concerned about is the stem length/angle, currently 90mm flipped to give more rise -the vertical distance between seat and top of bars is 65mm- this seems huge at the moment to a porky git like me, but I've ordered a 100mm Ritchey adjustable stem so will start high and see how low I can get it to remain comfortable. Some of the sizes between seat and bars are just incredible on some bikes I've seen. I'm only 5'7" but have a 33" inside leg and my arm span is 2" greater than my height. A long-legged ape-armed dwarf.... must have a stumpy torso eh? :shock:
  • teagar
    teagar Posts: 2,100
    Depends on how you like to have your arms too.

    My saddle is barely higher than my handlebars but my back is flatter and more parallell to the ground than most.

    Probably because I always have my arms quite bent compared to most (though not elbows sticking out like a particular aussie in a rainbow jersey...)...
    Note: the above post is an opinion and not fact. It might be a lie.
  • rake
    rake Posts: 3,204
    edited March 2010
  • GavH
    GavH Posts: 933
    a_n_t wrote:
    Does it feel ok? then it's ok :)

    Never measured mine but it's pretty aggressive but really comfy, i might drop the stem more next season.



    mortx.jpg

    a_n_t, what are those bars, they look mega-comfy!?
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,666
    This is comfy.

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  • a_n_t
    a_n_t Posts: 2,011
    GavH wrote:
    a_n_t, what are those bars, they look mega-comfy!?


    dunno, unbranded carbon ones off ebay - they look very similar to k-swords, probably OEM ones without the stickers!

    12421.jpg
    Manchester wheelers

    PB's
    10m 20:21 2014
    25m 53:18 20:13
    50m 1:57:12 2013
    100m Yeah right.