Converting this to SS? - A small progression!
Johnny Napalm
Posts: 1,458
Hello.
I have two of these bikes (almost), and my mate is wanting one to maybe covert to a singlespeed.
I still have the frame, crankset, pedals, wheels, handlebars, brakes but no front or rear mechs, or shifters. I understand that you can buy the conversion kits (DMR etc.), but would he need to buy a new crankset?
If he purchases the 16T DMR kit, I understand that he will need something like a 32T chainweel up front?
I have two of these bikes (almost), and my mate is wanting one to maybe covert to a singlespeed.
I still have the frame, crankset, pedals, wheels, handlebars, brakes but no front or rear mechs, or shifters. I understand that you can buy the conversion kits (DMR etc.), but would he need to buy a new crankset?
If he purchases the 16T DMR kit, I understand that he will need something like a 32T chainweel up front?
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Comments
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maybe. are the rings removable.
if not then yes you will need a different set of cranks."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
what's the middle ring at the moment?
Even if they're not removable (and squinting at the photo it looks like they are) there's nothing to stop you leaving the rings on there and just using the middle one (they're often 32, but if it's 34 than just tell you mate to MTFU, it'll put hairs on his chest to run slightly higher gearing.) The only thing might be if the chain catches on the big ring shifting ramps I guess but some judicious mucking around with the spacers that DMR give you with their conversion kit should sort that out. Looks *much* neater with a bashguard instead of the big ring though
and you can use your existing chain, just shorten it. In fact the DMR kit that I bought wasn't compatible with a full width SS chain (1/8"). 3/32 (5-8sp, "BMX racing chain") or (can't remember the width) 9sp chain worked fine thoughEverything in moderation ... except beer
Beer in moderation ... is a waste of beer
If riding an XC race bike is like touching the trail,
then riding a rigid singlespeed is like licking it
... or being punched by it, depending on the day0 -
Thanks, guys.
The crankset is an old Truvative 5D and the middle ting is 32T. What's the usual route...remove the small chain-ring?0 -
Yup remove the small and big ring. You'll need some shorter chainring bolts, or carefully file the ones you have down a little.0
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remove the small ring, this doesn't affect the middle/big. You'll need to take the crank off to do this. There's nothing to stop you just leaving it on there, if you don't want the faff / don't have the tools to take the crank off.
For the big ring, the shorter bolts are needed if you remover the big ring leaving only the middle so you have 3 choices there;
1. As badger says; remove the big ring, get shorter bolts or file the ones you have down (or get the right washers, scour your local DIY)
2. Leave the big ring on there
3. Replace the big ring with a 32T sized bash
neatest option is 3 IMO, provides protection while increasing clearance and looks tidy.Everything in moderation ... except beer
Beer in moderation ... is a waste of beer
If riding an XC race bike is like touching the trail,
then riding a rigid singlespeed is like licking it
... or being punched by it, depending on the day0 -
Thanks for the help. We'll have a look this weekend. I do like the idea of just leaving the middle ring and replacing the big ring with a 32T bashguard, as I would imagine that it would be much more tidy.
If the DMR conversion kit with tension seeker was used, would the QR skewer need replacing with a nuttted-type? Or, are qr fine as long as they are tightened securely?0 -
QR is fine because your dropout is vertical it can't really pop out (OK, it can, but it really almost certainly won't) On a horizontal drop out, where the axle can slip, a bolt through is one option, but a tugnut also does the job.Everything in moderation ... except beer
Beer in moderation ... is a waste of beer
If riding an XC race bike is like touching the trail,
then riding a rigid singlespeed is like licking it
... or being punched by it, depending on the day0 -
Phase I complete!
I've taken the inner and outer chainrings off, but I can see what you mean about shorter chainring bolts. I'll see about filing the bolts nuts down/including spacer washers, but if I buy some will I need 'outer ring -narrow'.0 -
you need the 6.5mm versions."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Thanks, Nick.
The ones I have are approx. 10.8mm with the nuts, so I'll look for some shorter ones.0 -
Got the DMR conversion kit, and fitted it. I've taken the small chainring off, but had to leave the big one on until I get some shorter bolts. When I get the shorter bolts, do I just remove the large chainring and leave the 32T chainring in the middle, or do put the 32T ring where the large one was?
I've also managed to find my old Avid Jiucy 5's and fitted the rear brake (need pads for front). The Judy's will probably have to go because they are 5 year old and been sat in the garage doing nothing, that said, they've hardly ever been ridden. I have got some spare Tora 302's that I can replace them with should I need to. The more I play with this, the more I may keep it! :twisted:
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basically yes. as you will keep the best chain line."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Once again...thanks, Nick.
I've ordered myself some shorter single ring bolts, so I can then take off the big 'un!
Cheers0