Advice on fitting integrated FSA headset

grahamcp
grahamcp Posts: 323
edited October 2009 in Workshop
Having embarked on my first ever self-build, I'm looking for a little bit of advice on headset fitting. I have changed stems before (star-fangled nut), but never put together from scratch. My frameset is a bmc pro machine which has integrated cups. The frameset came with an FSA headset, all the bits and pieces are shown in the following pic:-

http://i633.photobucket.com/albums/uu52 ... eadset.jpg

I'm guessing that the parts marked A go onto the steerer first. Do I simply squeeze the ring with the split onto the base of the steerer where it meets the fork by hand (it would be a fairly tight fit at the very bottom). then press on the other bit?

Parts B, C and D I'm OK with (assuming B just gets placed into the top cup).

Parts 1 and 2 must go in a particular direction, so that 1 expands. Is there a technique to make sure the first bit (1) doesn't drop all the way down the fork? Will that be easier when I pull everything together through the top tube? And have I got 3-6 in the right order? I wasn't sure about the larger washer (3).

Cheers,
Graham.

Comments

  • markos1963
    markos1963 Posts: 3,724
    I think its the other way around, the split ring on my FSA headset is at the top of the steerer. Part B is shown upside down in the picture, the washer type thing is flipped over and sits on the forks crown and then the bearing sits on top of it(on my one it is)
  • grahamcp
    grahamcp Posts: 323
    hmmm, interesting. Of course, either A or B is upside down - I had assumed it was A. I think it would be harder to get the ring without the split down onto the base of the steerer.

    Should I be using a special tool to fit the lower set?
  • whyamihere
    whyamihere Posts: 7,717
    In theory, yes. In practise, you can carefully smack it down onto the steerer using a hammer and screwdriver.

    However, as you have sealed bearings, there's no harm in slicing a slot through the ring to make it a split ring too, which makes fitting a whole lot easier.
  • B shows the crown race and lower bearing see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qd2Ym-T1FbQ at about 1' 16". It can be fitted using plastic drain pipe and a hammer. As it's aluminium I don't think a hammer and screw driver would be a good idea. You could always ask your LBS to fit it, they will have the tool and it will take a few seconds.

    The split ring in A is the compression ring which removes play between the steerer and bearing as the headset is tightened.
  • chriskempton
    chriskempton Posts: 1,245
    I had the same issue identifying which way round, but as said teh split one goes at the top. I had a go at im[provising it on, but in the end got LBS to fit the lower race. It was a very tight fit.