My Rockhopper SL :)
gustie
Posts: 118
MY Cannondale was a really nice ride but fancied disk brakes to after much debate for a nice hard tail i settled for the 2010 rockhopper SL comp tweaked it a little bit and rides really nice
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Very nice, but why the 'freeride' additions?Now that we are strong ought to bear the infirmities of the weak and not to please ourselves. ROMANS 15:10
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which bits?
the bashring? i dont use the outer ring much and have pranged it on a few rocks - so thought that would be good for that0 -
Which model is it?, comp, expert?Now that we are strong ought to bear the infirmities of the weak and not to please ourselves. ROMANS 15:10
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2nd line down comp....
fitted my budget so had to have the comp... the deore cranks were a bit flexy for my liking so i stuck on an XT in replacement i had kicking around0 -
:roll: Doh
So any chance of a spec list?Now that we are strong ought to bear the infirmities of the weak and not to please ourselves. ROMANS 15:10 -
FRAME
Specialized M4 fully manipulated alloy frame, fully butted, ORE DT, asymmetrical seat stays, forged dropouts w/ replaceable derailleur hanger, disc only
FORK
Rock Shox Tora SLite, 100mm travel
HEADSET
1-1/8" threadless, Campy style semi-cartridge bearings
STEM
3D forged alloy, reverse 4-bolt, 7 degree rise, 31.8mm clamp
HANDLEBARS
Butted alloy riserbar, 25mm rise, 660mm wide, 8 degree back sweep, 7 degree up sweep
GRIPS
ODI X-treme Lock-On Grips (130mm)
FRONT BRAKE
Avid Juicy 3 SL hydraulic disc, alloy backed pads, 160mm G2 Clean Sweep rotor
REAR BRAKE
Avid Juicy 3 SL hydraulic disc, alloy backed pads, 160mm G2 Clean Sweep rotor
BRAKE LEVERS
Avid Juicy 3 SL
FRONT DERAILLEUR
Shimano Deore, 34.9mm clamp, top swing, bottom pull
REAR DERAILLEUR
Shimano RD-M662 SLX Shadow, long cage
SHIFTERS
Shimano SL-M531 Deore Dual release
CASSETTE
Shimano HG50, 9-speed, 11-34t
CHAIN
KMC X9 w/ reuseable Missing Link
CRANKSET
Shimano XT, Octalink Spline
CHAINRINGS
32S x 22S and saint basgring custom fitted
BOTTOM BRACKET
Shimano BB-ES25, Octalink spline, cartridge bearing, 68mm x 118mm
PEDALS
'cuda DX style flatties
RIMS
Alex RHD 26", pinned, alloy double wall, eyelets, 28h front and 32h rear
FRONT HUB
Specialized Stout, hi/low flange, double sealed, ground race, machined disc mount, 28h
REAR HUB
Specialized Stout, double sealed, ground race, machined disc mount, cassette, 32h
SPOKES
2mm (14g) stainless red nipples
FRONT TIRE
Maxxis High Roller 2.35
REAR TIRE
Maxxis High Roller 2.35
INNER TUBES
Schraeder valve
SKEWERS
Kore
SADDLE
WTB Pure V race Black
SEATPOST
Alloy two bolt, 12.5mm offset, micro adjust, 30.9mm
SEAT BINDER
Forged alloy QR, brass washer
not convinced the deore shifters are actually any good though! i am wondering how much better the XT dual release shifters would be if i swapped them.....0 -
Thanks
Are the wheels stock?Now that we are strong ought to bear the infirmities of the weak and not to please ourselves. ROMANS 15:10 -
yes mate the wheelset is stock
what on earth is ALEX rims??? never heard of those before!0 -
Now that we are strong ought to bear the infirmities of the weak and not to please ourselves. ROMANS 15:10
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liking the link HA HA
its been a while sincwe i bought a bike - my last bike had mavic rims on0 -
Mavic rims are great, Alexrims are very good, but seem to be ignored by many.
Now the long process of replacing componentry until you have a completely white bike 8) :roll:Now that we are strong ought to bear the infirmities of the weak and not to please ourselves. ROMANS 15:10 -
gustie wrote:FRAME
not convinced the deore shifters are actually any good though! i am wondering how much better the XT dual release shifters would be if i swapped them.....0 -
i seem to get a few mis-shifts with these deore ones... usually when im stamping the power down to get over bumps - not great! but the rest of the bike i like so far
@ Whytepeak @ you think its all white then ha - i removed the stock body geometry saddle - that was white too!
white stem and bars eh lol0 -
Probably because you shouldn't be "stamping the power down" and changing gear at the same time? Unless you mean it jumps when you put the power down? In which case, that will have nothing to do with the shifters - more likely the rear mech set-up or possibly a worn chain/cassette (although unlikely if they're basically new).0
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Hi
i unload the chain while shifting - been mountain biking since the early 90's and used to race too so its not that
it seems to be ok but as soon as you power down hard (without shifting with the lever) the rear mech seems to want to drop down a cog making it harder to pedal. not really ideal! the chain and cassette are new with the bike - i have checked the chain wear with a gauge too and its fine
The other thing i thought might be causing it could be a kink in the cable somewhere? maybe inside an outer out of view... i must check.....
maybe its the SLX rear mech then? these are pretty low down the range i guess??0 -
SLX kit is very good, just as good as XT in some places, and much cheaper.
Are you sure the mech is set up right? - maybe you need to fidle around with the barrel adjuster on the shifters.Now that we are strong ought to bear the infirmities of the weak and not to please ourselves. ROMANS 15:10 -
gustie wrote:Hi
i unload the chain while shifting - been mountain biking since the early 90's and used to race too so its not that
it seems to be ok but as soon as you power down hard (without shifting with the lever) the rear mech seems to want to drop down a cog making it harder to pedal. not really ideal! the chain and cassette are new with the bike - i have checked the chain wear with a gauge too and its fine
The other thing i thought might be causing it could be a kink in the cable somewhere? maybe inside an outer out of view... i must check.....
maybe its the SLX rear mech then? these are pretty low down the range i guess??
If that's the case, it'll be the mech set-up. Try undoing the cable and re-tightening in case it has stretched. Then try tweaking the cable adjustment - should solve your problems.0 -
yeah - ive had a crack at adjusting the cable tension.. i use a butchered cyclo trainer to use for a workshop stand and whipped it in there.... now... the rear mech shifts perfectly with no load on it - i need to get out and retry it now lol
the other thing i thought... could it be possible that something inside the shifter mechanism could be too tight? so there may be a delay in releasing some cable tension? was thinking maybe one of the clickers are not engaging properly inside it or something?0 -
Very unlikely the deore stuff is usually great! Like the look of your bike, does it have White bars yet? not sure that your old xt cranks will be stiffer than brand new deores, the deores would be hollowtech 2 and those xts are maybe 8, 9 years old.0
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cheers
some white deity bars would like nice eh... lol
i figured it out....... the removable mech hanger has a normal chainring bolt to hold it onto the dropout... it had worked itself loose - so i think when i was pedalling down hard it was moving about and making the mech move, in turn doing a cheeky shift when it shouldnt have... ive tightened it up and i have crisp shifts now.
anyone recommend the best threadlock to use on bike stuff??0 -
Well worked out!
Hmm, any threadlock that a bike shop sells.Now that we are strong ought to bear the infirmities of the weak and not to please ourselves. ROMANS 15:10 -
cool and thanks
had a good ride down my local woods today - one thing that bugs me.. if dog owners have to pick up thier mess... why the hell dont horse owners!! they leave MASSES of it too!!0