SRAM Red 2008 compatible BB?

top_bhoy

I'm fitting new SRAM Red 2008 to a frame and I need a bottom bracket. The frame is an English threaded 68mm bottom bracket. Not entirely clear on this but is SRAM only compatible for use using a GXP bottom bracket or is there any other type BB I could use?

Are there any BB recommendations (or what options I have) for use with SRAM Red?

Cheers

maddog 2

the GXP is the one you need. This is dissimilar to Shimano/Chris King/Acros/Hope et al as the non-driveside (NDS) bearing on the GXP has a smaller bearing internal diameter.

Any Sram GXP BB will work , and they do std and expensive ceramic versions. The std ones don't have a brilliant reputation though AFAIK. Truvativ GXP are equivalent to Sram I think, but I can't confirm this.


An alternative is to use the Hope cups with their reducers on the NDS.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=26899

which is okay - I run one on my Red c/set, but can be a tad squeek prone if not fully greased.

I'm surprised none of the aftermarket companies don't offer GXP compatible cups, as plenty of people run Sram/Truvativ c/sets these days. Superstar do one but their BBs have come in for a load of flak in the mtb world. If Hope got their act together they'd clean up.

top_bhoy

Thanks for that maddog2.

With the Hope cups and reducers, are you required to perform much more additional maintainance? I'll probably stick to one of the SRAM models though.

You're right about the lack of alternatives available for GXP given the popularity of SRAM nowadays. One reason for my question on possible alternatives.

cjw

Superstar GXP BBs are brilliant.

I got through SRAM GXP every 500 miles on th MTB. The Superstar ceramic is still going strong after 1500 miles. Only £50


http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/index.ph ... a0a1b456eb

maddog 2

the reducers are a doddle to fit but I found the BB would squeek/creak after maybe 500 miles, and a strip down and regrease was needed to stop it. This was with a ceramic BB, if that matters.

The reducers can be removed to allow you to get at the bearings and dust seal, but it is a bit fiddly. Subsequently, I decide to grind a couple of notches on one of the reducers, using the bench grinder, to allow me to get a screwdriver/punch in between them to help this process. Hope should have done this when they designed them really.