Setting the bike up

JimboM
JimboM Posts: 380
edited October 2009 in MTB beginners
Hi all

Picked up a my (new to me) bike today. Anyone got any guides/tips on how best to set saddle and bars for maximum comfort

Cheers

jim
Cannondale Synapse 105
Giant FCR3
GT Avalanche 3.0
Canyon Nerve AM 6.0

Comments

  • pmerryman
    pmerryman Posts: 236
    I think this is all in the rider. Try a few positions, tosee what suits best.
  • robertpb
    robertpb Posts: 1,866
    If you get your saddle right then the rest usually comes to you over extensive riding.

    I suggest to start with a saddle hight, inside leg measurement plus 9%, so if your inside leg is 31" the saddle ends up at 34" measured from the top of the pedal to the top of the saddle.

    Most of the time this will give you a good starting point, I'm 5' 5" with a 31" inside and I have have my saddle at 34" or within 1/2" for donkeys years.
    Now where's that "Get Out of Crash Free Card"
  • dave_hill
    dave_hill Posts: 3,877
    JimboM wrote:
    Hi all

    Picked up a my (new to me) bike today. Anyone got any guides/tips on how best to set saddle and bars for maximum comfort

    Cheers

    jim

    Did you buy it at a shop? Did they offer to help you get it set up properly?

    If not, take it back and get them to help you. But don't do it on a Saturday morning for obvious reasons.
    Give a home to a retired Greyhound. Tia Greyhound Rescue
    Help for Heroes
    JayPic
  • mac_man
    mac_man Posts: 918
    JimboM wrote:
    Hi all

    Picked up a my (new to me) bike today. Anyone got any guides/tips on how best to set saddle and bars for maximum comfort

    Cheers

    jim

    Simplest way of setting saddle height?

    Try this...

    When you are sitting on the saddle whilst stationary, place the heel of your foot onto the pedal. Your leg should be comfortably straight, or just marginally bent. This means that when you place the ball of your foot on the pedal, when riding, you get max power from your pedal action.

    Alternatively.... the saddle should be about an inch lower than the top of your hip bone ie the bit that sticks out.
    Cool, retro and sometimes downright rude MTB and cycling themed T shirts. Just MTFU.

    By day: http://www.mtfu.co.uk
  • dave_hill
    dave_hill Posts: 3,877
    mac man wrote:
    Alternatively.... the saddle should be about an inch lower than the top of your hip bone ie the bit that sticks out.

    That won't work.

    It might for you, but the OP's bike is probably different, therefore the bottom bracket will be at a different height above the floor, therefore yada yada yada....
    Give a home to a retired Greyhound. Tia Greyhound Rescue
    Help for Heroes
    JayPic
  • robertpb
    robertpb Posts: 1,866
    dave_hill wrote:
    mac man wrote:
    Alternatively.... the saddle should be about an inch lower than the top of your hip bone ie the bit that sticks out.

    That won't work.

    It might for you, but the OP's bike is probably different, therefore the bottom bracket will be at a different height above the floor, therefore yada yada yada....

    Agree there, tried it out my hip bone is 1" lower than the saddle, so if I used mac man method I'd be 2" out.
    Now where's that "Get Out of Crash Free Card"
  • mac_man
    mac_man Posts: 918
    dave_hill wrote:
    mac man wrote:
    Alternatively.... the saddle should be about an inch lower than the top of your hip bone ie the bit that sticks out.

    That won't work.

    It might for you, but the OP's bike is probably different, therefore the bottom bracket will be at a different height above the floor, therefore yada yada yada....

    My method 1 is the one I use, and was recommended to me by a local trail guide.

    The 2nd one was more of a quick 'ready reckoner'.
    Cool, retro and sometimes downright rude MTB and cycling themed T shirts. Just MTFU.

    By day: http://www.mtfu.co.uk
  • JimboM
    JimboM Posts: 380
    Thanks for the tips guys

    I had my saddle at what I thought was a good height, but all the above suggested it was too low, raised it up an inch or 2 and instantly the ride was more comfortable.

    Next I think I'll play around with tilting it up or down to see if that makes as much of a difference.

    Cheers

    Jim
    Cannondale Synapse 105
    Giant FCR3
    GT Avalanche 3.0
    Canyon Nerve AM 6.0
  • The Northern Monkey
    The Northern Monkey Posts: 19,174
    edited October 2009
    took about 3 rides to get my bike set up perfect.

    IMO geting a bike set up in a shop is pointless. Once on the trail it can feel completely different.
    oh and don't forget to set your forks and shock for rider weight/riding style. and brake lever reach. and brake/gear lever positions. etc.
  • buduk
    buduk Posts: 55
    bigbenj_08 wrote:
    oh and don't forget to set your forks and bars for rider weight/riding style. and brake lever reach. and brake/gear lever positions. etc.
    jeez got the seat set how the heck i set this for rider weight =heavy riding style =slow brake levers ok gears could do with a adjustment ??? gonna have to read this forum even more than i am now keeps me of pron sites suppose :)
  • buduk
    1st things 1st... whats the bike?!
  • buduk
    buduk Posts: 55
    bigbenj_08 wrote:
    buduk
    1st things 1st... whats the bike?!
    RH expert i'am a noob but surely seat atm will do ?
  • Just get out and ride it :wink:
  • JimboM
    JimboM Posts: 380
    Well my bikes a GT Avalanche 1.0 with RockShox J3 forks

    I weigh in at (cough) 92kg but working on that :oops: and at the moment I'm doing pretty gentle stuff mainly bridleways, paths etc

    Any tips on setting the shocks much appreciated

    Cheers

    Jim
    Cannondale Synapse 105
    Giant FCR3
    GT Avalanche 3.0
    Canyon Nerve AM 6.0
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    set the sag to what you want and the rebound so you dont get thrown off.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown