Help.....upgrade or sell?!

equinefunk

Hi, I wonder if you could help. I have a Rocky Mountain ETS-EX70 which is about 4 years old. I bought from eBay & it may be a little small for me. It is Full XTR, Hope Mono-M4 Disc Brakes, Race Face Deuce Crankset, RF BB, Hope Headset, Marzochi Bomber Forks, Fox Float RP-3....but rubbish wheels (entry shimano hubs with WTB Speed-disc rims).

Speaking to some shops they think that this bike is well past it's best. I enjoy riding (but don't love) it but as I've had a few years away from cycling haven't pushed it as best I can (due to fitness). As my fitness has improved I've started enjoying it more, but after doing the C2C on it don't know if it's the right bike for me. This is my first full suss & it might not be set up properly, all my mates ride hardtails so can't help either.

I was wondering if I should spend £200 to £300 on new wheels & keep it for a bit or try & sell it & use the money for a deposit on a new bike....

So 2 questions?

Have bikes improved massively in 4 years?
Is this bike worth anything now?

Thanks in advance

cat_with_no_tail

In theory, it sounds like it could be quite a nice bike. May benefit from a good all-round service, Forks and Shocks off to TFT and everything else off to a good LBS (If you cant just DIY of course).
Try replacing any bits that are worn or rusted (chain, chainrings, cassette).
Have you tried just servicing the hubs of those wheels? Could make a MASSIVE difference you know.
Failing that, you really dont need to spend £300 on new wheels. You can get a decent set of Crossrides for about 1/3 of that. Or buy some 2nd hand ones off here.

Of course, there is a point where the amount of work that needs to be done outweighs the actual value of the bike.

equinefunk

Thanks, bike is in good order, TF Tuned Shock, wheels have bearing & cones not sealed & they are shot....everything else is in really good condition. But it has started creaking on the low front ring....gong to look at this during the week.

I did look at the Cross Rides, but the LBS that sold them put me off. Looked at the Hope Pro2 with Stansflow, I don't have the tools to change the rear cassette so don't want to buy online. I didn't really want to buy second hand wheels though.

canada16

I had cross rides on my full suss and never had a problem.

very strong light wheels for the money.

bomberesque

^ basically what Hopscotch says

Call me cynical, but it's natural that an LBS would tell you your bike is "well past its best" as they want to sell you a new one
if the bike feels a "bit" small, you can do things with stems and seatpost offsets to adjust it slightly ... if that's enough, it's impossible to say without seeing the bike and you.

I'd get your suss overhauled and set up correctly for you and the cockpit layout (saddle/hbars) looked at by someone who knows something about it. You should get it overhauled before selling (really, not that anyone does). Then I'd have a think about what the bike is worth (half new price minus 10% for each year after the first ... or get a trade-in quote from your LBS) and decide for yourself whether you want to dump the whole thing or not. As for wheels, either the Xtrails that HS reccommends or a pair of 719s on XT with some DB spokes, you don't need to spend 300 ... 100-150 will be sufficient for a significant upgrade.

/edit as for tools. the tools to swap teh cassette out shuold be about 20 GBP. You'll save that much buying from Merlin compared to your LBS I'd say and you only have to buy them once so I suggest you get them. Cassette tool and a chainwhip

ride_whenever

I'd look to get some handbuilt wheels, and probably replace the forks on the front.

equinefunk

I agree that LBS wants to shift bikes so will push you in that direction, I know the ETS was well thought of at the time I bought it.

Just had the Shock TF Tuned. I might take it to my LBS & see if they can look at Stem etc.

Upgrading the Front Fork & wheels? What too for the fork?

Aren't you really bumping the price up to near new bike price?

junglist_matty

If you've got some money spare then go have a test ride of some new bikes and see how they feel, if they feel a lot better than what you've got then it maybe worth replacing it, but if they don't feel any better than what you've got there's no point replacing it. You can always upgrade parts, but from the spec, it looks like only things like cables and bearings could do with a change.

bomberesque

I think the bomber range is quite broad so would depend on which you have but afaik, the only problem with bombers is reliability (that is; if you get a bad one then you have a good but unreliable fork, if you get a good one then all is well) and if your's work then I would leave them as-is tbh. you could possibly save weight changing them out but it'd be expensive. If TFT overhauled them for you, I'd ask their opinion, I'm sure they'll be candid and honest with you.

equinefunk

Thanks for the advice guys....the cables are Goodridge on the Hydraulics, I think it's a decent SRAM Chain.

Been home at lunchtime & measured the frame. I think the size is the main problem. I think it's an 18" which is the middle of bottom bracket to to the top of the Seatpost. The length of the Top Tube is 500mm. I'm 6'2" & my seatpost is at the maximum, I think that this is why it feels like I'm on top of it a bit. Although the standover height feels right, but I think it might have a high bottom bracket.

Can't find the geometry for this bike

bomberesque

a medium would seem small for a 6'2" rider. I'm 5'10" and ride a medium although some NA bikes do come up very big (for example, I'd ride a Small Yeti...blimey that just gave me an image I could have done without )

at the end of the day, the length is what needs to feel right. you can get a longer seatpost (up to a point). if the bike feels excessively short though there's only so much you can do before you muck up the handling etc.

Did you suffer back pain riding it on the C2C?

cat_with_no_tail

Ah well, perhaps it is a little small for you then. As mentioned earlier, try some new bikes, get a feel for what the correct size feels like. If it's a million miles away from what you have. Go for the change.

Oh, and I also have crossrides. Wheels themselves are good enough, but Mavic support is fkn awful in my experience. You can pick up a brand new set for about £120 off Merlin and Wooly Hat Shop etc. Just buy one of these to sort out the cassette. It's a handy tool to have lying around anyway. You may also need a T25 Torx key for the rotors. Still works out cheaper than buying from shop and paying to get it all fitted.

Remember, just becase it's not all nice and shiny dosent mean its fooked, despite what your LBS might want you to think.

What length is your stem? It MIGHT improve the feel a little just by fitting a longer stem and pushing your seat further back. Of course, doing this will also affect the ride. Should at least be worth a shot though.

cat_with_no_tail

Of course, all that being said, if you are desperate to get rid, I'll give you £200 for it

joshtp

Cat With No Tail wrote:

Of course, all that being said, if you are desperate to get rid, I'll give you £200 for it

ill raise him a tenner!

equinefunk

Thanks a lot for the help.....I had those things buzzing round in my head & had looked at the stem length. Seat is quite far back already.

I don't suffer from back pain riding despite having a bad back. But I have started to get numb toes after changing my shoes over. It could be down to cleat position or where my knees are in terms of the pedals.

My arms are only slightly bent when I'm on it but I think the height of the seat post makes me feel like I'm sat on top of it, it doesn't feel that small & I don't feel cramped.

The LBS hasn't sent it's gone the journey just that bikes have moved on so much since 2005 that this will feel totally dated. Looking at the reviews this bike was getting 9/10 from most of the mags.

Might bang some Crossrides on it & see me through the winter or I need to find time & ride a couple of other new bikes. I was thinking of selling this & using it as a deposit for a new bike.

Thanks Cat with no Tail for your kind offer to take it off my hands.

equinefunk

Bomberesque that isn't a good thought about riding a small Yeti....it reminds me of a drunken night I had in the badlands of Middlesbrough. What's a female Yeti?

equinefunk

Is it worthwhile taking the Cranks, Gears, Brakes etc & put it on a new Frame & Forks?

bomberesque

equinefunk wrote:

Is it worthwhile taking the Cranks, Gears, Brakes etc & put it on a new Frame & Forks?

can be. sounds like you have pretty good kit. I'd probably renew the rear mech, just coz they tend to loosen over time and an XT today is as good as an XTR 5 years ago although if you're happy with the way it's all working then sure. I'd also change the fork. Tech there has moved on considerably.

I see where you're going; fit new wheels, see how you get on over the winter and then think about a new frame/fork in the spring. A sound plan I'd say

equinefunk

That is exactly what I was thinking, upgrade the wheels....so doing some browsing now. Are the XT hubs sealed or not?

bomberesque

XT hubs are sealed. They are cup and cone, which puts them out of step with most hubs (which tend to use cartridge bearings) but in reality this makes little difference and also makes them servicable (if you have the urge)

I have heard complaints about the freewheels failing, but have never experienced this myself. Value for performance wise I don't think you can beat XT hubs

equinefunk

thanks, my current hubs are Shimano M475 (non-series) cup & cone & have a problem with them being loose, If I tighten them they don't run smoothly the same if I over tigthen the QR skewer. When I keep them looser the wheel slightly deflects.

My other bike has Jabba the hub & they are so sweet.....
The more I think about the wheels the worse they are! I don't think I realised this until I started typing it out, I can't believe I've been spending money on other things instead of the wheels! :shock:

supersonic

Adjust them so there is a tiny bit of play. The QR will remove it when tightened.

Though the bearings and races may be shot.

equinefunk

Thanks but if they are tightened at all they rumble, the wheel is shot...basically.

Stuey01

equinefunk wrote:

Thanks but if they are tightened at all they rumble, the wheel is shot...basically.

The bearings are shot, not the wheels. they are replaceable. However, you are replacing them anyway so don't bother.

I've got a set of Fulcrum Red Metal 5's on my chameleon, an alternative option to the Mavic Crossrides. Bit lighter, same money.

equinefunk

The actual cups are pitted.....no point replacing the bearings.

equinefunk

An update...I just some Bontrager Racelite Disc wheels UST from eBay for £100, almost new. Hopefully they should fit the bill. Went out on Wednesday & decided the wheels were completely letting the bike down.

I also got measured for a Race Bike yesterday & found out I'm actually shorter than I thought I was I'm 6' rather than 6'1" but have long legs & monkey long arms. The LBS said they would size me for my Rocky Mountain & try to get it to fit better but thought that the frame size I said should be ok. But while I was there looked at the Lapierre Zesty & they look very appealing...

The Spiderman

I`m a similar size at 6ft ,with longish legs (33") and my Giant XTC is a medium.Giant used to say it was a 19" but they have since revised their sizing and now say their medium is an 18" ,which is nearer to it.

I find sizing quite tricky becuse I am on the upper end of what most manufacturers call medium but the lower end of what they call large.

Having ridden bikes that are both too big and too small,my prefence when fallling between sizes is to go for the smaller.Only issue that, I have though, is to get the proper leg extension,if I ride a medium is that I need a long seatpost and preferably one with some layback,and/or the saddle pushed back on its rails.This get your knees sitting plumb,right over the pedal axle where it is meant to be but you can end up with a bike that gets a bit light at the front on climbs.

Of all the bikes I`ve tried,the one that came nearest to fitting me the best was an Orange P7 in a 19".


Its worth reading up on bike fit,stem length changes,etc becuse all of these things can have a dramatic effect.

equinefunk

Thanks, I just think I need someone to do a bit of tinkering with the bike & it should fit.