Drying a hosed down bike properly
knave
Posts: 14
What’s the best way to dry a bike for storage after it’s been hosed down? I've been amazed sometimes at how much the rear mech, etc will hold on to water and now that winter approaches, I can see myself hosing the bike down after every outing.
I see that most people spray GT85 into the mechs, chain, etc to disperse water which I’m happy to do but does GT85 leave any form of residue? If so does the residue attract dirt/dust? If it does leave residue on the chain, will it dilute chain lube?
I’m not bothered by how long it takes, I’m happy to spend the time to do the best job. I’m even considering using a cheap hair dryer on it – does anyone or has anyone done this? Does it work?
I see that most people spray GT85 into the mechs, chain, etc to disperse water which I’m happy to do but does GT85 leave any form of residue? If so does the residue attract dirt/dust? If it does leave residue on the chain, will it dilute chain lube?
I’m not bothered by how long it takes, I’m happy to spend the time to do the best job. I’m even considering using a cheap hair dryer on it – does anyone or has anyone done this? Does it work?
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I take the chain off and clean it seperately personally. TF2 or GT85 on the mechs. They both leave a residue of light oil and PTFE, nothing to worry about.Uncompromising extremist0
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I tried the hairdryer method once. It was rubbish. It appears that a heardryer is not powerful enough to blast the water from bolt heads, mechs etc, and to dry the water would take you hours.
I just do as above, bit of GT85 works wonders. Don't use too much, and wipe off what you can when you're done.
Simples
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Hairdryer, no... But garden vacuum/blower, perfect!Uncompromising extremist0
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Pick the bike up and bang it down hard (on the wheels obviously) several times it really shakes the water put of the nooks and crannies then use a chamois leather to dryFig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap0
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Ride it round the block a couple of times is what I do.0
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why do you need to dry it out so thoroughly? it won't rust :roll:0
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i spin the chain dry through a rag, then oil, then take the bike in my nice warm house.
no problems.0 -
As above, shake the worst off. Dry the obvious bits with a old towel just to keep it looking shiny. Run the chain through a towel several times then re-lube. Don't worry about the rest of it, water evaporates naturally...0
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I dry the chain as mentioned, run it through a rag, then WD40 it right up. I use a rag for the frame and rest of the bike too.
Whilst the WD40 is working it's way into the chain I spray it on the rest of the working parts. I then wipe off the excess from the chain and everywhere else with a designated WD40 cloth (the sleeve cut off an old t-shirt!), then use the oiled up rag to wipe down the frame. This leaves it looking shiny and also helps stop dirt sticking to the frame, as it leaves a slight oily residue, making it easy to clean next time.____________________________________________________________
'09 Specialized FSRxc Comp, Powerplay Detonator pedals, DT Swiss EX 5.1d rims, Hope Pro2 hubs
'08 Kona Cowan, Sunrise Big Mammoth Fat rims, Marzocchi DJ fork, Avid BB5 brakes0 -
OK, STOP! have we not had enough things about how bad WD40 is for a bike! its a water dispersant, not a lube, it was designed in WW2 to dry out marine electronics, not to lube a bike, it atrract dust and dirt and helps form the base of an extremely effective metal grinding paste. its ok on the frame but for chain........SwanseaDan wrote:I dry the chain as mentioned, run it through a rag, then WD40 it right up. I use a rag for the frame and rest of the bike too.
Whilst the WD40 is working it's way into the chain I spray it on the rest of the working parts. I then wipe off the excess from the chain and everywhere else with a designated WD40 cloth (the sleeve cut off an old t-shirt!), then use the oiled up rag to wipe down the frame. This leaves it looking shiny and also helps stop dirt sticking to the frame, as it leaves a slight oily residue, making it easy to clean next time.
que supersonic, daz555, northwind,rideanytime.................
they will al now give you a complete earbashing.
DONT USE WD40, USE A PROPER BIKE LUBRICANT.I like bikes and stuff0 -
There is nothing wrong with using WD40 to dry your bike, i would avoid the discs obviously!
There is also nothing wrong with using WD-40 to remove excess factory grease from the outside of chains. There is nothing wrong with not lubing your chain all the time. Mine seem to run better dry in the dry and wet in the wet. Much less wear that way.0 -
I still don't understand why you'd bother drying your bike out.
Do you dry your car as well? I just wash mine (well, sometimes) and leave it to dry of it's own accord.0 -
oh, thers knowt wrong with using wd40 to dry it, just not as a lubricant, i use tf2 to help clean and dry the chain, but wipe it off befor applying proper chain lube.I like bikes and stuff0
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WD40 will act as a light lube. To fix squeeks and scrapes in some areas of your bike, just don't use it as a drive train lube. Thats not to say it won't act as a lube for a short while, but it'll just rub off a long time before your ride is over. Leaving your chain exposed with no protection.
To dry your bike? Maybe use a dry cloth? Sounds obvious. I've used a hair dryer too. Works fine.
I would wash your bike in sunny weather as it'll dry quicker
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You only need two tools: WD40 and Duck Tape.
If it doesn't move and should, use the WD40.
If it shouldn't move and does, use the tape.0 -
cgarossi wrote:Thats not to say it won't act as a lube for a short while, but it'll just rub off a long time before your ride is over. Leaving your chain exposed with no protection.
Except for the factory lube that is exceptionally thick and is rather hard to remove completely... and is in the high load areas already. A dry chain picks up less junk, and runs smoother IME. The issue comes when the mud and junk is pre-wetted, then it sticks so you need a barrier of something non-stick to try and stop it sticking.0 -
joshtp/mbukman wrote:
OK, STOP! have we not had enough things about how bad WD40 is for a bike! its a water dispersant, not a lube, it was designed in WW2 to dry out marine electronics, not to lube a bike, it atrract dust and dirt and helps form the base of an extremely effective metal grinding paste. its ok on the frame but for chain........SwanseaDan wrote:I dry the chain as mentioned, run it through a rag, then WD40 it right up. I use a rag for the frame and rest of the bike too.
Whilst the WD40 is working it's way into the chain I spray it on the rest of the working parts. I then wipe off the excess from the chain and everywhere else with a designated WD40 cloth (the sleeve cut off an old t-shirt!), then use the oiled up rag to wipe down the frame. This leaves it looking shiny and also helps stop dirt sticking to the frame, as it leaves a slight oily residue, making it easy to clean next time.
que supersonic, daz555, northwind,rideanytime.................
they will al now give you a complete earbashing.
DONT USE WD40, USE A PROPER BIKE LUBRICANT.
He didn't ask how to lube his chain, he asked how to remove the water, hence the water dispersant used. If the topic had been "Hmm, I'm querying the differing methods of drivetrain lubrication, what of it chaps?" I might have told him I use Finish Line Dry Teflon Lube in dry months and Wet Lube in wet months. As he didn't ask that, I answered his query about getting the water from his chain.
Jeez, why the hostility? No need amigo.____________________________________________________________
'09 Specialized FSRxc Comp, Powerplay Detonator pedals, DT Swiss EX 5.1d rims, Hope Pro2 hubs
'08 Kona Cowan, Sunrise Big Mammoth Fat rims, Marzocchi DJ fork, Avid BB5 brakes0 -
sorry bud, my mistake! I thought you were saying the wd40 was what you used as a chain lube, and, as you probably well know, its an awfull chain lubeI like bikes and stuff0
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Ive found the best way to dry my chain is to fit a SRAM quick link so u can take it off the bike easily then when you've un it through ur chain bath or whatever it is u use hang the clean chain hang it over the washing line for 10 mins or so until ive finished up with the rest of the bike and by that point its always dry and ready for a lube on the back on the bike.0
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I've found the best way to dry my bike to be to stick it back on the roof rack and drive the 50 or so miles home at 70mph (on the motorway, honest officer). 0
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joshtp/mbukman wrote:sorry bud, my mistake! I thought you were saying the wd40 was what you used as a chain lube, and, as you probably well know, its an awfull chain lube
No problemo dude, slap myself on the wrists for the slightly sh*tty response :?____________________________________________________________
'09 Specialized FSRxc Comp, Powerplay Detonator pedals, DT Swiss EX 5.1d rims, Hope Pro2 hubs
'08 Kona Cowan, Sunrise Big Mammoth Fat rims, Marzocchi DJ fork, Avid BB5 brakes0 -
dont worrie bud!I like bikes and stuff0
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flame thrower? giant oven?
or lick it off?0 -
Am I right in thinking that washing is going to become particularly important in the next couple of months due gritters spreading salt all over the road?0
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If you ride your mountain bike on the road then maybe that would be a concern.
It's good practice to rinse off the bike after a ride anyway imo. Each time its wet and I visit cwmcarn, the bike sounds like a broken washing machine.0 -
Northwind wrote:Hairdryer, no... But garden vacuum/blower, perfect!
Mate - you're my new bike friend!
That is an awesome idea - and I have one!
Word Up
BTW - the 'bounce dry' method is a good start.
I also have a transparent roof on my garage - it gets hot in there any time of year as long as it's reasonably bright, so usually no issues.
BUT I'll be using the leaf blower just for the hell of it!0 -
Ah well mines a bit of a work horse. Takes me to work as well as out and about to play. So it spends about half its time on the road.0
