Single up front? Sounds complicated.

biker66

Hi. More thinking about my build ( On one 456, hopefully). I would really like to run a single ring up front. I very rarely go out of the middle ring and would like to have less cable.
I thought maybe I could just replace the outer ring with a bashgaurd and take the inner off, but seems it's not that simple. Googled it and seems I'd need all kinds of chain guides etc.

So are there any good single speed cranks for mountain bikes, in a kind of XC style? Not too heavy or expensive.
Would is still be simple to fit that with a standard 9 on the rear? Or is there something else I would have to take in consideration?

nonnac85

You can take the inner and outer rings off the crankset - ok its not SS specific but it lets you try it out to see how you get on.

Barteos

As nonnac85 said the simplest route is to leave just the middle chainring and give it a go.
You definitely need some form of a chain guide otherwise the chain will come off sooner or later.
You can use a locked front derailleur for that or if you'd like to do it "properly", go for MRP 1.X Chain Device designed with 1x9 setup in mind.
I used to run 1x9 and really liked it.

nonnac85

I use this chain tensioner on my SS - works fine:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=17621

The Rookie

To resurrect this, as this is the same thing I'm thinking of for my Hybridised commuter

So I CAN run just the middle ring (well for me it would be the outer 44t moved to the middle location) with a chain guide (or locked off front mech in the short term using hi/lo screws) and still run all 9 (11-32) rear cogs?

Weight saving on mech/lever/ring would be about 430g for me (not insignificant!) less chain guide and plus cable saving, and maybe a cheap/light bashguard to pretty it up where the outer ring is missing on the crankset.

No issues with chain angles running all 9 rear from the middle ring?
For ref I have an trushift 7051 aluminium outer, that would go in the middle location and a top of the range suntour rear cassette.

Simon

albo

Yes, you may come across chain angle problems, but you have to make do, and you can set it up (with most chain guides) to lessen the problem - by moving the bottom wheel of the guide further away from the chainring.

albo.

The Rookie

Its chain angle that makes me nervous, it means I'm more likley to loose the chain, and also will increase firction and wear, and maybe offset the weight saving....anyone else anything to add?

I guess the longer the chainstay (BB centre to rear spindle) the better!

Simon

angrymeerkat

I plan on running the same setup; I don't think I've ever used either granny or big rings on my mtb anyway, so I can't see the wear being any different. Ordered a set of narrow chainring bolts, but there's no way I'm spending £40 on one of those MRP 1.x guides! A locked out mech will have to do!

The Rookie

I've looked at another option, and that is using plasticard in 1 or 1.5mm as a chain guide either side of the middle ring (using inner and outer ring mountings), would be lighter and look like a bash guard.

The wear would be if the chain angle to highest or lowest gear were too great.

Simon