Travel around Montenegro, aug 09 report photos GPS tracks

DDuka

Hi all, my name Dmitry.
I want report about our 15 days travel around Montenegro, and share photos and GPS tracks.
English is not my native language, so please dont beat me.

Montenegro 2009. Preparation

Initially, the trip to Montenegro not planned, we (me and my wife) wanted to go to Bulgaria for Belmeken. We regarded Montenegro as a spare in case of problems with visas and passports. So it happens, with receiving an invitation for the Bulgarian visa got difficulties, time was pressing and we moved on to Montenegro

We studied reports of our predecessors, found and explored further information about the country, maps, GPS tracks of our predecessors.

We scheduled to take bikes and do not take a tent. Using long ride and looking for housing on that place. Stopping at key locations for 1-2-3 nights for radial riding and walking. To save time, using the train from Bar to Moykovats.

Supposed carrying all things on our shoulders in backpacks, i decided take minimum clothing and equipment . Were taken XCSki warm-up pants and jacket, cycle clothing and shoes, helmet, T - shirt and civil shorts, sneakers, 2 digital photo-cameras (SLR with telephoto lens, and the compact as wide angle lens.) A GPS, cell phones and chargers, spare set of batteries for all. My wife took cycle clothing, also minimum daily clothing, and hygiene and medical things. For preparation our bikes, i purchased the rear and front lights, also purchased and installed half-slick tires on the wife's bike, was chosen really necessary spare parts and tools.

Dismantling the bike.
I removed both wheels, rear derailleur with a hanger and the chain, then fixed it to a vertical tube of the frame, also i rearranged pedals to inner side of crank arms. Handlebar was removed and fixed along the front wheel fork, turning its around at stem looking back. Saddle with seat post was placed inside the front triangle frame, all was fastened with plastic clamps. Between fork legs and between rears dropouts were inserted pre-made wooden cylinders.


The wooden cylinders were made from cherry dry branch 3-4 cm thick, felled in the past year. Branch was cut for size between dropouts, then was drilled on the axis and fixed in the dropouts by taken out wheel axles. I packed it all in a specially purchased soft bag and wound it by wide scotch tape, under scotch tape i placed the sheet with inscription in Serbian and Russian, "the fragile bike wheels, please carefully, thank you!".


With the bikes, in soft bag, i stuck helmets, spare parts, tools, a part of things and piercing-cutting items (knives). Most worried for me was that, if bent or broken wheel spokes. In carry-on luggage were put the electronics, money and documents.
Bicycle weigh under 14 kg., The limit of luggage 20 per person. When I took up the bag packed, I thought that it weighs 35 kg. Consoled myself with the thought that i could not cram things more than 5 kg. At the airport, it turned out that both our bags together weighs 37 kg.


I hope this report will be interesting for you, and if so, i will write further

And certainly you can ask me any questions about this trip and not only

DDuka

1 day. Domodedovo (Moscow) - Tivat, Budva, Jaz

We departed Domodedovo airport (Moscow) at 12.10 , an arrival in Tivat at 13.00 on local (-2 hour). Landing at Tivat, airplane is going by gorge, between mountains, it was fascinating impressions. The pilot was maneuvering, seems, close to the contact with strip, masts of illumination of the road, what lay nearby from airport,already was on the plane level, but the plane was still heeling hither and thither to the left and to the right, and sat down softly at the end.


planes landings between mountains

In montenegro was +32 t celsius. While waited passport control, i has decided to rinse my face, and found that water from the watertap has seemed salty, perhaps they take water from the sea and then freshen it. We passed quickly through passport control and received our luggage. On parking of police near the airport, i assembled the bicycles which were reached in luggage without damages. Left-luggage offices at Tivat airport are not present, therefore i decided to hide bags, till flying away, somewhere in roadside bushes near airport. We rode and soon i found place where could hide bags and other packing stock, then i had marked this point on GPS, and we have gone towards place Budva for lodging searches. We decided going forward till see the sea, there we will start to asking for rooms. We were in excitation and for want of habit we did not observe rooms offers.


The local guy on a background has spoilt a photo


The first steep 100м climbing, we overcame that on road from Tivat to Budva untill a tunnel. From above opens the beautiful view of the sea and not so beautiful view on beach Jaz below. After the tunnel, road has gone down to Budva, where we have found a minimarket and have bought 1.5 litres bottle of water for 1.5 euro. In consideration of a heat and speed, buying water is possible to be ruined.
As it was planned to next day to look round the Gulf of Kotor, we decided to go from Budva in the opposite direction towards Tivat and to search attentively rooms offers. We have lodged in the first bungalow offered, near to Jaz, for 10 euro from the person per night, arranged for 3 nights at once. I think, I could bargain for lower price, as subsequently i found offers with incomparably best conditions for such money. But at that moment, to begin with, the variant seemed acceptable, especially in coming twilight. We laid out our things and went to shop and then to the coast in Jaz, the sea for some reason appeared cold. I did not have any desires for to bathe that time. My wife Anyuta on the contrary, has swum for a while with pleasure.

airport of Tivat



With the Russian habit, being afraid of theft, I have decided to take bicycles "with myself in a bed". I dragged them in the room, that's why has been shamed by the house owner . Imagine – a room, 2 beds, one bed is turned on side by down (for enough space for bikes) and two bicycles. The house owner with astonishment began to ask me, whence we are , and without waiting the answer has told «here not Russia, it is possible to leave the bicycle in the street, however if you afraid, put it under my windows, I will watch it whole night », that i feel little shame . It is true, there are not theft in Montenegro, what we were convinced subsequently.



In Montenegro, seemingly, in general there is no criminality. I have explained it for myself so: the first reason is their culture and good education, in the second is small indigenous population, where one each know other folks and to steal from the friend or the neighbour it is impossible, in the third for the same reason there is no possibility of sale stolen, accordingly there is no reason to steal, if impossible to sale it. They leave cars for the night with opened windows without doubt. Security guards are not present not that in shops, they are not present likely even in jeweller salons and banks.

Statistics for 1 day:
Distance, km: 23,03
Duration: 02:08:51
Speed, km/h:
Max: 54,2;
Avr (move): 14,3;
Avr (total): 10,7
Height by GPS, m:
Min: 7
Max: 102
Total climb: 609

day track - http://www.gpsies.com/map.do?fileId=znkmmmdwfdhbtgsx

all photo - http://photofile.ru/users/dduka/9614914 ... ode=middle

DDuka

Montenegro 2009. 2 day. Tivat, around Gulf of Kotor.

In the morning i found blown off front wheel on wife's bike. Originator of a puncture – a thorn of bramble was found out. Punctured tire was fixed and we started ride towards a gulf of Kotor.

The road along coast is unpleasantly full of cars and the buses. In heat many buses going with an open lateral door, it terribly stick out from lateral surface like kind of blade edge, threatening to hit the biker on a roadside. In Tivat traffic becomes comfortable, the road is narrowed and goes near houses closely to a water edge.

traffic


Here we paused for swim and did it with pleasure, water in the gulf of Kotor seemed warm unlike sea coast in Jaz.

heat wether


The water bought yesterday has ended and there was sharply need of replenishment of stocks, greed did not allow to buy water, i thought there must be water springs or wells in mountains or settlements )). But near the road or any other shared places, water sources was not possible to find.

Eventually, in one of turns uphill, i noticed a sign a red-white circle on the wall, thought, that is the designation of tourist route (it was climb to church Gornji Stoliv) and probably there must be a water source. Had risen about 150 m, i found nothing, but had come across a small cemetery.


open crypt

Cemeteries in Montenegro differ from Russian, they not such scale. small and very well-groomed and even it is possible to tell comfortable))). Prevailing a crypts, which had inscriptions «OBITELJ» or «ВJЕCHNY DOM» (that means place of Refuge or The Eternal house). There are numerous of bas-reliefs and stone ornaments on stone walls. Separate crypts basically are not fencing. There also has been noticed one open crypt, it looks little horribly, the reason was found out later, when i examined photos.
It has appeared, on a plate death date (1931-20 …) has not been designated, that is this «the Eternal House» still expects the inhabitant. Examining this cemetery, There wasn't written the date of death and was only space for it (1931-20 …) that means «the Eternal House» still expects the inhabitant.
Exploring this cemetery, I also noticed the watertap sticking out in a distant corner. Certainly we climbed and overcame fence for taking waters and rinsing, hope, we didn't disturb rest of died inhabitants.

For lunch we stopped at the coastal small restaurant. I looked in menu and tried found familiar words – salad, soup, fish, something was ordered at the end. We got the juice, some tasty salad and chorba (soup). Then the cook brought two live huge fishes for us and asked «are these well for you?»)) certainly «Ok». Suddenly my brain has learnt to understand what is written in menu and i understood that, we would have lunch at least for 30 euros))). It appears that I ordered some fish under the price 30е for kg and our two have pulled on 0,7 kg. So as a result we given for a dinner 32 е, it was tasty, but if so further will be, money can will ended before of time.



After such lunch, it would be desirable to lie and reflect about eternal, instead of twisting pedals on heat. Rode fast around Kotor we headed on road towards Budva and our stay. There is the tunnel between Kotor and Tivat, but we didn't went through tunnel, has decided explore climbing at pass in small town Trojica at just 230 metres height. When we reached pass, our water stock again ended, it was necessary to buy water in a little shop. While we paused for rest, have noticed that locals take water in small and first glance hidden water source nearby us … hmm))).



The road to the our stay has occupied not a lot of time, certainly by descent. We come into a little shop where we left 8е more for any food and where GPS bugs so didn't add the last part of a track about 10 km.

day track http://www.gpsies.com/map.do?fileId=bfnzhcjnoinjqoju
Statistics for 2 day:
Distance, km: ~ 58,5
Duration: ~ 09:08:00
Speed, km/h:
Max: 57,7
Avr: ~ 16,3

DDuka

day 3. Cetinje, uphill and downhill by serpentine.

I waked up with violent readyness for ride to Cetinje and back... three times!

After breakfast i has thought that will be enough two times
even remembered a rhyme

It happens you wake up like bird
Like winged spring for flying ready
When want any working and effort
But by breakfast it usually ended




From start we immediately rode into steep climb towards Budva, it was sobering … once is enough! A tunnel was passed by pedestrian zone, it is really narrow, not able to ride on bike there, it is possible to walk only, and to push bike before yourself. Morning Budva wasnot crowded, silent and quietly . Little shops just opened, various smells of a breakfast issue from small beach cafes , sleepy vacationers wearily going to beach, dragging mattresses and towel and the their self red bodies. Passed through Budva we headed on way to Cetinje.

rock elefant


Further we start climbing to steep serpentine road, 17,5 km long and 900 metres altitude, which we went 3 h 40 m, with average speed of movement of 9 km/h. Once again i found water tap in house near road where we got resupply our water. Once had thought not to ride in Cetinje, and simply to climb on pass and to go down back.





Near before the pass we had paused for rest and lunch in Cafe "Lion", and had overcome remained couple km, and nevertheless had ride further, decided that the way back under descent will be much faster. Cycling on flat or descent gave great pleasure. After long steep climbing had lost sensing of a horizontal, now plain seems like gentle descent, and gentle climb like plain. Had noticed police with a radar in roadside bushes, who catch for overspeed drivers, as in Russia, only differ that in Montenegro they affably waved and greeted us.) Seemingly we didn't overspeed there)






Cetinje was pleasant and very much impressed town, silent, green, cool. Whole city represents like historical monument. Cetinje is former capital of kingdom, here located Presidental Palace, the Cetinje Monastery, where kept one of the most esteemed relics of the Christian world, Ioan Krestitel's right hand. Unfortunately, we did not have time to come in a monastery and museums, and were ashamed in cycling wear. We had wandering around the basic sights for its external survey, then headed back way.




In this way we got great exciting from descent of 900 metres altitude by serpentine road, that we overcome less than half hour for 20 km



On the day end i had feeling that i overheated from sunlight and my skin became some red. And unfortunately my GPS was bugs again so did not track last 10 km

http://www.gpsies.com/map.do?fileId=pragbqzublgfzayj
Statistics for day 3:
Distance, km: ~ 80
Duration: ~ 9:50:00 AM
Speed, km/h:
Max: 63,2;
Avr: ~ 19,0;

DDuka

Day 4. Passing to Bar.

This day started with heavy wakening. I didnt feel myself so good like yesterday and maybe was slight fever.
I thought it was acclimatization on third day plus yesterday's overheat. I didnt want any activity, but we needed go away and also didnt want stay here for next day.



After little breakfast we started away. Unexpectedly i didnt feel too weak and quite might ride.
The sun was already burning. Especially it was felt on hands which have burnt slightly yesterday. Anyuta offered me some aspirin, it was refused. In Budva i hardly patience the smells of all met small restaurants. There were numerous uphills, descents, on the coastal road. The state of health gradually worsened. I rode in mode of the autopilot, eyes see an piece of asphalt , the brain sleep, the organism twists pedals on the oblivion. Heat, I tried to drink more often, did not help, stomach doesn't soak water. Then I start to pour overself, water flows through a helmet and hair, and becomes salty. Finally I decide to eat aspirin, and chew 1 tablet. Through 10 min i feel considerable better.


On right side in sea i noticed beautiful peninsula filled with red tiling roofs - St. Stefan! but we has not any desire to go down there, just pair shots and we go further. Joyfully we ride down from the next descent and we see the sign Petrovats, it is half way to Bar.

Then from Petrovace begin long climb, we go it some kilometres. Once on the middle of climb we are overtaken by the roadbike guy who quickly leaves in a point, we envy him and damn our backpacks. At last we reached roadsign «Obshtina Bar» mean Area of Bar, also end of climbing. One pill aspirin again and five-minute rest, also we finish last water. We move from descent, then fortunately found able to get waters from watertap in another empty churchlet. We go without hurrying up, and search for housing. I noticed that becomes more the parked cars, obviously we reached town. Anyuta notices a turtle who is slowly running through the road. Risking a life, we stop to rescue it. The turtle very much is grateful to us and has agreed to be photographed.



So, we imperceptibly rode to the Bar. Despite diligence of one local man which has shown us almost all houses in town, in a private sector it was impossible to find habitation, owners do not wish to accept for one night! At last we lodged in remarkable hotel, in three-local room for 30 euros. The reception girl has called on railway station and has learnt in when the train from Bar to Moikovace goes.
Appetite has not appeared even after a shower, then I go to sleep, before having eaten still a pill of aspirin. Anyuta has gone to explore a city.


track http://www.gpsies.com/map.do?fileId=qvvixboicsusegbs
Statistics for day 4:
Distance, km: 45,5
Duration: 06:00:08
Speed, km/h:
Max: 56,4;
Avr : ~ 17,9;