fitting new avid juicy 3 pads

JamesBrckmn
JamesBrckmn Posts: 1,360
edited October 2009 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi
I need to fit new brake pads on my juicy 3's, but don't know how to.
If anyone has any tips on fitting them, it would be much appreciated.
Thanks

Comments

  • dav1
    dav1 Posts: 1,298
    what pads have you got? Fibrax can be a tight fit in my experience.

    For my juicy 5s I use the following procedure.

    1. Remove the wheel and caliper from the bike (i take the caliper off the mount rather then mount from the bike as it gives easier access).
    2. use a large flat bladed screwdriver and gently push the pistons back into their bores
    3. use a pair of pliers, grab the tab on one pad and pull it out and toward the opposite side of the caliper.
    4. remove the other pad and the retainer clip
    5. get the new pads and clip and sandwich them all together
    6. put the whole lot in the brake and push down until it all clicks into place. if it doesn't go then you may find pushing them as far as you can, then do them one at a time until seated correctly.
    7. Put the caliper back on the mount but do not tighten all the way.
    8. put the wheel back on, rest it on the ground before tightening the QR to allow it to seat properly.
    9. pump the leaver a few times then apply and hold it
    10. tighten the bolts and check for rub by spinning the wheel. If there is rub loosen off the bolts until the caliper can move about and repeat steps 9 and 10
    Giant TCR advanced 2 (Summer/race)
    Merlin single malt fixie (Commuter/winter/training)
    Trek superfly 7 (Summer XC)
    Giant Yukon singlespeed conversion (winter MTB/Ice/snow)

    Carrera virtuoso - RIP
  • I have Juicy 3s and the first time I tried to replace the pads it was a long, painful and frustrating experience. If you don't get the pistons ALL the way back in then no way will the new pads click into place.

    Then there's the difficulty of trying to hold the brake pad "sandwich" together while inserting it into the caliper. Dav1's procedure looks about right, but until you get the knack, be prepared for a lot of swearing, sweating and barked knuckles...
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Pain in the arse these in my opinion. I'm thinking of changing to a different system.

    The main problem is the damn metal spring retention thing. No matter what I do it keeps catching the disc.

    I'm clearly not the only one as I hear loads of people with Juicy 3s on the trails going round with their discs "pinging" all the time as metal rubs against metal.

    Frequently have to do the screwdriver thing to push the pistons back also if I take the wheel off, but then that's because I don't have the spacer thing when I take the wheel off and the pads get pushed together probably when the bike is in the car and the brake levers get knocked.

    Had a cheap-ass Halfords job that had a better retention system. Magnets. Worked great.
  • sniper68
    sniper68 Posts: 2,910
    deadkenny wrote:
    Frequently have to do the screwdriver thing to push the pistons back also if I take the wheel off, but then that's because I don't have the spacer thing when I take the wheel off and the pads get pushed together probably when the bike is in the car and the brake levers get knocked.

    A 50p is about the same thickness as the pad spacer,or fold a bit of cardboard until it just slides in place 8) For some reason or other i have about 4 or 5 of Avid spacers :D
    I've had juicy 5s and currently Juicy 7 Ultimates,there's a knack to pad changes.i can do it on the trail in about 5 mins........which is nice 8)
  • I've never condidered it being that tricky, certainly don't bother removing the caliper

    I just take out the wheel out, pull the two lugs with pliers, force the pistons apart, slot the new sandwich back in, wheel back in, pull the break hard a few times and im off. I've never timed it but it can't take me longer than 2 or 3 mins
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Only took the calliper off once after not realising about the stuck piston thing. It's a pain as getting the calliper back on you have to be very careful about the alignment else the disc will rub something.

    Other thing to watch out for is pushing the pads in I find the metal clip at the rear of the calliper often pops out unless you hold it in place.

    Everything else on my bike is great, but these Juicy 3s suck.
  • dav1
    dav1 Posts: 1,298
    The clips are awful, they are ususaly the cause of problems with brake rub in my experience.

    When the pads were clipped in i look around to see the retainer clip has also gone right into the slot with the pad. If it hasent then a small screwdriver to give it a nudge should get it into place and make it rest against the edge of the pad correctly.
    Giant TCR advanced 2 (Summer/race)
    Merlin single malt fixie (Commuter/winter/training)
    Trek superfly 7 (Summer XC)
    Giant Yukon singlespeed conversion (winter MTB/Ice/snow)

    Carrera virtuoso - RIP
  • Ther is a knack to changing it, I spend a stressful hour on evening changing a set of pads, then suddenly figured out how to do it, and since then I can chnage them in a few mins now.

    Having the pistons pused back in fully with a flat bladed screwdriver is definately a good start. Also have alook on youtube, bound to be a video on there.