plastic pipe for fitting crown race
The Big Cheese
Posts: 8,650
Refuse to buy a setter for £54.99!!!
So am going down the pipe route, whats the diameter needed for 1 1/8th steerers and what 'type' of pipe do I need to get (going to builders to see if I can have an offcut)
Thanks
So am going down the pipe route, whats the diameter needed for 1 1/8th steerers and what 'type' of pipe do I need to get (going to builders to see if I can have an offcut)
Thanks
0
Comments
-
Um...just a bit bigger than 1 1/8 should do it. 1 2/8 (internal), for example. Or 1 3/16 (internal).
I wonder about the efficacy of a plastic pipe to drive a crown race, especially since the CR is often tapered/conical, making it easier to split the plastic pipe. Plus if the pipe bends when you hit it you'll find it hard to keep the race square.
So in summary - See if you can get a mild steel pipe with an internal diameter greater than (but not by much) 1 1/8 inches. Make sure you get a VERY square cut at the end or you'll be driving wonkey.0 -
Decided to fit them yourself in the end
I got this from wiggle if you do want a tool for the job http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Cyclus_Crown_Race_Fitting_Tool/5300003499/0 -
fcumok wrote:Decided to fit them yourself in the end
I got this from wiggle if you do want a tool for the job http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Cyclus_Crown_Race_Fitting_Tool/5300003499/
Yep, bought loads of tools and a stand last night, my LBS is extortionate and a useless twat (moans a lot, works in chaos)
Not with my bike ya don't mate... lol0 -
Cheesey,
To be honest I've only ever used a hammer and big flat screwdriver. And gently tap tap tap away. One side then the other trying to keep the race levelish at all times. Don't smack it too hard - and obviously don't stick the screwdriver on the bearing surface, keep it on the lip that butts up against the steerer tube.
This method has worked for me for years. But is probably frowned upon by professional mechanics!0 -
You can use the plastic pipe, you just need to bolster the strength of the end by wrapping tape around it. When it does eventually split and ca't be used just trim the broken section off and reapply tape.0
-
I found the head of a small pick axe perfect.
You can still buy copper pipe in 1 1/4 inch so that would be perfect and is also softer than steel0 -
-
Mancunianfightingcat wrote:Get a headset with a split crown race - simples!
Yes, but may not 'mate' with my FSA Headset (MX Orbit) :?0 -
I used a plastic bathroom pipe with no problems with splitting etc. Not sure of the exact diameter though. Took a bit of time to do it gently but worked perfectly!If every mistake you make is a new one ... cheer up, you're making progress!0
-
IF your headset has cartridge bearings, but only if it has, you should be fine cutting the crown race with a small hacksaw and making it a split race. I've done it a couple if times with cartridge bearing headsets and never had any issues. And it makes it a piece of pee pee to remove too.0
-
Yep, it's a cartridge bearing, I normally use an adjustable wrench to this size of the race plate, then tap it with a hammer, just thought there was a better way?0
-
cheesey, thats how i do it with non split races, an adjustable and a hammer, i even have a special adjustable soley for the purpose.
MFC, this is my new fave method as the adj and hammer technique is just waiting to go wrong.0 -
I use a piece of wood as a drift then rotate round the race as I tap it down. it's worked well for me so far and, whenever I lose the piece of wood, I just cut the handle off last summer's BBQ fork thing and voila!
I was a bit worried on my last build as it was an IS headset and the crown "race" is actually a very thin piece of metal but it worked fine ... twice (as i decided i had fitted the wrong fork after 2 weeks :roll: )Everything in moderation ... except beer
Beer in moderation ... is a waste of beer
If riding an XC race bike is like touching the trail,
then riding a rigid singlespeed is like licking it
... or being punched by it, depending on the day0 -
bomberesque wrote:I use a piece of wood as a drift then rotate round the race as I tap it down. it's worked well for me so far and, whenever I lose the piece of wood, I just cut the handle off last summer's BBQ fork thing and voila!
I was a bit worried on my last build as it was an IS headset and the crown "race" is actually a very thin piece of metal but it worked fine ... twice (as i decided i had fitted the wrong fork after 2 weeks :roll: )
+1 for the wooden drift. Worked nicely for me, but the crown-race off my old Scotts headset is like the bearing off a tank turret.Less internal organs, same supertwisted great taste.0 -
+1 for the hammer and soft drift method.
I use a piece of 17 a/f hex aluminium purloined from our bar stores.
Tappety tappety tap, steady as she goes.0 -
sod it, I bought this..... at least i have it now, no more faffing around
http://www.cyclesportsuk.co.uk/product_ ... ts_id=71910 -
Cheesey wrote:sod it, I bought this..... at least i have it now, no more faffing around
http://www.cyclesportsuk.co.uk/product_ ... ts_id=7191
about the only tool i do not have.
but it has been one of the most used recently."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
£24 ain't too bad, I wasn't prepared to pay £55 for the park tools one, the next thing I need to buy are some decent cable cutters....
Believe it or not, I have needed a setter about 5 times in 2 months....0 -
What you need is an upper fork leg from a 1997 Honda CBR600 it fits perfectly and cost me nothing apart from the pain of crashing said bike and bending the fork leg at that poxy chicane at Snetterton0