What the difference????

JAKBLADE
JAKBLADE Posts: 336
edited September 2009 in MTB general
Anyone tell me what the pro's /con's are of long/medium and short cage rear mech's???
Project Finished....On-one Inbred..
Specialized Hardrock A1 Comp FS(1999-2000)
Carrera Subway 2 (for work)
Hoffman BMX (please don't hold this one against me!!)

Comments

  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Have a look at the FAQ - is all in there.
  • short cages are lighter
    Long cages are can handle more difference in teeth numbers between top and bottom
    less slack being taken up with a shorter cage so they seem (to me at least) to hold the chain tension better. this is possibly due to long cages often being set up with far too much chain though.

    Generally; triple ring needs a long cage, double or single can use shorter.

    You can run a medium or short cage on a triple but you lose some gear combinations (although they're not ones you should be using anyway) but if you do stray into them (particularly the low on the back high on the front) you can do damage to your chain, mech or even frame dropout
    Everything in moderation ... except beer
    Beer in moderation ... is a waste of beer

    If riding an XC race bike is like touching the trail,
    then riding a rigid singlespeed is like licking it
    ... or being punched by it, depending on the day
  • you wont damage the chain or hanger or mech running too short a mech...

    what you'll find is the mech cannot take the slack out of the chain in some combos, so you'll get a lot of chainslap and quite possibly slipping due to a lack of chain tension.
  • you wont damage the chain or hanger or mech running too short a mech...

    what you'll find is the mech cannot take the slack out of the chain in some combos, so you'll get a lot of chainslap and quite possibly slipping due to a lack of chain tension.

    erm, well OK then let me rephrase; you either accept that you get tons of chainslap or you risk damage by hitting big ring combos

    you need to shorten the chain so the mech can take the rest of the slack in normally used gears (32:11 for example). Then Large/large gear combos (44:34) can ovberstretch the chain and break it. That's what I was getting at anyway.
    Everything in moderation ... except beer
    Beer in moderation ... is a waste of beer

    If riding an XC race bike is like touching the trail,
    then riding a rigid singlespeed is like licking it
    ... or being punched by it, depending on the day
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    All chains should be measured around the big/big combo really.
  • but that's too short a chain...

    i reckon you could probably run a 11-34 cassette with a standard triple set the chain around the 42 and 1/2way up the cassette and get away with it if disciplined...
  • supersonic wrote:
    All chains should be measured around the big/big combo really.

    that's for girls!

    /runs away giggling
    Everything in moderation ... except beer
    Beer in moderation ... is a waste of beer

    If riding an XC race bike is like touching the trail,
    then riding a rigid singlespeed is like licking it
    ... or being punched by it, depending on the day
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Lol, is good for beginners and the clumsy - bit of slack in the 22/11 or dead drivetrain in the biggy hehe. I'd go for the former ;-)

    Actually it is best just to learn how to use your gears properly ;-)
  • supersonic wrote:
    bit of slack in the 22/11 or dead drivetrain in the biggy hehe


    hehe indeed


    WOOF
  • Cheers for that,guess I'll be getting a long cage then.
    Project Finished....On-one Inbred..
    Specialized Hardrock A1 Comp FS(1999-2000)
    Carrera Subway 2 (for work)
    Hoffman BMX (please don't hold this one against me!!)