Singlespeed novice - numpty questions

clanton

At the risk of appearing like a numpty: I am about to take my first foray into singlespeeding. I have an On-One Inbred frame with the slot dropout so won't be using a chain tensioner. I have the on-one chain tug, QR version, and am using the Velo Solo spacer kit with a normal cog taken from a used cassette.

Questions: how do I use the chaintug? I can see how it fits onto the QR and into the dropout but do I take up chain tension by hand and then tighten the chain tug or do I screw the chaintug nuts to tension the chain?

How much tension should the chain be under?

When it comes to removing the rear wheel - I assume you leave enough space forward in the dropout so that you can release the chaingtug, move the wheel forward and then unship the chain from the cog? How much space should be left here? On-One mentions the wheel should remain in the "first" 13mm of the dropout for the disc brakes to work properly.

Getting the chain line right - I have "eyeballed" it and adjusted it so that it looks ok, how exact does this need to be and should I measure it? If so what's the best way to do this accurately?

rossi46

what i do is put the wheel in the frame all the way forward with the tug on the drive side,no need for the spring on q/r,join the chain as short as you can then just slide the wheel back to take up the final bit of slack, make sure the wheel is central then screw in the 2 bolts so they just touch the frame then do up the lock nuts.to remove the wheel just unscrew the q/r completly and remove it.as for chainset buy a salsa long tooth chainring and put it in the middle position on your existing c/set with shorter bolts from www.charliethebikemonger.com
its a great frame 8) btw

redvee

clanton wrote:

Questions: how do I use the chaintug? I can see how it fits onto the QR and into the dropout but do I take up chain tension by hand and then tighten the chain tug or do I screw the chaintug nuts to tension the chain?

The latter, tighten the chaintug then the Q/R

clanton wrote:

How much tension should the chain be under?

The usual is approx 1/2" of deflection as there will be tight spots and loose spts on the chainring/sprocket caused by them not being 100% circular. You won't notice it on a geared bike as the derailleur is constantly adjusting the chain tension.

clanton wrote:

When it comes to removing the rear wheel - I assume you leave enough space forward in the dropout so that you can release the chaingtug, move the wheel forward and then unship the chain from the cog? How much space should be left here? On-One mentions the wheel should remain in the "first" 13mm of the dropout for the disc brakes to work properly.

Undo the Q/R and the chaintug and knock the wheel forward into the frame and drop the chain off the chainset and then off the sprocket, doing the sprocket only won't give you enough slack as it will catch on the axle.

You'll be better of getting a proper sprocket. Casette sprockets will work but you need the chainline 100% spot on otherwise the chain will come off. The tooth profile of a cassette sprocket is much smaller than a normal sprocket.

clanton

Thanks guys! Great replies.