Buying spokes
ride_whenever
Posts: 13,279
Right, now usually I'd just order spokes in as I work at an lbs. But, long story short, i cannot do that now.
I'd like to order some spokes for a wheelset that i'm building up but none of my usualy internet retailers (CRC, Wiggle, Merlin) sell anything other than dt comps, revs and champs.
I was hoping to get some elliptical spokes because they look good and they're easier to build the wheel with IME. Something like the dt aerospeed or aerolite (in white) or white comps depending on price.
Any help, well out of the online ordering game?
I'd like to order some spokes for a wheelset that i'm building up but none of my usualy internet retailers (CRC, Wiggle, Merlin) sell anything other than dt comps, revs and champs.
I was hoping to get some elliptical spokes because they look good and they're easier to build the wheel with IME. Something like the dt aerospeed or aerolite (in white) or white comps depending on price.
Any help, well out of the online ordering game?
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Comments
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Dt comps are your best choice...otherwise i hope you have deep pockets as aero's are not cheap..especially in white..
http://www.pedalon.co.uk/acatalog/dt_co ... pokes.html
Google for aerolites/speeds.0 -
hmm smidge under £100 for aerospeed in silver... that would work.
I know of the merits of double butting for round spokes, does it actually have any benefit for bladed spokes, all i can see is the double butted are thinner at the blade section.0 -
Bladed/aero spokes give you better aerodynamics and are generally lighter..cant see any other reason for them..normally only used in superlight wheels..and can be a pain to true up..some you have to hold the bladed section to stop it turning as you turn the nipple otherwise the spoke turns. What wheels you building up and usage? Sapim also do some very good spokes.0
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IME bladed are easier to build and true because it is easier to see when you're twisting the spoke and when you're actually turning the nipple. A twisted spoke will come undone as you pre-stress the wheel hence it takes a lot longer to build up to even and true.
I'm building some wheels for my ss inbred. I've already got DT XR 4.2d rims (white) 8) and i'm thinking hope hubs, either painted white or in silver, although i currently have a rear one on my desk in black :? with a gusset double width sprocket and spacer kit.
For usage, well I do jump a lot on this bike, but it's more sort of trail riding than out and out xc, so i get air to go faster rather than for fun, I've got the 456 for that! Most of my riding is rooty rather than rocky so i tend to float over the top.
For tyres I run a 2.3" rampage up front and a 2.1" rampage on the rear, when it gets really dry the rear is switched out for a razer (either 2.3 or 2.1 depending on how really dry) and for mud-plugging in the winter i'm running a 2.1 trailraker up front with a rampage on the back, adding a 1.9 trailraker on the rear when it gets really really wet.0 -
You don't hold the spoke do you to stop it twisting do you?Ie with pliers? Can damage them and cause them to fracture in use. Thin bladed spokes are going to twist a lot more anyway than standard 14/15g round DB spokes.
Jobst Brant seems to hate the things lol (the ones with very thin centre sections)0 -
nah, i hold them with my fingers... or i twist the spoke using the nipple, you can see the spoke twist as you try to tighten the spoke, then you can see accurately how much of a turn you've put onto the spoke then untwist it to keep the spoke straight.
So the really thin ones are a pain, excellent, i can totally justify the aerospeed spokes 8)0