removing rear cassette - any tips?

mellisr1

Right, I hope I'm not being silly

I have a chain whip to stop the cassette rotating when I try to undo the locking washer. I have the splinned tool which goes into the washer!

my haynes bike book said you undo it normally but it would be hard to get it going.

However, I just can't believe how hard it is! I eventually resorted to a fairly long torque wrench to get extra leverage. however, no joy and the chain whip handle has actually started to bend! I also tried tightening it slightly as this sometimes breaks whatever seal - still no joy though

Am I just not doing it right? any tips to get it started off? was going to apply heat using a plumbing soldering torch but not sure?

Hears hoping you guys can help as I have a broken spoke which needs replacing on the cassette side before mondays ride to work

cheers
Matt

whyamihere

Sure you're turning it the right way? If so, it's just a case of brute force.

crankycrank

You could try pouring boiling water over the lockring to heat it fast and safely. Also try dripping some penetrating oil over the lockring surface where it contacts the cog and let sit overnight.

acidstrato

how old is the cassette?? i did mine today, was as easy as a drunk 18 year old in nottingham

pmac1893

you should probably bring it to your LBS before your strip the lockring.

whyamihere

crankycrank wrote:

You could try pouring boiling water over the lockring to heat it fast and safely. Also try dripping some penetrating oil over the lockring surface where it contacts the cog and let sit overnight.

Why on earth would you want to heat the lockring? Heat will make it expand, which is the opposite of what's required. If you could apply heat directly to the freehub body then maybe, but the cassette's in the way...

woodford2barbican

Are you sure you need the chain whip - could be working against yourself in some instances with a shimano cassette.

nicklouse

woodford2barbican wrote:

Are you sure you need the chain whip - could be working against yourself in some instances with a shimano cassette.

IF it is a cassette then you DO need a chain whip. (or other cassette tool)


mellisr1
What is the wheel/hub?

is it a cassette or....

crankycrank

whyamihere wrote:

crankycrank wrote:

You could try pouring boiling water over the lockring to heat it fast and safely.

Why on earth would you want to heat the lockring? Heat will make it expand, which is the opposite of what's required. If you could apply heat directly to the freehub body then maybe, but the cassette's in the way...

Agreed. My mistake. Sorry 'bout that.

Chrissz

Are you turning things the right way? Silly question I know but...............................

Place the wheel in front of you with the cassette side furthest away from you. Hold chain whip in your left hand, cassette lockring tool/spanner in your right. You should then be able to simply push down on both sides to undo the lockring Simples :!:

mellisr1

thanks guys

lots of helpful advice

tried various things, checked I was turning the right way, applied penetrating oil, heated the cassette, put a spanner on end of chainwhip for extra leverage - snap, chain whip broken

admitted defeat, took to LBS and they got two guys on it using a chain whip and another tool to imobilise the cassette and they couldn't do it. said the force they were exerting was lifting the guy up who was trying to hold it. It has the record though of being the most seized on lock ring ever. their view is that even if they could put the required force through it, it'd probably strip the thread or otherwise damage the cassette! It's junk (a shame as its only 3 months old). They have told me to have words with the people who fitted it as they must have used extreme force when doing it up way beyond the 40nm recommended!!!!

oh well, at least the reason I'm taking it off is cause a new wheel is coming, I'll just have to risk riding with one broken spoke for a week or so!
cheers again
Matt

will3

You could probably remove and replace the freehub, cassette and all, and repair the wheel in the process.

apreading

would it be possible to drill the lockring to get it off? Then just buy a new lockring to replace the drilled one?

mellisr1

well I might just use a dremle and cut the lockring. if I damage it, then they are not that expensive (17.50 delivered from wooly hat shop).

reason I was taking it off is the OE rim and spokes are made of butter (hubs probably not much better). as I take a lot of gear for commutting and now my daughter to nursery I'd already ordered a rigida sputnik rear wheel off of SPA cycles in harrogate.

as it'll take a week or so to build for me I'll try the dremmle and then order a new ccassette if I end up butchering it!

cheers again for all the helpful advice
Matt