!!! Anyone know how to refit a Hope Pro2 freehub body?

craker
craker Posts: 1,739
edited October 2009 in MTB workshop & tech
Sorry about the exclamations - supposed to be off to Cwmcarn tomorrow on my new wheels but I've gone and knackered them.

My cassette lockring tool doesn't really fit because the spacer on the end of the hub is over diameter, I knocked it on with a hammer and fitted the cassette but when I tried knocking it off again the whole freehub body came off with it. :oops:

I've had a look at a video on the hope website - it looks like it's push fit but the guys got a special tool which fits neatly over the splines of the freehub which he knocks it with.

I've just had a go at bashing the cassette a bit but only managed to dent the spacer on the disc side. I'll struggle to get the cassette off now because my tool is still a tight fit...

question - do I really need the tool the Hope bloke uses?

bloody hell.

arggghhh.

I'll have to take the missus' Trek with the baby seat rack and extra comfy saddle.

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    all the info is in the hope video, which can be found in the links above.

    It aint that hrad and does not need any special tools. it just needs a twisting push

    sounds like getting the correct cassette tool might have been an idea.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • dave_hill
    dave_hill Posts: 3,877
    mr_si wrote:
    question - do I really need the tool the Hope bloke uses?

    Nope, it just pushes on. Turn it as you push to make sure that the pawls drop into the ratchet ring properly. Also, you'll need to make sure the seal ring is properly seat in the hub body otherwise the rotor won't spin freely.

    To prevent pulling the body off again, fit the cassette BEFORE replacing axle end cap...
    Give a home to a retired Greyhound. Tia Greyhound Rescue
    Help for Heroes
    JayPic
  • craker
    craker Posts: 1,739
    dave_hill wrote:
    To prevent pulling the body off again, fit the cassette BEFORE replacing axle end cap...

    now that's a good idea. I got up early and put the cassette tool in the lathe and bored it out enough to work.

    Still couldn't get the freehub to locate properly. ie there's no snap. Is that caused by the plastic seal engaging properly? In which case applying brute force push the freehub onto the hub isn't doing anything useful. There's no obvious mechanism to keep the freehub in place and I've tried a variety of pushing it together really hard strategies.

    Did the XC circuit at Cwmcarn on wife's Trek. Most alarming. No SPDs (how do people ride like that?).
  • dave_hill
    dave_hill Posts: 3,877
    mr_si wrote:
    Still couldn't get the freehub to locate properly. ie there's no snap. Is that caused by the plastic seal engaging properly?

    No, there's no "snap" or "click", everythings' a transition fit and the whole thing is kept together by the hub being clamped between the dropouts!

    You just push the rotor body on as far as it will go, then replace the end cap. You must make sure though that the seal ring (the plastic ring which is captive in the rotor) seats properly in the hub body - if necessary, ease it into position with a small screwdriver, just pressing on it until it pops into position.
    Give a home to a retired Greyhound. Tia Greyhound Rescue
    Help for Heroes
    JayPic
  • scale20
    scale20 Posts: 1,300
    If you are going to pull your hub appart often to service it you might want to invest in the pro 2 seal tool.

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=28390

    A new seal can be a bugger to fit and I've tried bodging it with screw drivers and the likes. This tool is only a few quid but does the job properly.
    Niner Air 9 Rigid
    Whyte 129S 29er.
  • lochussie
    lochussie Posts: 276
    Due to a cheapo cassette, I've also accidentally removed my freehub. I'm pretty sure that I've put it back together ok. The only thing is that I can't get the loud pop like in the Hope video http://www.hopegb.com/page_mep_force_37.html . Does that mean I've not got it on properly?
  • KonaKurt
    KonaKurt Posts: 720
    That's handy advice Dave, cheers. Might need it to overhaul my blue hubs soon.
    If you were to lose or break the seal ring (which is possible being a fiddly part) are spares available sperately?

    KK.
  • dave_hill
    dave_hill Posts: 3,877
    KonaKurt wrote:
    That's handy advice Dave, cheers. Might need it to overhaul my blue hubs soon.
    If you were to lose or break the seal ring (which is possible being a fiddly part) are spares available sperately?

    KK.

    Never had to replace one myself, but knowing Hope I'm sure that they'd supply you with one if you ask nicely.
    Give a home to a retired Greyhound. Tia Greyhound Rescue
    Help for Heroes
    JayPic
  • lochussie
    lochussie Posts: 276
    dave_hill wrote:
    mr_si wrote:
    No, there's no "snap" or "click", everythings' a transition fit and the whole thing is kept together by the hub being clamped between the dropouts!

    So how come there is a loud pop in the Hope video? Like I say, I am pretty sure I have fitted correctly, just curious.
  • dave_hill
    dave_hill Posts: 3,877
    lochussie wrote:
    dave_hill wrote:
    No, there's no "snap" or "click", everythings' a transition fit and the whole thing is kept together by the hub being clamped between the dropouts!

    So how come there is a loud pop in the Hope video? Like I say, I am pretty sure I have fitted correctly, just curious.

    Having never seen the Hope video I couldn't possibly comment. I can only speak from personal experience, and in my experience there's no obvious sign that tyou've seated the thing properly other than the fact that it won't go any further.
    Give a home to a retired Greyhound. Tia Greyhound Rescue
    Help for Heroes
    JayPic
  • scale20
    scale20 Posts: 1,300
    You can get replacement seals, most good LBS' should stock them.

    I never get the pop on mine when I take it appart, i'd say the hub has a microphone in it in the video :lol:

    They are easy to put back together just remember to put the spacer back in before you put the freeehub body back on. As I've said in an earlier post, it helps no end to have the hope seal replacement tool.
    Niner Air 9 Rigid
    Whyte 129S 29er.
  • craker
    craker Posts: 1,739
    I got the hub seal back on - the seal is a push fit inside the hub body, however I had to make a tool out of a playdoh pot - I wanted something circular of the right diameter to push it on evenly all the way round at once. It kind of popped; it was clear when it located properly and it keeps the freehub in place.
  • edmiddleton1988
    edmiddleton1988 Posts: 91
    dave_hill wrote:
    mr_si wrote:
    Still couldn't get the freehub to locate properly. ie there's no snap. Is that caused by the plastic seal engaging properly?

    No, there's no "snap" or "click", everythings' a transition fit and the whole thing is kept together by the hub being clamped between the dropouts!

    You just push the rotor body on as far as it will go, then replace the end cap. You must make sure though that the seal ring (the plastic ring which is captive in the rotor) seats properly in the hub body - if necessary, ease it into position with a small screwdriver, just pressing on it until it pops into position.

    there is a 'snap' as the seal clicks back into place. this is only noticeable when using the proper tool. it's a worthwhile investment if you're going to do your hubs often as without it the seal can look seated but will cause friction between it, the hub and the freehub body.
  • x-isle
    x-isle Posts: 794
    The seal can be a right pain in the arse to get in without the tool.

    So many times (before I got the tool) the seal looks perfectly in place, but on next inspection waters got it.

    You can do and it'll be fine, but best to get the tool and do it again when you can.
    Craig Rogers

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