What tools - looking to start doing stuff at home?
dru
Posts: 1,341
Hi Guys,
Looking for your input as to what tools I should be owning to be able to do servicing and stuff at home on my road bike?
The bike has got Campagnolo groupset etc
Currently I own a standard 'multi-tool' with various Allen keys and a few spanners on, I have a proper 15mm Pedal Spanner, a Track pump and some tyre levers.
What would people suggest I go for as the 'essential tools' needed for home servicing?
I hear about chain whips etc etc and it's all over my head.
Many thanks,
Dru.
Looking for your input as to what tools I should be owning to be able to do servicing and stuff at home on my road bike?
The bike has got Campagnolo groupset etc
Currently I own a standard 'multi-tool' with various Allen keys and a few spanners on, I have a proper 15mm Pedal Spanner, a Track pump and some tyre levers.
What would people suggest I go for as the 'essential tools' needed for home servicing?
I hear about chain whips etc etc and it's all over my head.
Many thanks,
Dru.
0
Comments
-
You won't like this but I would say the most important thing is a good quality set of individual allen keys - the ones on multi-tools aren't the best quality and can round off the heads which causes big headaches! Likewise for good quality screwdrivers.
essential - good quality cable cutters - you will cringe at the price but they last agese
cassette remover tool is a must to remove cassettes - the chain whip is used as well but you can often get by simply holding the cassette with an old rag or towel - that said it is useful.
Campag - the ultra torque tool is useful if you have UT chainsets - although I gues it is technically just a large allen key extension. if you don't have UT then a crank remover tool is good and cheap - and you need BB tools specific to the bottom bracket you have/0 -
Chain whip,
cassette tool,
chain tool,
torque wrench,
crank extractor,
bottom bracket tool,
spoke key,
Allen keys.
If you have an external bottom bracket then this fits most cups.Neil
Help I'm Being Oppressed0 -
Doh - how could I forget a chain tool! - essential!!
not sure that a torque wrench is particularly essential though.0 -
gkerr4 wrote:You won't like this but I would say the most important thing is a good quality set of individual allen keys - the ones on multi-tools aren't the best quality and can round off the heads which causes big headaches! Likewise for good quality screwdrivers.
The multi tool is more of a thnig to have for 'by the side of the road'
It won't be a problem getting a decent set for at home to work with0 -
I've apparently got a wipperman?? chain - with a quick release - does this mean that I need a tool or can just 'pull it apart? - sorry for the silly newbie questions.0
-
Wooliferkins wrote:Chain whip,
cassette tool,
chain tool,
torque wrench,
crank extractor,
bottom bracket tool,
spoke key,
Allen keys.
If you have an external bottom bracket then this fits most cups.
Thanks for the list - would any of these items have to be 'campag' specific?0 -
I completely second gkerr4: a good set of allen keys and a good set of screwdrivers is number 1. And cable snips too. This is sufficient for the vast majority of regular bike maintenance tasks.
Other than that, the pragmatic approach is simply to build your tools up as and when the mainenance task you're performing demands it. E.g. cassette tool, chain whip, etc, you're only going to need if you decide to remove/change your cassette, so don't worry about it for now, but when the time comes, plan the job in advance and get the tools specifically for the task.
Finally, the Park Blue Book is a maintenance bible - if you're keen to do your own repairs and not that confident at the minute, this will guide you through virtually everything you can think of doing.0 -
I picked up a box of bike tools from Lidl for a few quid and it's been surprisingly good. I've only had to add a few extra bits and pieces, such as an external BB tool and cable cutters.0
-
Dru wrote:Wooliferkins wrote:Chain whip,
cassette tool,
chain tool,
torque wrench,
crank extractor,
bottom bracket tool,
spoke key,
Allen keys.
If you have an external bottom bracket then this fits most cups.
Thanks for the list - would any of these items have to be 'campag' specific?
If you have external bottom bracket then just the cassette tools, if you have square taper then the bottom bracket tool as well. Other makers bar Campag make the tools. I did miss the cable cutters off the list, the ice toolz pro version are excellent. KMC make pair of pliers that will undo your chain quick link but you'll still need the regular tool for trimming new chains to fit.Neil
Help I'm Being Oppressed0 -
-
I'll put in my vote for a work stand. Makes working on a bike a whole lot easier. I like the ones with the top tube / seat post clamp on them. Simply pop your bike in, close the clamp, and you're set. As opposed to a stand that requires you to remove the front or rear wheel.0
-
dennisn wrote:I'll put in my vote for a work stand. Makes working on a bike a whole lot easier. I like the ones with the top tube / seat post clamp on them. Simply pop your bike in, close the clamp, and you're set. As opposed to a stand that requires you to remove the front or rear wheel.
Any reasonably priced recommendations of these? I could do with one but on a budget, and limited space for storage.0 -
t0ph0id wrote:dennisn wrote:I'll put in my vote for a work stand. Makes working on a bike a whole lot easier. I like the ones with the top tube / seat post clamp on them. Simply pop your bike in, close the clamp, and you're set. As opposed to a stand that requires you to remove the front or rear wheel.
Any reasonably priced recommendations of these? I could do with one but on a budget, and limited space for storage.
Since you're "over there" and I'm "over here" I'll beg off recommending one and maybe someone "over there" can steer you in that direction. If it's for home shop use you don't need a top of the line stand. Most of the inexpensive ones will do a pretty fair job for you.0 -
t0ph0id wrote:dennisn wrote:I'll put in my vote for a work stand. Makes working on a bike a whole lot easier. I like the ones with the top tube / seat post clamp on them. Simply pop your bike in, close the clamp, and you're set. As opposed to a stand that requires you to remove the front or rear wheel.
Any reasonably priced recommendations of these? I could do with one but on a budget, and limited space for storage.
Minoura.Pegoretti
Colnago
Cervelo
Campagnolo0 -
on-yer-bike wrote:t0ph0id wrote:dennisn wrote:I'll put in my vote for a work stand. Makes working on a bike a whole lot easier. I like the ones with the top tube / seat post clamp on them. Simply pop your bike in, close the clamp, and you're set. As opposed to a stand that requires you to remove the front or rear wheel.
Any reasonably priced recommendations of these? I could do with one but on a budget, and limited space for storage.
Minoura.
+1
but the terms "workstand" and "budget" don't fit together too well!0 -
gkerr4 wrote:on-yer-bike wrote:t0ph0id wrote:dennisn wrote:I'll put in my vote for a work stand. Makes working on a bike a whole lot easier. I like the ones with the top tube / seat post clamp on them. Simply pop your bike in, close the clamp, and you're set. As opposed to a stand that requires you to remove the front or rear wheel.
Any reasonably priced recommendations of these? I could do with one but on a budget, and limited space for storage.
Minoura.
+1
but the terms "workstand" and "budget" don't fit together too well!
You're right. You don't really need Parks top line stand, although it's very nice. You also probably shouldn't buy the cheapest thing you can find either. I have a "mid priced?", I think, Minoura and it's been working fine for more than a few years now.0 -
i wouldnt buy a park stand either, kestrel engineering only for me once i can afford one...0
-
Just a small note, I'd suggest you get a 3-way "Y" shaped multi-allen key like this: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/LifeLine_Triple_Hex_Wrench/5360026438/ as it fits 90% of the allen sockets you will need to tighten. The reason I suggest it is that when you use it, you tighten the socket with the wrench at 90 degrees to the socket, so less chance of slipping-off at an angle (and damaging the socket head) than there is with a standard "L" shaped allen key.Cycling weakly0