Campy cassette wobble

dna_28

Hi all, just joined the forum hoping that someone can help with this.

I'm building up a bike with full campy gear. This is my first experience with campy stuff so don't know if this is normal - my campy 9 spd cassette has some movement on the freehub body, in a rotational sense, ie the sprockets and the splines are not a perfect fit. Don't yet have a lockring so don't know how this affects things but even if it clamps it tight, pedaling will surely cause things to slip? This doesn't strike me as good. All I have to compare it with is several shimano cassettes where the cassettes fit really snugly on the splines on the cassette body with no play.

FYI, I am using Gipiemme Tecno 024 wheelset with campy 9/10 spd freehub and have a Veloce 9 spd exa drive cassette. I picked up the wheels second hand and there are knurled edges on the splines where it looks like there has been slipping in the past.

I also have a Record 8 spd exa drive cassette (which I bought before I realised it wouldn't fit the newer style freehub) as I have 8 spd ergos/mech. This does fit on the hub but has eve more play then the 9 spd. I plan to respace the 9 spd sprockets to 8 spd.

Anyone had similar problems with a gipiemme freehub, or do all campy cassettes have this kind of play on the hub?

Cheers,
Nick

Jbish

I've started a similar thread to this. Ive just had a new cassette (veloce 10s) on my new (second hand) bike and there's a really frustrating click at a specific point when you put pressure down and turn the cranks over (if that makes sense). The cassette does jump forward ever so slightly with the click but it's not much at all. And as I just mentioned, it only happens at the start of a rotation at one specific point.

I'm just trying to decide whether it's worth taking it apart and attempting to service it, or finding a replacement.

Or is it something that just happens with camag stuff and you have to live with?!

pinno

Theory has it that whatever play you have will be taken up as the force of the chain on the sprocket will force it up against the spline. As there is no friction apart from the pawls in pedalling backwards, there is nothing to make the sprocket go back against the spline.

You cannot do without the lockring.
Clicking - Look for: Chain link pin sitting too far out. The link pin can sit too far out on the right hand side a little but not on the left (spoke side) and make sure the link at the point you put the pin back in is moving freely as possible. If its stiff, its fed on to the cassette from the top jockey wheel half a tooth out or so. If your chain has stretched a bit due to excessive wear, again, its not feeding on to the cassette properly.
If there is a lot of play in the cassette, you have to set the cassette up so that the overlap of teeth is in line. If you take a good look at your Campag cassette, the overlap between one sprocket and the next is roughly half a tooth. There is a neat and ordered diagonal line (until the last one or two - when there is 2 or more difference in teeth from one sprocket to another).
When you are tightening up the cassette, it is very important to make sure the surfaces of the spacers and sprockets are totally clean - wash them in detergent, take away all traces of silicone/lubricants etc. Lubricate after assembly.
In the process of tightening the cassette, tighten it to the point that you can move each sprocket forward against the freehub body. i.e Towards the direction of rotation, without them being too loose as to slip backwards, taking all the play out. Make sure each sprocket is as far forward on the spline as possible before tightening the lockring fully.
I rode campag on Ksyriums and there was much more play than my current Scirocco hubs which are campag anyway and there was much more play than Campag on Campag.
Hope this helps.