Restoring a bike.....

Clarebunny

I need another hobby like a hole in the head... so I've acquired myself a German hub geared bike that needs a leeeetle bit of love and TLC. The most I've ever done before on a bike is replaced a gear cable.... so it's going to be interesting!

I think I need to:
-replace the gear and brake cables
-remove as much rust as possible (sandpaper??)
-rub down and respray the frame
-replace the tyres (perished) and innter tubes

Otherwise I think it's ok ish...... What do you think> Any advice??

oscarbudgie

The rust on the stem and bars is rust thats come up through the chrome plating from beneath - you can remove the rust and remaining chrome with a wire brush attached to an electric drill (wear eye protection) to get them down to the base steel. Rechroming is very expensive though so you may find it cheaper to replace with new - if you can find replacements that is. Perhaps you should ask 'why' instead of 'how'!

Mike400

Unless you are looking a specific colour scheme, why not have the frame professionally sand-blasted and powder-coated? Shouldnt cost more than £50 or £60 and will leave a really tough finish.

UndercoverElephant

Super-Klasse? Who says the Germans don't have a sense of humour.

OSOH

Hi

I'm in the process of trying something similar myself, and have almost finished the spraying on the frame. My idea for the handlebars etc, instead of rechroming, was to use silver spray paint - not actually used it yet, hoping the finish will be decent, but maybe worth a shot if you're trying to do it on the cheap? I picked up 'Plasti-Kote Brilliant Metallic' from Wilkinson, has a shiny silver top. Not sure how durable it'll be, but for an ancient bike I'm thinking it must be better than nothing!

Just a thought Good luck on it, hope it doesn't drag out for as long as mine has so far - hate this constantly changing weather!

supersonic

I think a new bike is the way forward here. That needs a lot of work and parts replacing, and a full service which will probably top £100.

Biscuiteer

oscarbudgie wrote:

The rust on the stem and bars is rust thats come up through the chrome plating from beneath - you can remove the rust and remaining chrome with a wire brush attached to an electric drill (wear eye protection) to get them down to the base steel.

I'm in the middle of doing something similar. Here's what I've learnt...

Draw a diagram of which cup, bearing and thigumy goes where as you dismantle the headset, don't try to do it after you've knocked the carefully arranged set of parts off the workbench and all over the floor. If you don't have the special tool, you may be able to remove the headset cups from the frame with the gentle aid of a vice, a mallet and a really big screwdriver.

Don't spend half an hour hitting your cranks with a mallet because you've forgotten you own a crank puller. :oops:

You may find that the full-size powerdrill and wire brush combo is a bit too brutal for rust treatment. I tried that and it cut through the rust very quickly and started putting deep scratches in the frame before I even realised it had got the rust off. I used a combination of Hammerite Rust Remover (in both gel and liquid form) and a 'Dremel' type tool with a mini wire brush attachment. It took longer but it didn't chew through the frame. It's worth buying Dremel brand attachments - they are more expensive but last much longer than unbranded or DIY store own brand attachments. Also don't mistake Kurust for a rust remover.

For paint removal, the easy option is to pay and get the paint blasted off. Don't get it sandblasted though as that's too harsh. I think that walnut shells or plastic beads should be used instead? I opted for the DIY route instead and stripped the frame using Nitromors, wire wool and the Dremel with wire brush attachments again. Leather gloves and safety glasses are your friends... Old toothbrushes are useful too.

I had some pitting to the steel when I had removed all the rust - the bike I'm doing is in a much worse condition than yours by the looks of it - so I filled the pits with Davids Isopon car filler. This stuff works best on large areas of corrosion. Try to fill small holes with it and the chances are it will all come out when you sand it flush after it has set. And **** is it a ******* pig to sand ******* flush especially in ******* awkward areas where parts of the ******* frame are ******* welded together! Think of all the hours you've spent on the frame at this point and remind yourself that they'll all have been wasted if you throw the frame away in frustration now.

Having returned to the frame a month or so after my unhappy experience with the filler, I did a final sand down with very fine wet & dry paper, degreased the frame and clamped it in my bike stand by its seatpost, ready for painting. I wrapped the bike stand in clingfilm to protect it and used little rolls of paper to protect all the screw threads on the frame from the paint too. I sprayed it with etching primer first and then two rattle cans of Halfords car paint of the chosen colour. The frame is now 'baking' in my loft for a couple of weeks. I need to get some decals sorted out for it before I lacquer it. Paying someone to powder coat your frame will give you a more durable finish.

Most supplies can be bought in Halfords or B&Q but I got my dremel brushes on ebay as they were much cheaper there. You'll probably also spend more time and money than the frame is worth! - I certainly have but at the end of it all I'll know that I've got a much loved frame that's now good for another few thousand miles.

Bugly

BIN it

Clarebunny

Mike400 wrote:

Unless you are looking a specific colour scheme, why not have the frame professionally sand-blasted and powder-coated? Shouldnt cost more than £50 or £60 and will leave a really tough finish.

Hi Mike, I've thought about getting it done professionally, but obviously part of the plan is not to spend toooo much on it... so I'm not sure yet! Sounds like a good option though! Who would you suggest to get it sprayed by?

Clarebunny

OSOH wrote:

Hi

I'm in the process of trying something similar myself, and have almost finished the spraying on the frame. My idea for the handlebars etc, instead of rechroming, was to use silver spray paint - not actually used it yet, hoping the finish will be decent, but maybe worth a shot if you're trying to do it on the cheap? I picked up 'Plasti-Kote Brilliant Metallic' from Wilkinson, has a shiny silver top. Not sure how durable it'll be, but for an ancient bike I'm thinking it must be better than nothing!

Just a thought Good luck on it, hope it doesn't drag out for as long as mine has so far - hate this constantly changing weather!

That sounds like a pretty good plan- I don't mind experimentign and messing up and learning something in some ways.... so maybe that's the way to go.... texture's nice right??

Clarebunny

supersonic wrote:

I think a new bike is the way forward here. That needs a lot of work and parts replacing, and a full service which will probably top £100.

Well I have a new bike (Specialized Globe Vienna 4), as stated in the post the idea of this is that it's a bit of a project something to play with. It was free, I'm planning to do ALL the work that I can myself (inlcuding the servicing) as I have a reasonable collection of tools and a bit of knowledge and a bit of experimental-ness.......

What parts would you suggest need replacing?

Clarebunny

Biscuiteer wrote:

oscarbudgie wrote:

The rust on the stem and bars is rust thats come up through the chrome plating from beneath - you can remove the rust and remaining chrome with a wire brush attached to an electric drill (wear eye protection) to get them down to the base steel.

I'm in the middle of doing something similar. Here's what I've learnt...

Draw a diagram of which cup, bearing and thigumy goes where as you dismantle the headset, don't try to do it after you've knocked the carefully arranged set of parts off the workbench and all over the floor. If you don't have the special tool, you may be able to remove the headset cups from the frame with the gentle aid of a vice, a mallet and a really big screwdriver.

Don't spend half an hour hitting your cranks with a mallet because you've forgotten you own a crank puller. :oops:

You may find that the full-size powerdrill and wire brush combo is a bit too brutal for rust treatment. I tried that and it cut through the rust very quickly and started putting deep scratches in the frame before I even realised it had got the rust off. I used a combination of Hammerite Rust Remover (in both gel and liquid form) and a 'Dremel' type tool with a mini wire brush attachment. It took longer but it didn't chew through the frame. It's worth buying Dremel brand attachments - they are more expensive but last much longer than unbranded or DIY store own brand attachments. Also don't mistake Kurust for a rust remover.

For paint removal, the easy option is to pay and get the paint blasted off. Don't get it sandblasted though as that's too harsh. I think that walnut shells or plastic beads should be used instead? I opted for the DIY route instead and stripped the frame using Nitromors, wire wool and the Dremel with wire brush attachments again. Leather gloves and safety glasses are your friends... Old toothbrushes are useful too.

I had some pitting to the steel when I had removed all the rust - the bike I'm doing is in a much worse condition than yours by the looks of it - so I filled the pits with Davids Isopon car filler. This stuff works best on large areas of corrosion. Try to fill small holes with it and the chances are it will all come out when you sand it flush after it has set. And **** is it a ******* pig to sand ******* flush especially in ******* awkward areas where parts of the ******* frame are ******* welded together! Think of all the hours you've spent on the frame at this point and remind yourself that they'll all have been wasted if you throw the frame away in frustration now.

Having returned to the frame a month or so after my unhappy experience with the filler, I did a final sand down with very fine wet & dry paper, degreased the frame and clamped it in my bike stand by its seatpost, ready for painting. I wrapped the bike stand in clingfilm to protect it and used little rolls of paper to protect all the screw threads on the frame from the paint too. I sprayed it with etching primer first and then two rattle cans of Halfords car paint of the chosen colour. The frame is now 'baking' in my loft for a couple of weeks. I need to get some decals sorted out for it before I lacquer it. Paying someone to powder coat your frame will give you a more durable finish.

Most supplies can be bought in Halfords or B&Q but I got my dremel brushes on ebay as they were much cheaper there. You'll probably also spend more time and money than the frame is worth! - I certainly have but at the end of it all I'll know that I've got a much loved frame that's now good for another few thousand miles.

Heh that sounds like quiet an advernture/ experience!! I like the idea of using cling film! I havent got a workstand yet, but will be looking for one soon.....

I'm not sure my job is going to be a professional as yours, but I hope I can do it. Like I've said, it's a bit of an experiment, see what I can learn etc etc!

Clarebunny

Bugly wrote:

BIN it

And learn... what about bikes?

This is a PROJECT for me to try my hand at bike maintenance, about spotting problems, solving them, respraying a frame an amusing colour etc... with the hope of using it for shopping trips and stuff eventually.


Who wants to see another bike in a skip?

[/i]

Clarebunny

oscarbudgie wrote:

The rust on the stem and bars is rust thats come up through the chrome plating from beneath - you can remove the rust and remaining chrome with a wire brush attached to an electric drill (wear eye protection) to get them down to the base steel. Rechroming is very expensive though so you may find it cheaper to replace with new - if you can find replacements that is. Perhaps you should ask 'why' instead of 'how'!

I think you mgiht be right that it will be hard to find a similar replacement, and despite being rusted there's nothing esle wrong with them. Would I need to rechrome it if I removed the chrome or would it be ok just down to the steel?

nation

I'm in the process of building up a mid-90s Specialized Rockhopper. For the rusty parts I actually just took a wire brush to them by hand and then painted it with hammerite (mostly because you can apply it straight to bare metal and it won't flake off even if you miss some of the rust.

For the chromed parts on your bike, if you strip off the rust and what's left of the chrome you'll be left with bare steel which will rust up again in hours unless you paint it or otherwise protect it. I'm not totally sure what would be best to use (other than trusty hammerite).

Bugly

Clarebunny wrote:

Bugly wrote:

BIN it

And learn... what about bikes?

This is a PROJECT for me to try my hand at bike maintenance, about spotting problems, solving them, respraying a frame an amusing colour etc... with the hope of using it for shopping trips and stuff eventually.


Who wants to see another bike in a skip?

[/i]

CB sorry it was junky and cheap new some 20 years ago, spending 100 pound on it you will end up with a junky cheap bike you spent money on. If you want to restore something look around for a quality frame, something built on Reynolds or Columbus tubing. Nasty steel frames (esp the old ladies style) are horrible to ride; bendy flexible at the bottom bracket wheels that dont track straight and heavy to boot; save your money.

UndercoverElephant

Clarebunny wrote:

I think you mgiht be right that it will be hard to find a similar replacement, and despite being rusted there's nothing esle wrong with them. Would I need to rechrome it if I removed the chrome or would it be ok just down to the steel?

The problem with that is that steel rusts really quickly when exposed to the elements. That's why the chrome was there in the first place (well, why the nickle, beneath the chrome was there anyway).

Fireblade96

As a serial re-user of knackered old bikes (which make excellent short-distance commuting and pub transport, and can be left in town with minimal risk of them being nicked), I'd say:

do as little as possible to make it roadworthy ! Then ride it and fix bits as they break.
There's little point spending a lot of time doing cosmetic restoration on a cheap bike. Just make sure the transmission and brakes work acceptably, then go ride it (to the pub) :-)

itboffin

Fireblade96 wrote:

As a serial re-user of knackered old bikes (which make excellent short-distance commuting and pub transport, and can be left in town with minimal risk of them being nicked), I'd say:

do as little as possible to make it roadworthy ! Then ride it and fix bits as they break.
There's little point spending a lot of time doing cosmetic restoration on a cheap bike. Just make sure the transmission and brakes work acceptably, then go ride it (to the pub) :-)

Wise advice

elcani

I've got to agree with Fireblade96 and itboffin. You can learn a lot and get loads of satisfaction from sorting out an old bike, but if the basic machine was always a bit cr*appy then stick to cheap mechanical fixes. I would suggest a new chain, new cables (inners only if you can) and new brake pads. Service the hubs and clean and lubricate everything. If there are major parts (crank, BB, headset etc) that need replacing, then you should probably find a better bike to spend the money on.

I found an old Scott MTB/Hybrid in a skip and did what I described above. For a total of about £25 I had a smooth riding and well-functioning bike that I gave to a mate.

So do it, but on the CHEAP.

supersonic

Clarebunny wrote:

supersonic wrote:

I think a new bike is the way forward here. That needs a lot of work and parts replacing, and a full service which will probably top £100.

Well I have a new bike (Specialized Globe Vienna 4), as stated in the post the idea of this is that it's a bit of a project something to play with. It was free, I'm planning to do ALL the work that I can myself (inlcuding the servicing) as I have a reasonable collection of tools and a bit of knowledge and a bit of experimental-ness.......

What parts would you suggest need replacing?

I'd need to cast a beady eye over it lol, but maybe I misread your intentions: as a hobby, project, yeah, I'd have a crack at it!

The Sturmey hub can be difficult to crack if knackered but they usually last ages anyway. Hub, headset and bottom bracket bearings should be at least looked at, and be careful with rust - make sure it is only surface deep.

But be realsitic in your aims and what you will finish with.

Clarebunny

Fireblade96 wrote:

As a serial re-user of knackered old bikes (which make excellent short-distance commuting and pub transport, and can be left in town with minimal risk of them being nicked), I'd say:

do as little as possible to make it roadworthy ! Then ride it and fix bits as they break.
There's little point spending a lot of time doing cosmetic restoration on a cheap bike. Just make sure the transmission and brakes work acceptably, then go ride it (to the pub) :-)

Yup that makes sense! I don't really have much money to spend on it and like you say- cheap and cheerful and can be left in town or at the station with little risk of it being nicked! (I dont' like leaving my new hybrid or the brompton at the station for fear it wont be there when I get back....)


Roadworthy is the aim of the game!