Chainring size for 1x9

Danielsan
Danielsan Posts: 35
edited November 2010 in MTB buying advice
Hi chaps.

I'm currently in the process of planning a self build. This is a bit of an all-round, fun bike that can take a few hits but is still rideable over relatively long distances.

I was thinking of going for 1x9 speed but after doing a bit of research i'm not sure what size chainring I should be going for. I won't be buying for a while but am making a 'to buy' list and budget and would like to finalise the details of the build.

Anyone have any advice? What do other 1x9 riders use?

Thanks in advance. Dan

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    anything from 32 to 38.

    depends on what you are building!
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • nicklouse wrote:
    anything from 32 to 38.

    depends on what you are building!
    What do you mean exactly Nicklouse?

    Sorry, i'm a bit of a novice when it comes to drivetrain stuff. One of the reasons for doing a self build is to be able to research and learn about everything!
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    well are you building a DH bike? a FR bike? a jump bike and XC bike a...........

    you say an all round bike but what is its main use going to be?

    a 9spd set up WILL be a compromise.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • adb1006
    adb1006 Posts: 938
    IMO you'd be better off going 2x9 and sticking on a 30 and a 40 or 42.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    adb1006 wrote:
    IMO you'd be better off going 2x9 and sticking on a 30 and a 40 or 42.

    a bit hard to do if not impossible :wink:
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • adb1006
    adb1006 Posts: 938
    nicklouse wrote:
    adb1006 wrote:
    IMO you'd be better off going 2x9 and sticking on a 30 and a 40 or 42.

    a bit hard to do if not impossible :wink:

    How's that? I've seen dozens.
    http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum ... =1&t=53945
  • Well it'll be used for jumping, FR, singletrack kinda stuff but also be able to climb those hills.

    Mr Hyde frame and RS pikes. Wheelset not yet sure about.

    I do find that when I ride at the moment I stick in the same ring most, if not all of the time.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    adb1006
    oh the messing about.

    with 30T granny rings. so much easier with a 28T

    I was thinking back to the Old CD 5 bolt fitting cranks.. as they have 30 and 40 as a common size .
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    Danielsan
    on my Hyde i went 28/38 with a bash and lower roller.

    http://www.bikeradar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12610045

    pbpic3035451.jpg

    tis the older version but maybe something to think along the lines of.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • adb1006
    adb1006 Posts: 938
    Danielsan wrote:
    Well it'll be used for jumping, FR, singletrack kinda stuff but also be able to climb those hills.

    Mr Hyde frame and RS pikes. Wheelset not yet sure about.

    I do find that when I ride at the moment I stick in the same ring most, if not all of the time.

    If you've hills of any worth near you, i certainly wouldn't advise a single front - unless you have thighs of STEEL! I'd go at least 2x9 or even consider just a standard 3x9 set-up.
    nicklouse wrote:
    adb1006
    oh the messing about.

    with 30T granny rings. so much easier with a 28T

    I was thinking back to the Old CD 5 bolt fitting cranks.. as they have 30 and 40 as a common size .

    Ah, i'm with you :wink:
  • Cool, cheers lads.

    Think the 2x9 is definitely a more sensible option. I just don't like faffing about with front mechs! It'll be worth it for the better ride I suppose.

    Thighs of steel I have not!
  • adb1006
    adb1006 Posts: 938
    Danielsan wrote:
    Cool, cheers lads.

    Think the 2x9 is definitely a more sensible option. I just don't like faffing about with front mechs! It'll be worth it for the better ride I suppose.

    Thighs of steel I have not!

    It's definitely the better option if you ride a lot of road or hills. I run a 3x9 set-up (just the standard XT rings), and find i go to top ring for road sections, middle for offroad and then granny for any exceptionally steep and long hill climbs. Probably going to drop down to a 2x9 soon though.
  • Try a 36T ring. Many folk use that, it works well, you can still climb, feels fine for most descents, looks cleaner, and run it with a chain guide.
  • Try a 36T ring. Many folk use that, it works well, you can still climb, feels fine for most descents, looks cleaner, and run it with a chain guide.
    Do I need thighs of steel? :)

    That was the kind of size I was thinking about for a 1x9 but it doesn't seem to be a popular option with the other chaps here.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    Danielsan
    visit the your rides part of the forum and have a look at some of the builds in there.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • nicklouse wrote:
    Danielsan
    visit the your rides part of the forum and have a look at some of the builds in there.
    Cool, cheers Nicklouse.
  • holiver
    holiver Posts: 729
    I'm thinking of going 1x9, as I never use the middle and granny ring whilst on my bike, which is in commuter mode at the moment. Is it possible to do so with a 42 or 44 tooth chain ring? I've a Deore chainset on it.
  • Ive just changed my full suspension to 1x9 with a 39T ring on the front. I think the hills would have to be VERY steep to have problems. Dont see why not but you need to move the 40/42T chainring to the middle and align it biased with the gears most used.
  • 1x10?

    11-36 10spd cassettes seem pointless for triple, but on a 1x10 (or 2x10 if big ups/less fit) sounds ideal.

    36 tooth up front gives 1:1 bottom gear to get you up anything you would not walk anyway, and 11:36 will give you lots of speed for fireroad/tarmac.

    Lots of reasonable priced mid level ten speed stuff now available, slx 1x10 should build up cheap and light.
  • andyrm
    andyrm Posts: 550
    I reckon a 34. I've got a 26/36 on my 2x9 setup and a 32 on my singlespeed, so reckon that's probably a sensibleish choice! :D
  • holiver
    holiver Posts: 729
    Is the position of the chainring in a 1x9/10 set up determined solely by clearance with the chainstay on the driveside?
  • Northwind
    Northwind Posts: 14,675
    Double is more practical, that's for sure... I'm really liking my 1x9 with a 32T front and 11-34T cassette though, yes it's hard work in the hills but that's kind of the point! I wanted a bike that makes things needlessly difficult so it has no suspension and not enough gears. If it had a granny ring I'd end up using it.

    But OTOH, I would have had serious difficulties on my week in france without the 22T granny, not so much for steepness, just for the sheer length of the climbs. I don't think I could have made some of them without it. And what's more I'd have felt a right c**k, it was one thing for the guys who couldn't do it just because they weren't fit enough but "I'm fit enough, I've just built a bloody stupid bike" would have been poor.

    But I see it as like singlespeeding- fairly few people who start singlespeeding can just romp up the hills on day one, but because they've got no option but to work that gear they soon get fitter and stronger. Whereas gears make it a bit easier which is good and bad.
    Uncompromising extremist