Chain Suck

RealMan
RealMan Posts: 2,166
edited August 2009 in MTB general
How do I stop it happening?

I've got new chainrings, new chain, and I've shortened the chain as much as possible. Eccentric bottom bracket as well, so I've moved the BB forward so the chain has got plenty of room between chainrings and frame.

Running out of ideas.

Comments

  • cat_with_no_tail
    cat_with_no_tail Posts: 12,981
    Pain in the ars* innit!

    I had the exact same problem a while back, new chain, new rings, new cassette, epic suck in front granny (not too bad cos it rarely ever gets used).

    Mine stopped after I indexed the gears again. Not sure how, or why this worked, but it's been fine ever since so I'm not going to question it.

    Would probably be worth hanging on for some knowledgeable types to come along before running off to fiddle with your indexing though. May well be something dead simple that I missed. Wouldnt be the first time.
  • Milkie
    Milkie Posts: 377
    Stupid question really... Have you degreased and oiled the new chain? I got chain suck on my first test ride, so degreased the chain as it had that horrible thick oil on it, and put on some bike lube and it didnt happen again.
  • ride_whenever
    ride_whenever Posts: 13,279
    Don't de-grease the new chain, it fairly often happens just because the new rings need to mesh with the chain so a little wear needs to happen.

    You want to apply a little thin lube to a rag and wipe the chain over to remove the factory oil from the outside of the chain only.
  • papasmurf.
    papasmurf. Posts: 2,382
    I'd degrease and remove the packing grease from the inside aswell..then lube properly that grease just sucks in grit and dirt and keeps it in.
  • owenlars
    owenlars Posts: 719
    The question of whether to remove factory lube is hotly contested. Sheldon Brown says

    Factory Lube

    New chains come pre-lubricated with a grease-type lubricant which has been installed at the factory. This is an excellent lubricant, and has been made to permeate all of the internal interstices in the chain.
    This factory lube is superior to any lube that you can apply after the fact.

    Some people make the bad mistake of deliberately removing this superior lubricant. Don't do this!

    The factory lubricant all by itself is usually good for several hundred miles of service if the bike is not ridden in wet or dusty conditions. It is best not to apply any sort of lube to a new chain until it is clearly needed, because any wet lube you can apply will dilute the factory lube.
  • Tank-slapper
    Tank-slapper Posts: 968
    It is good lube for road bikes, but it acts like a muck magnet on an MTB. Get rid of it and apply some wax based stuff. Avoid 'wet' lubes as they also trap dirt.
  • papasmurf.
    papasmurf. Posts: 2,382
    whats Sheldon Know anyway :roll:
  • Tank-slapper
    Tank-slapper Posts: 968
    What Sheldon said is right. It is an excellent lube and it is right inside the links where it is needed most. It also lasts for ages. Unfortunately, dirt and grit sticks to as if it was glue.
  • papasmurf.
    papasmurf. Posts: 2,382
    yeah sorry was replying to the post with sheldons stuff in..
    but yeah he does qualify it with not riding in wet or dust..which kinda rules mtb out...though dusty trails are rare round here..
  • ride_whenever
    ride_whenever Posts: 13,279
    Ah, hence i suggested removing it from the outside only. Leave the "good" lube on the inside because it won't suck grit in, it isn't magic... As long as the outside of the chain is fairly dry and clean or lubed up sufficiently to keep most dirt off it, it'll be fine. Generally I use a little gt85 to remove the lube from the outside of the chain and just leave it at that. I seem to get better durability in the mixed clay/sand we have here with a dry chain.
  • Milkie
    Milkie Posts: 377
    Oh god. Not he whole factory oil vs normal lube again. The conclusion last time was on an MTB it attracts dirt therefore increases the wear rate over using a specific chain lube. Or something like that. I swear this debate comes up at least once a year and usually quite heated!
  • papasmurf.
    papasmurf. Posts: 2,382
    well at least is vaguely informative, compared to the usual meta v 5 or helmet v non debates that spring up yearly....or monthly..
  • ride_whenever
    ride_whenever Posts: 13,279
    The results of the debate are kindof irrelevant, it is a case of finding what works for your riding conditions.
  • Milkie
    Milkie Posts: 377
    very true papa... I suppose if I was to moan about the things that come up all the time.... I'd be constantly moaning.. Oh I do... ! BTW I'm not talking about you RealMan

    RealMan, What about the rear mech spring tension? Is it tight enough?

    Checkout this, loads of pages on Chain Suck.
    http://www.mtbbritain.co.uk/chain_suck.html
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Wipe the chain factory lube of the outsides, and keep it on the insides.

    As for chainsuck, chek the teeth for wear, stiff links and your chainline.
  • RealMan
    RealMan Posts: 2,166
    Well I've probably done over 100 miles on it now, which includes the chain being cleaned after every ride, then being lubed. Still sucking though.
  • adb1006
    adb1006 Posts: 938
    What sort of BB do you have? If it's compatible, you could try an E-type (think that's what they're called) front mech - they are supposed to reduce/eradicate chain suck.
  • bellys
    bellys Posts: 456
    i get it all the time new chain rings new chain and new cassestte the every thing is cleaned after a ride and re lubed but i only get it when it very muddy must just be clogging up with crap.

    it piss me off last time as i was out of the seat going up hill with people behind me bang some one hit me from the rear i was clipped in when i picked my self up the rear mech was bent from were the person (this is all i will call them)(tit) hit me.