Chain Suck
RealMan
Posts: 2,166
How do I stop it happening?
I've got new chainrings, new chain, and I've shortened the chain as much as possible. Eccentric bottom bracket as well, so I've moved the BB forward so the chain has got plenty of room between chainrings and frame.
Running out of ideas.
I've got new chainrings, new chain, and I've shortened the chain as much as possible. Eccentric bottom bracket as well, so I've moved the BB forward so the chain has got plenty of room between chainrings and frame.
Running out of ideas.
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Comments
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Pain in the ars* innit!
I had the exact same problem a while back, new chain, new rings, new cassette, epic suck in front granny (not too bad cos it rarely ever gets used).
Mine stopped after I indexed the gears again. Not sure how, or why this worked, but it's been fine ever since so I'm not going to question it.
Would probably be worth hanging on for some knowledgeable types to come along before running off to fiddle with your indexing though. May well be something dead simple that I missed. Wouldnt be the first time.0 -
Stupid question really... Have you degreased and oiled the new chain? I got chain suck on my first test ride, so degreased the chain as it had that horrible thick oil on it, and put on some bike lube and it didnt happen again.0
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Don't de-grease the new chain, it fairly often happens just because the new rings need to mesh with the chain so a little wear needs to happen.
You want to apply a little thin lube to a rag and wipe the chain over to remove the factory oil from the outside of the chain only.0 -
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The question of whether to remove factory lube is hotly contested. Sheldon Brown says
Factory Lube
New chains come pre-lubricated with a grease-type lubricant which has been installed at the factory. This is an excellent lubricant, and has been made to permeate all of the internal interstices in the chain.
This factory lube is superior to any lube that you can apply after the fact.
Some people make the bad mistake of deliberately removing this superior lubricant. Don't do this!
The factory lubricant all by itself is usually good for several hundred miles of service if the bike is not ridden in wet or dusty conditions. It is best not to apply any sort of lube to a new chain until it is clearly needed, because any wet lube you can apply will dilute the factory lube.0 -
It is good lube for road bikes, but it acts like a muck magnet on an MTB. Get rid of it and apply some wax based stuff. Avoid 'wet' lubes as they also trap dirt.0
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What Sheldon said is right. It is an excellent lube and it is right inside the links where it is needed most. It also lasts for ages. Unfortunately, dirt and grit sticks to as if it was glue.0
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Ah, hence i suggested removing it from the outside only. Leave the "good" lube on the inside because it won't suck grit in, it isn't magic... As long as the outside of the chain is fairly dry and clean or lubed up sufficiently to keep most dirt off it, it'll be fine. Generally I use a little gt85 to remove the lube from the outside of the chain and just leave it at that. I seem to get better durability in the mixed clay/sand we have here with a dry chain.0
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Oh god. Not he whole factory oil vs normal lube again. The conclusion last time was on an MTB it attracts dirt therefore increases the wear rate over using a specific chain lube. Or something like that. I swear this debate comes up at least once a year and usually quite heated!0
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The results of the debate are kindof irrelevant, it is a case of finding what works for your riding conditions.0
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very true papa... I suppose if I was to moan about the things that come up all the time.... I'd be constantly moaning.. Oh I do... ! BTW I'm not talking about you RealMan
RealMan, What about the rear mech spring tension? Is it tight enough?
Checkout this, loads of pages on Chain Suck.
http://www.mtbbritain.co.uk/chain_suck.html0 -
Wipe the chain factory lube of the outsides, and keep it on the insides.
As for chainsuck, chek the teeth for wear, stiff links and your chainline.0 -
Well I've probably done over 100 miles on it now, which includes the chain being cleaned after every ride, then being lubed. Still sucking though.0
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What sort of BB do you have? If it's compatible, you could try an E-type (think that's what they're called) front mech - they are supposed to reduce/eradicate chain suck.0
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i get it all the time new chain rings new chain and new cassestte the every thing is cleaned after a ride and re lubed but i only get it when it very muddy must just be clogging up with crap.
it piss me off last time as i was out of the seat going up hill with people behind me bang some one hit me from the rear i was clipped in when i picked my self up the rear mech was bent from were the person (this is all i will call them)(tit) hit me.0