please dont laugh!
daveyj2k9
Posts: 13
hi, you'll all laugh at this like but please remeber im new lol.
ive got abit of wd40 on my disc brakes and now the brakes arent as good (obviously) but it was an accident lol. would thinners be the best to get rid of the oil, its just im worried about ruining my brake pads. cheers!
ive got abit of wd40 on my disc brakes and now the brakes arent as good (obviously) but it was an accident lol. would thinners be the best to get rid of the oil, its just im worried about ruining my brake pads. cheers!
mind that corner its tight, oppps to late!
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Either a specific brake disc cleaner, or isopropyl alcohol. You might find the pads are done in though but the discs should be OK once thoroughly cleaned (a scotchbrite pad can help too just to give the discs a wee buff)Uncompromising extremist0
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ok ill give it a blast, thanks for the advice m8!mind that corner its tight, oppps to late!0
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Oopsie
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lol itll be the last i do it lol. im still waiting for the bike to bed in aswell before its 6 week service so theyll hopefully sort the pads out if they are shot.mind that corner its tight, oppps to late!0
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I'm always amazed at the number of responses to these types of threads, advising the poster that their pads are ruined and need replacing.
On numerous occassions I've got GT85 or WD40 oversprayon my discs. Sure they've not worked brilliantly for the first couple of attempts, but 3 or 4 hard stops has always sorted them out!0 -
try putting them in the own for half hour.... obviously turn the oven on first....--
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Mancunianfightingcat wrote:I'm always amazed at the number of responses to these types of threads, advising the poster that their pads are ruined and need replacing.
Er, there are absolutely none of those in this threadUncompromising extremist0 -
yeah but im new to MTB and i dont know much at all yet about disc brakes, im used to bmx type, just was worried about ruining themmind that corner its tight, oppps to late!0
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I once had cooking oil on my pads.
I've put them in the oven for 30min and they were good to go.
But be ware from the smell.0 -
also u know the chain roller itself, like the 2 rollers above and below the front chainring? is the bracket itself ment to move up and down? god i stink of wd40 aswell lol just removed all the safety stickersmind that corner its tight, oppps to late!0
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Northwind wrote:Mancunianfightingcat wrote:I'm always amazed at the number of responses to these types of threads, advising the poster that their pads are ruined and need replacing.
Er, there are absolutely none of those in this thread
Good, hope it stays that way!0 -
daveyj2k9 wrote:also u know the chain roller itself, like the 2 rollers above and below the front chainring? is the bracket itself ment to move up and down?
Are you talking about the rear mech? I'll assume you are.
There is usually a little bit of play in the area around the bolt into the dropout. check the bolt is tight, usually a 5mm hex stud.
The frame around the two jockey wheels is also meant to move. this allows the rear mech to change up and down to bigger and smaller cogs.
If I've got the wrong end of the stick I apologise, but you need to get a book or read a few websites to learn more about your bike.
Sheldon browns website is good, as is the park tools website. Do a google for both.--
Burls Ti Tourer for Tarmac, Saracen aluminium full suss for trails0 -
daveyj2k9 wrote:also u know the chain roller itself, like the 2 rollers above and below the front chainring? is the bracket itself ment to move up and down?
Are you talking about the rear mech? I'll assume you are.
There is usually a little bit of play in the area around the bolt into the dropout. check the bolt is tight, usually a 5mm hex stud.
The frame around the two jockey wheels is also meant to move. this allows the rear mech to change up and down to bigger and smaller cogs.
If I've got the wrong end of the stick I apologise, but you need to get a book or read a few websites to learn more about your bike.
Sheldon browns website is good, as is the park tools website. Do a google for both.--
Burls Ti Tourer for Tarmac, Saracen aluminium full suss for trails0 -
yeah just looked it up, its called a chain guide lol, ai i have to remove my cranks to tighten the plate up as it seems to be sandwiched between the main cog and bottom bracket, those websites are excellent, cheers m8!mind that corner its tight, oppps to late!0
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Some pads do really feck up when they get oil on them. Sure, try some of the methods out, but if it doesn't cure it, replace them.0
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theres always 1mind that corner its tight, oppps to late!0
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Get the blow torch out and watch the oil drip out of those pads! It's the only way, plus it's fun! :twisted:WTD:
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for those who spend a fortune on brake cleaners and chain sprays e.t.c from people such as muc-off. A much cheaper way is to look on a hardware website such as www.toolstation.com and in the automotive section they sell chain spray, PTFE spray and all the other stuff that you mite want but most importantly they sell disc brake cleaner for about £3.30 for a 400ml can
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