Bad gear combinations - fao supersonic

KnightofCydonia
KnightofCydonia Posts: 957
edited July 2009 in MTB beginners
A while back a question was asked about gear combinations which weren't good on the chain or something along those lines. I remember the thread but can't find it using the search as I can't think of any terms that are specific enough to bring it up.

Wondering if you could tell me which aren't good on wear, I think there were 1 or 2 per each ring on the front? Cheers sir.
Start Weight 18st 13lbs March 2009
17st 10lbs August 2009
17st 4lbs October 2009
15st 12lbs December 2010

Final planned weight 12st 7lbs

Comments

  • alomac
    alomac Posts: 189
    It's obviously not the thread you were after, but this should still help.

    Cheers,
    Adam.
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Basically:

    When in the small ring, use the largest 4 or 5 rear cogs.

    When in the middle you can use all the rear cogs.

    When in the big ring, use the smallest 4 or 5 rear cogs.
  • Middle is good then, I do the majority of my riding in that, if we're counting (27 speed) I'll use 18, 17, 16, 15 & 14 the most, sometimes down to 13/12/11 for long climbs, rarely go down to 1-9 unless I have no choice and only go upto the top ring (whichever one is 19-27) in which case I tend to use 24-27. Trying to work out if they're the ones I shouldn't be using on that? All the small/big/ cog things confuses me, I try not to look down when im riding & just let it do what it does. I'm already very considerate when shifting but just curious on this technique to allow me to just be in the know some more :)

    Thanks Adam too. It's english but doesn't read as such to someone as thick as me in this case :lol:
    Start Weight 18st 13lbs March 2009
    17st 10lbs August 2009
    17st 4lbs October 2009
    15st 12lbs December 2010

    Final planned weight 12st 7lbs
  • .blitz
    .blitz Posts: 6,197
    All the small/big/ cog things confuses me, I try not to look down when im riding & just let it do what it does.
    Best way to think about it is that you are trying to move the chain from side-to-side without changing the chain line too much. Outer ring at the front, outer cogs at the back; inner ring at the front, inner cogs at the back.
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    It sort of becomes second nature and you just get a feel for it.
  • Daz555
    Daz555 Posts: 3,976
    Ghost Busters - do not cross the streams.
    Bicycle - do not cross the chain (too much).

    In general of course it eventually becomes second nature to shift around to keep yourself out of the dodgy gears but knowing that you need to is the first point.

    I'd like to have a go on one of the spangly new setups with only 2 rings up front but 10 at the rear meaning you can use all 20 gears without needing to shift about.
    You only need two tools: WD40 and Duck Tape.
    If it doesn't move and should, use the WD40.
    If it shouldn't move and does, use the tape.
  • SiLanc
    SiLanc Posts: 180
    The advice so far is generally correct, however, you can get away with using the so called bad combinations for short periods of time. Ned Overend (multiple World and National mountain bike champion) advocates the use of big ring\big rear cog for climbing on short sharp climbs.

    Having said that he would be doing that on a bike which would be serviced every few hours so could not get away with it.

    I wouldn't do it all the time, but if I'm trying to beat a personal best or are in a race then maybe I'd do it.

    Si
    Lap by lap analysis, videos, photos, race reports and a map of race locations www.xcenduro.co.uk
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    If you do that, make sure your chain is long enough - or you'll cause a LOT of damage.

    It is quicker and easier to drop down to the middle cog than go through all the gears to the big rear cog.
  • elPedro666
    elPedro666 Posts: 1,060
    Just to add; there's no 'wrong' gears as such (so long as your chain is long enough!), it's just that using big/big or small/small combinations run the chain at more acute angles in relation to the rings, which causes much faster wear-rates.

    There's so much overlap in gear ratios though, that I've switched to 2x9 and find it much simpler/quicker/lighter. Currently 24/38 & 11-32, although a 22t granny & 12-34 block have just arrived for experimentation...

    Would love an XX set up though :shock:
    WTD:
    Green Halo TwinRail
    25.0mm-26.2mm seatpost shim
    Red X-Lite bling
    Specialized ladies BG saddle (white?) 155mm
    RH thumbie
    700x28c CX tyres&tubs
    Flatbars 620mm 25,4mm & swept, ti in an ideal world