Bought chain wear indicator - chain is errrrm worn
salsajake
Posts: 702
As I suspected, the 0.75% bit fell straight in, flipped it over and the 1% bit fell straight in. Oh dear, methinks it will prove expensive. This is the 2nd chain on this drivetrain. I'm going to buy a new chain (as I need one anyway, obviously) but what are the chances of this working with the old drivetrain without replacement of cassette and/or chainrings and/or jockey wheels? I want to upgrade all that lot anyway, just preferably not at once. If there is no chance, I might just leave the old chain on and continue to run into a paste until it starts slipping, but will have to start saving for the inevitable now! Nothing looks too worn/shark finny etc, but I know the chances are slim bearing in mind it is worse than 1%...
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salsajake wrote:As I suspected, the 0.75% bit fell straight in, flipped it over and the 1% bit fell straight in. Oh dear, methinks it will prove expensive. This is the 2nd chain on this drivetrain. I'm going to buy a new chain (as I need one anyway, obviously) but what are the chances of this working with the old drivetrain without replacement of cassette and/or chainrings and/or jockey wheels? I want to upgrade all that lot anyway, just preferably not at once. If there is no chance, I might just leave the old chain on and continue to run into a paste until it starts slipping, but will have to start saving for the inevitable now! Nothing looks too worn/shark finny etc, but I know the chances are slim bearing in mind it is worse than 1%...
If its past the 1% mark then you are already stuffed. A new chain will need a new cassette (chainrings you might get away with). Keep running it until you have saved up enough to replace it with what you want. In my experience you can go for 1000s of miles after a chain is that worn with no problems (other than increased chain wear). Just keep an eye on the teeth and the chain to make sure its no getting too fragile.
Mike0 -
^^^ wot he said
run the drivetrain into the ground and replace the whole lot (rings, chain, cassette and jockey wheels) in one go0 -
Cool, at least I'll get lots more miles out of it and I have the tool to make sure it doesn't happen again! Time to start putting a wish list together then...0
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My chain had the exact same problem... and apparently it's eating my sprockets!
Nice bike shop man said a new drive train 'would be like night and day' to my ride quality.0 -
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ride_whenever wrote:yeah and you'll go at least 4mph faster too :roll:
Really? Excellent!
I'm aware that you're joking, but if it gets rid of the current grindy badness I'm all for it - replacing the drivetrain is not overly expensive on the FG.0 -
lost_in_thought wrote:I'm aware that you're joking, but if it gets rid of the current grindy badness I'm all for it - replacing the drivetrain is not overly expensive on the FG.
If you have got to the stage of grindy badness you are way over the 1% worn line. Grindy badness is normally the point at which I replace things.
Mike0 -
lost_in_thought wrote:ride_whenever wrote:yeah and you'll go at least 4mph faster too :roll:
Really? Excellent!
I'm aware that you're joking, but if it gets rid of the current grindy badness I'm all for it - replacing the drivetrain is not overly expensive on the FG.
As opposed to my triple set-up. Toying with if I can get away with a double (I want to dump lots of weight from the Jake if I can), but I do like the granny ring at times when the panniers are full, or when the nipper is sitting in his seat on the back. Its a new thread in its own right, but any ideas as to a good value lightweight triple crankset?0 -
when i was running ss on deore hubs i use to kill the freehub before i got to the grind stage!!!!
well apart from when the chain was catching on the bashguard...0 -
salsajake wrote:As opposed to my triple set-up. Toying with if I can get away with a double (I want to dump lots of weight from the Jake if I can), but I do like the granny ring at times when the panniers are full, or when the nipper is sitting in his seat on the back. Its a new thread in its own right, but any ideas as to a good value lightweight triple crankset?
That does add to the cost doesn't it.
Thats why I like to get to the ground down stage. before replacing things. You may have to buy everything but on the kind of usage I get out of things it still works out cheaper than replacing the chain religiously as soon as it gets worn.
BTW I've got a double equipped Jake the Snake and I get on fine with it on the hills of Bath. Where do you ride?
Switching from triple to double on a road bike can be mighty expensive you need a new front derailleur and potentially a new right lever.
Mike0 -
When I was cleaning my bike last night I noticed for the first time how worn many of the teeth on the big ring are - but only in line with the pedals. I can't feel anything out of order when I ride but clearly there's been a lot of wear in 2700 odd miles. Makes me wish I'd spent more time in the little ring. (not really - MTFU and all that).0
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you might find that the teeth were always slightly lower in those areas, to help chain pick up and drop off when you change gear. Then again, 2700 miles is always going to cause lots of wear everywhere I guess.0
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mudcovered wrote:
BTW I've got a double equipped Jake the Snake and I get on fine with it on the hills of Bath. Where do you ride?
Mike
Midlands, but sometimes take the little one to forest tracks etc on it and of course he will only get heavier and heavier! Think I'll stick with the triple.
As I'm likely to replace the crankset (FSA MegaExo OE), I'm thinking of going from a 170mm crank to a 175mm. I don't need the extra clearance as I don't do CX racing, and the BB is quite high anyway I think. I just don't get the leg extension I do on my Trek what with the high BB and the 170mm cranks (I can't really put the saddle up any higher) and I think it is impeding the amount of power I can put into the stroke. Does that sound crazy?0 -
These chain wair indicators seem a bit cautious if you ask me. I replaced a thoroughly worn chain with a new one and had no slipping problems or anything. I even bought a new cassette just in case it needed replacing; now sitting in storage until the old one wears away completely.Shazam !!0
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That makes sense. The only load I haul is myself. If I was towing children around on trails I'd want a triple as well even if the going is quite flat.salsajake wrote:Midlands, but sometimes take the little one to forest tracks etc on it and of course he will only get heavier and heavier! Think I'll stick with the triple.As I'm likely to replace the crankset (FSA MegaExo OE), I'm thinking of going from a 170mm crank to a 175mm. I don't need the extra clearance as I don't do CX racing, and the BB is quite high anyway I think. I just don't get the leg extension I do on my Trek what with the high BB and the 170mm cranks (I can't really put the saddle up any higher) and I think it is impeding the amount of power I can put into the stroke. Does that sound crazy?
It seems a little crazy as we are talking about a 5mm difference in length which doesn't seem likely to make a lot of difference to leg extension as you could easilly soak that sort of range up with a bit of ankle flex.
The crank length on my jake is 172.5 and on my MTBs its 175. I never even noticed this when I first got the Jake. I didn't even find out until the BB wore out and I had to fit a new one. However if you are getting a new crank then give it a go. Either it will work for you or you will be no worse off than you were before.0
