How do you choose & fit susp.forks for a rigid?

helen984

I have a rigid Hardrock XC 2005 and want to put a reeeeeaaallly basic set of forks on, just to absorb bumps, purely on a 'comfort' level. I'm confused though...what do I need to look for? The techno spiel means nothing to me! LOL. Also are they easy to fit? (I'm used to stripping and maintaining my own bikes so I am quite capable of undertaking most jobs myself)

This is the full spec of my bike so if anyone could point me in the right direction I'd be very grateful!

FRAME A1 Premium Aluminum, 3D box gusset HT/DT, TT gusset, forged dropouts with eyelets and replaceable hanger, designed for 80mm travel fork

FORK Cr-Mo blade rigid fork built to 80mm travel suspension fork dimensions

HEADSET 1 1/8� threadless, sealed loose ball, alloy cap

STEM Alloy, 15 degree rise

HANDLEBARS Specialized alloy, 38mm rise, 9 degree sweep

TAPE / GRIPS Specialized double density Kraton

FRONT BRAKE Tektro �V�, linear spring, stainless steel pipe

REAR BRAKE Tektro �V�, linear spring, stainless steel pipe

BRAKE LEVERS Shimano Altus

FRONT DERAILLEUR Shimano Acera, 31.8mm clamp, bottom pull

REAR DERAILLEUR Shimano Acera

SHIFT LEVERS Shimano Altus

CASSETTE Shimano MF-HG50, 8-speed, 11x32t

CHAIN Shimano IG-31

CRANKSET Truvativ ISO-Flow, alloy, capless bolts

CHAINRINGS 42t Cr-Mo x 32t heat treated Cr-Mo x 22t heat treated Cr-Mo, replaceable

BOTTOM BRACKET Shimano UN-25, square taper, 68 x 113mm, sealed cartridge

PEDALS Dual sided, composite body, steel cage, toe clip compatible

RIMS Alex DM-20, 26"x1.5", double wall, machined side wall, black

FRONT HUBJoy-Tech, 32 hole, ground race double sealed loose ball with steel QR

REAR HUB Shimano RM-40, 32 hole, sealed cassette with steel QR

SPOKES 2.0mm (14g) stainless steel, brass nipples, L267/R267mm front, L266/R264mm rear

FRONT TIRE Specialized Enduro Sport, 26"x2.0", wire bead

REAR TIRE Specialized Enduro Sport, 26"x2.0", wire bead

TUBES Specialized schraeder valve

SADDLE Specialized Body Geometry Sport ATB

SEAT POST Alloy 30.9mmx300/350mm, micro adjust

SEAT BINDER Alloy QR, 36mm I.D.

NOTES Chain stay protector, reflectors, clear coat, owners manual

Whytepeak

How much do you want to spend on the forks?

nicklouse

Ok you want to look for a 80/100 XC for with V brake bosses, unless you are thinking of changing to disc brakes.

how to fit a fork http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=111

what fork maybe try in the buying section.

any specific tech problems with the fitting ask away.

elPedro666

I've just changed from rigid Project2s to a set of Maverick SC32s, and it's not such a bad job, plus you can give your headset a service at the same time!

Only thing you can't do in the lounge is re-fit the headset bottom race to the new forks (unless you just happen to have a tube of exactly the right size to hit it with - about 1 3/16"!) - you're local shop can do this in about 11seconds & I can't imagine them charging for it! Although I usually like to ask favours whilst I'm buying something else

Tragically, I photo-documented the whole process, just incase it was handy for someone on here (that, plus it was a momentous day for my bike!); I'll send them over if you like, but it'll be a few days before I get chance.

If you're literally just looking for comfort then I guess it's not such a big decision, but I have to say I've not found that much difference - I'm just going faster for the same battering!

Coil springs are going to be more reactive to the smaller bumps, and probably give you a wider choice at the lower price points as well, so that's a good start. I guess bouncing on a few and picking the ones with the least stiction (the force needed to get them moving - NOT the spring stiffness) is probably the best way to choose for comfort.

If you're not going to thrash them you can err toward a softer spring as well, without worrying about the bottom-out too much.

Hope that helps, as it's long, boring read otherwise!

helen984

Thanks guys, its starting to make more sense!

I'm not planning to fit disks: the bike is going in about a year anyway (when we get a bigger house with a garage we're investing in some really decent bikes) so I'm just after very cheap forks to replace the rigid ones for the time being. I went on a ride with three other people today and all of them had front shocks, as a result they found it easier to shoot over the uneven bits, I had to slow down for fear of breaking my arms...and knees and ended up trailing behind...lol

elPedro666

Just a thought, but plan B (there's a C as well, if you've the patience) could be just fitting a fat - and I really do mean FAT - front tyre, I honestly reckon that will give you as much, if not more, comfort, for less cash, with lots of extra traction as an added bonus.

Rotating weight (as oppose to the additional static weight of the forks) and potential extra drag are the downsides, but something like a 2.4 Continental Mountain King would probably even save you weight!

Halo used to do a 3" front called the Contra, not sure if it's still available, plus the Nokian Gazzalodi(?) and Surly spring to mind.

Other option is get a really good fork & transfer to to your new bike next year - that way your money's not wasted!

One last, but probably much more salient point: Relax! Loosen your grip on the bars, push your elbows out, let your knees go 'baggy' and let the bike move underneath you; a well ridden rigid bike will be within a whisker of a hardtail - or even full-suss - on all but the very roughest of tracks if you can learn to let it run. Then, when you transfer those skills to your next bike you'll be amazing, thrashing all your friends everywhere!

This has been my plan for ten years...