Is my bike too heavy for XC?

I have a 2009 Cube LTD Pro Hardtail which I purchased in Feb at a cost of £800. The bike is great, however I have made a few minor adjustments to aid my cycling. I have swapped the stock Rock Shox Tora SL 80mm for Rock Shox Recon U Turn 100mm forks and I have also added a slightly more padded seat as the original was absolute torture.
The bike weights in at 28.9lbs. Is this about right for a XC ride, I know it sounds stupid but I need to know if its worth me spending moeny on carbon parts etc to shave off weight or is that about right for a mid range XC hard tail?
If it is a realistic option to remove weight where do I start? I would like to get to the 25lb mark ideally.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
The bike weights in at 28.9lbs. Is this about right for a XC ride, I know it sounds stupid but I need to know if its worth me spending moeny on carbon parts etc to shave off weight or is that about right for a mid range XC hard tail?
If it is a realistic option to remove weight where do I start? I would like to get to the 25lb mark ideally.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
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Posts
The best place to save weight is rotating mass wheels and tires I'm sure you can save 2LB there alone
as above, tyres are a good & cheap option, wheelset, forks, pedals, weight can hide in lots of places
shaving 4 lbs could be expensive though
Cheers
I believe my inbred to be around 25lbs
Carbon 456
456 lefty
Pompino
White Inbred
yes it is im at a point now where its at about £1 for 1g of saved weight
Carbon 456
456 lefty
Pompino
White Inbred
im at 21LB for a FS
Carbon 456
456 lefty
Pompino
White Inbred
Looking at other ways you can save weight - ie from yourself, not carrying things you could do without, stripping all "non-essential" kit from the bike (mudguards, reflectors etc) - will probably make a lot more sense. If you must replace something, go for the wheels, as the rotating mass effectively doubles the weight savings. Your tyres are pretty light if they're the regular and not tubless versions, so I don't think there is much you could save on there.
Just go out, have fun, and start saving for the carbon HT! - or find somewhere to borrow the money like me!
Gary Fisher HKEK (for commuting)
wheelset, forks, cranks, seatpost, saddle, stem and bars, unless you get in some bargian spotting on ebay it's going to cost you a fair wedge!
a heavy bike is no bad thing, get out and enjoy it for what it is!
After all, I am Cornish!
http://cornwallmtb.kk5.org/
Cotic Soul, The bike of Legends!
http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtop ... 1#16297481
I'm racing this season on a 33 lb bike (DiamondBack) and am a competitive mid field runner, but get stuffed on the climbs.
I'm planning to get a new lighter bike for next year, which will give me a bit more oomph... but I'm having a great time this season.
If you're planning on racing, one thing to remember is that you are very unlikely to win a race (at least for now) and you need fitness, strategy and skill, all of which can be built up using your heavier machine (which is >10% lighter than mine!).
The GT
Reminds me of the time I entered my first XC race (sport category) with my 35lb Claud Butler in 1995 or thereabouts. On the climbs I was being slaughtered by some racing snake on an Orange C16 R with if I recall full XTR. The old Butler was like a Hovis bike. I was dying a death on the hills
My Boardman HT is 29lbs and really feels light when i jump on it. Still prefer my Trance though & friends with other lighter bikes get tired just the same.
They wouldn't see me coming if my bike was sub 25lb - can't wait for the next purchase LOL
Giant Trance 3
Scott G-Zero FX
I would concentrate on your technique, as that can shave minutes of your times and has far more benefits than a lighter bike
bing bong
rotational weight is key
light wheels and tyres are the way to go
a 1 lbs saving on rotational weight is the equivalent to about saving 4 or 5 lbs on the rest of the bike
honestly i have tried different weight tyres and the difference is instantly noticable
my riding:
http://www.youtube.com/user/rhyspect
Some of my Rides Data/maps:
http://www.trimbleoutdoors.com/Users/527337
it probably would be even lighter but the tubes have puncture stopping gel stuff in them- was probably a bad idea- means lots of rotating weight i suppose.
Seriously though mate, don't upgrade anything YET. Do races, and enduro's, as your bike doesn't weigh the earth. It's also a hardtail, so it's quite efficient.
I race, quite competitively on my massive 6.5'' full sus Intense 6.6!!! THATS hard work, but the amount of people I can still beat round courses on carbon hardtails is unreal!
It's not what you ride, it's how. So 'pay your dues' here, with a heavier bike, and SAVE. Save like mad, then in a few months, perhaps the start of next years race season, or a bit before, treat yourself to a slick, uber light, uber efficient race machine. Over this season, and winter, you'll have worked hard enough to get very fit, and very strong, so jumping on a lighter bike will be like hitting the turbo button for the climbs!
You know it makes sence!
<<<EDIT>>> Might I just say that my bike weighs around 37lbs... 8)
Sick to the power of rad
Fix it 'till it's broke
I persevered for a year and then moved on to a Scott Scale 10
Si
Also, weight loss from the belly is much cheaper than on the bike.
anything sub 30lbs is fine so rock on...
Carbon 456
456 lefty
Pompino
White Inbred