new chain
projectsome
Posts: 4,010
Comments
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I got the silver one and its great.
Like it so much I bought the SL for 26.00 off merlin.0 -
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You'll need a chain splitter to remove any excess links0
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The chain will come with a few links more than the average bike will need, the number of links depends upon the length of your chain stays, the size of the largest gears you have, and the length of the rear mech.
Two ways of determining chain length:
1) Without threading through the mech, put the chain around the large chain ring and largest sprocket, add 2 links.
2) Threaded through mech, put the chain on the large chain ring and the smallest sprocket, the chain length is correct when the two jockey wheels in the mech are in vertical alignment.
A chain tool is an essential to carry on the trails in my opinion, if your chain breaks you need it to remove twisted links and to rejoin the chain (although taking a spare quick link is better for rejoining).0 -
Or just use your old chain and lay it along side, thats what I do0
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It is easier, but assumes the chain was the correct length in the first place (even if fitted by the bike shop I wouldn't count on it), however it was presumably working okay.0
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This is LBS poop!! A lot of them try this one on, and try and sell a cassette with every new chain!
Yes, if the chain has stretched (worn) TOO much, the cassette will be too worn and the new chain will skip over it. If it hasn't it will work fine. Generally speaking, if the chain is changed before it is too worn, one would expect to get through 3 chains before needing a cassette change. I would suggest trying the new chain, if it works, great, if it skips THEN buy the cassette.0 -
By the way, I reckon the KMC X9 from Merlin Cycles at £15.99 is the best value - they work perfectly, and I wouldn't spend £10 more for a 20g weight saving or a fancy gold colour.0
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projectsome wrote:just phoned my lbs. said if I'm buying a new chain then I'd need a new cassette?
I don't remember getting a new cassette the last time.
FFS, how many bike shops try this old one! They have no idea if you need a new cassette until they have seen your old one!
If you change your chain regularly and before it is worn 0.75% then you don't need to change the cassette. There are simple tools (cost a fiver) that you can use to keep tabs on your chain wear so you can change it before it it's too late.
Any idea how many miles you put in on your old chain?0 -
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projectsome wrote:just phoned my lbs. said if I'm buying a new chain then I'd need a new cassette?0
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Basically, if the chain was completely worn out so will the cassette be. If the chain was replaced in time, which basically means before it seems worn out to most people, then the cassette may well be fine. To be fair, it's pretty common, but there's no way they can know whether or not you need a new one- some are just on a rip-off, but others will have learned from experience that by the time someone pops in and says "I need a new chain" it'll be so overdue that the cassette is done too- most cyclists don't replace a chain til it breaks or is corroded solid ot it's so stretched that it skips, since up til that point they just don't think it's worn out. Chain checker tool ftw
Remember when checking lengths that the old chain will have stretched, so it's possible that it'll be longer than it should be- I just recently replaced the chain on my brother's commuter and the chain had grown by the equivalent of a whole pair of links, so I almost fitted a too-long chain. Schoolboy error but it's easily done.
PS, only Mr T should have a gold chainUncompromising extremist0 -
projectsome wrote:I refused to buy a new cassette. I told them there was nothing wrong with it.
Sheldon Brown provides this picture showing a new chain on a worn sprocket, there is daylight between links and cassette, indicating the cassette has worn too much.
A chain checker can be bought for £4.99 from Chainreactioncycles, you can then check your new chain and replace before it is too worn.0