Frame size problem, change needed?
Danielsan
Posts: 35
Ok, so I took a risk last year on a BeOne Aspire 2.0 from CRC, obviously couldn't test ride it but the spec seemed good for the money.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=14964
I bought a 20.5" frame as the measurements I took from me seemed to fit in with the guidance on CRC. I'm now wishing I didn't. Having been able to really test this baby out recently, it rides really well but is just, well, too big for me! I'm 6'1" by the way.
So, is it worth changing the frame and transferring the components over, upgrading certain bits over the near future? Or should I put this one down to learning from mistakes and get myself a new bike completely?
Thoughts anyone?
Cheers.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=14964
I bought a 20.5" frame as the measurements I took from me seemed to fit in with the guidance on CRC. I'm now wishing I didn't. Having been able to really test this baby out recently, it rides really well but is just, well, too big for me! I'm 6'1" by the way.
So, is it worth changing the frame and transferring the components over, upgrading certain bits over the near future? Or should I put this one down to learning from mistakes and get myself a new bike completely?
Thoughts anyone?
Cheers.
0
Comments
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If the frame is the same, then yes. But is different, very hard to judge how it will size up - they vary so much, even for a listed size. Plus many parts may not even fit.0
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Hi
I would sell ur bike and get a new one that fits you. From a shop where you can try it out for size
Im 6'1", with a 33" inner leg and I ride an 18" (medium) Boardman. Seatpost is virtually as high as it can go, but the more compact frame feels better 8)
SiWhy has my sig been removed by the admins???0 -
Thanks for your replies chaps.
The fact that many parts wouldn't fit was always a concern and for that I agree that getting a new steed would probably be the best idea. I suppose that's always the problem of buying online, even when the deal is too hard to resist!
I'll stick with it for the time being I think until I've saved up enough for a new bike. Shame, as the BeOne really is a lovely bike for the price.0 -
It's not impossible to change the frame for reasonable money, the bits that might not fit are seatpost & collar, BB, forks (if the steerer's been cut too short for the new headtube - worth checking this before buying I'd say!). Also worth checking it's a 'normal' headtube (1 1/8"), not oversize, and 'normal' (135mm) rear axle spacing (which I'm assuming yours is...).
With a bit of care you can minimise this to post & maybe collar and finish up with the frame of your choice.
I'm hugely biased though, as the frame is the be-all & end-all of any build for me, the rest is (almost) disposable.
Happy hunting!WTD:
Green Halo TwinRail
25.0mm-26.2mm seatpost shim
Red X-Lite bling
Specialized ladies BG saddle (white?) 155mm
RH thumbie
700x28c CX tyres&tubs
Flatbars 620mm 25,4mm & swept, ti in an ideal world0 -
Another vote for selling up and starting from scratch. This time, get out and test ride some bikes and get measured properly.I ride like a girl
Start: 16.5.x Now: 14.10.8 Goal: 11.7.x
www.ditchwitch.me.uk
www.darksnow.co.uk
Specialized HardRock Pro Disc 040 -
Frame sizing seems to so different for different bikes! I love small frames, my last bike was a 17" and I am 5'11", 13.5 stone. I bought a Hifi Pro a couple of weeks ago and the 17.5 felt too small, so I went with the 19". I've reduced the stem from a 105mm to 70mm and it fits much better nowAdam.
Never underestimate the predictability of stupidity.
Current ride - Yeti ASR 5a X00