Audax bike build
duckfoot1606
Posts: 89
Well folks I have taken the plunge and bought a frame and fork package (Ribble) to build an audax bike (I want to do my first 200miler this autumn). Commone sense (I think!) suggests buying a complete groupset (Mirage/Tiagra level) and probably handbuilt wheels for the build itself, but I may still go the Heinz 57 route and do something of a mix and match, as far as is possible. I am wrestling with a few questions and need some help as follows (bearing in mind I need reliability more than speed);
Brakes. These need to be 57mm deep drops, but all of the standard groupsets seem to use short drop calipers?. Any one know anything different?.
Drive. I don't want to reignite the Campag/Shimano debate, its been done to death before!!. But am I correct to believe that although shifters and mech's need to be from the same OEM, I can use any chainset and it will work with either OEM's shifter?. What about the cassette/chain?. I am more or less sold on the idea of going the compact double route, with a wide range 9 speed block.
I am a big heavy git (105kg) so are there factory wheels that are likely to stand up to this, or are handbuilts the right way to go?. Harry Rowland seems to be 'the man' if I go the handbuilt route
Opinions/details please, folks.
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Brakes. These need to be 57mm deep drops, but all of the standard groupsets seem to use short drop calipers?. Any one know anything different?.
Drive. I don't want to reignite the Campag/Shimano debate, its been done to death before!!. But am I correct to believe that although shifters and mech's need to be from the same OEM, I can use any chainset and it will work with either OEM's shifter?. What about the cassette/chain?. I am more or less sold on the idea of going the compact double route, with a wide range 9 speed block.
I am a big heavy git (105kg) so are there factory wheels that are likely to stand up to this, or are handbuilts the right way to go?. Harry Rowland seems to be 'the man' if I go the handbuilt route
Opinions/details please, folks.
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Comments
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Brake drop is set by the frame design - how much further than the 311mm radius of a wheel is the dropout to brake mounting hole distance? Looking at the audax/winter frames on the Ribble site, the sloping top tube Ribble says 57mm brakes, the horizontal top tube Ribble says "up to 700x23", which will probably mean 49mm brakes. The Tifosi doesn't give any clues so you'd have to ask.
Shifters, mechs and cassettes should normally be of the same brand (ie Shimano/SRAM or Campag), and that means the rear wheel freehub too.
There are however various ways of allowing a degree of mixture.
a) Campag 10-speed ergos work Shimano 8 with a Shimano mech perfectly, or Shimano 9 if you clamp the shift cable Hubbub fashion.
b) Jtek Shiftmates are available in several models to allow mixing Campag and Shimano.
c) there are cassettes that allow using the "wrong" freehub (eg Campag spacing with Shimano splines) - Marchisio, Mavic, Miche, Ambrosio.
Note that "Quickshift" Mirage and Tiagra front shifters don't have the fine trim available on most other Campag front shifters, so should be used with matching front mechs.
Chainsets are pretty much free choice, but should you be so old hat as to prefer square taper for long lasting BBs, note than Shimano and Campag tapers are very slightly different so it's better to stick to the correct type of BB (ISO or JIS) for your chainset.
I build my own wheels, so no opinion other than to agree that Harry Rowland has a good reputation.
The only comment I'd make is that the fewer spokes there are in a wheel, the further out of true it goes if one breaks. 36 spokes will generally allow you to continue to ride without doing more than slackening the brake adjuster a bit, and fewer than 28 can leave the bike unrideable as the wheel won't go between the chainstays. There's also the issue of non-standard nipples on some factory wheels which can make problems difficult to deal with.0 -
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A few features I wouldn't want to be without on an Audax bike:
Triple chainset - I use 30/42/52 and 12-27. You NEED low gears for big climbs towards the end of 300Km + rides.
A good fit and comfortable position.
Good saddle - I have a Brooks Team Pro now but have happily ridden 600s on a Terry Liberator. Don't underestimate the break-in period for a Brooks - around 1000Km for a Team pro IME.
A Dynohub, preferably Schmidt, and preferably powering an Edelux lamp.
Mudguards.
Tubus rack and decent rackpack. (Arkel in my case) IMHO the weight penalty is more than justified by the practicality and reliability of using a rack. Many manage with just big pouches or saddlebags though.
Decent bar padding and gloves - Specialized Bar Phat and BG gloves are very good.
32f/36r spoke handbuilt wheels - preferably learn how to build the m yourself so you can fix them in the field if you have to.
Best of luck and I look forward to seeing your name in the SR list next year!!0 -
Folks
Thanks very much for your thoughts, for simplicities (compatabilities?.) sake I will go the groupset/handbuilt wheel route, I just need to get the brakes switched to long drop (the frame is the Ribble sloping geometry Winter/Audax jobby), does anyone have personal experience with Tektro R536AG?. Any other recommendation on deep drop stoppers?.
I am curious about the comment on BB's, what is the view on cartridge vs external BB's, looking at reliability, ease of maintenance and weight?.
Regards
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duckfoot1606 wrote:I just need to get the brakes switched to long drop (the frame is the Ribble sloping geometry Winter/Audax jobby)
Ribble Winter/Audax frames don't need/use long drop brakes0 -
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whyamihere wrote:
They are obviously lying because none of the frames I've seen do. My friends bike that came on Thursday definitely has standard drop Veloce brakes, and mine doesn't either mine has Standard drop Centaur brakes.
The brake pads on mine are in the middle of the adjustment, so added drop would mean I wouldn't be able to get the brake pads to line up with the breaking surface on any rim.0 -
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duckfoot1606 wrote:does anyone have personal experience with Tektro R536AG?.
the Tektros are 'ok' - nothing more. I have them on my winter bike and they will stop you - but not that quickly....0 -
Easy fella's, am only looking for advice!
Anyone got thoughts on long drop stoppers that actually work?0 -
duckfoot1606 wrote:Folks
Thanks very much for your thoughts, for simplicities (compatabilities?.) sake I will go the groupset/handbuilt wheel route, I just need to get the brakes switched to long drop (the frame is the Ribble sloping geometry Winter/Audax jobby), does anyone have personal experience with Tektro R536AG?. Any other recommendation on deep drop stoppers?.
I am curious about the comment on BB's, what is the view on cartridge vs external BB's, looking at reliability, ease of maintenance and weight?.
Regards
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I have a set of Tektro long drop here doing nothing after someone changed their mind ona project. PM me if you want to make me an offer for them, but be quick as I'm off to Egypt for a fortnight tomorrow. I have a set on my pub bike and they are as good as the Shimano 600 series ones on my audax bike, i.e. very powerful when set up correctly.0 -
duckfoot1606 wrote:Easy fella's, am only looking for advice!
Anyone got thoughts on long drop stoppers that actually work?
I think Shimano's offering on the deep drop front were on some of the Paris Roubaix bikes feature on this site, if it's good enough for big George!!!!
SJS seem to have a lot of stuff for your bearded Audaxer:
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product.asp? ... rc=froogle0 -
duckfoot1606 wrote:Anyone got thoughts on long drop stoppers that actually work?
The only Shimano kit on any of my bikes are the long drop brakes on my Audax (Ribble) winter commuter they are ace!!!! With a fantastic long lasting finish. Mine, about 5 years old were RX 100's these have been superceded but you can still get a decent equivalent I think.
These seem to be the ones:
http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php ... b0s100p5110 -
Right the frame has duly arrived and I have a question. For £110 I am prepared to accept rough and ready but a quick visual audit has thrown up a concern about the chainstays.
About two inches away from where they join the BB shell there is a horizontal brace between the two stays; no problem there, but then a further inch or two back towards the drop outs both stays are flattened vertically to some extent. The right hand stay is flattened both inside and out, for about 40cm whilst the left hand stay is flattened on the inside only, again for 40cm. It looks odd, although as I said above I am happy to accept rough and ready at the price, but is it safe?.Any other owners see this effect on their frame?. Should I be worried?.
Tks
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Pics?Say... That's a nice bike..
Trax T700 with Lew Racing Pro VT-1 ;-)0 -
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Well you learn a new thing everyday :oops: , many thanks reddragon!! I have to say this is the first time I have seen a bare frame up close and personal, a bit like a sheep thats been sheared don't look like a sheep.
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I have got Shimano long drop brakes on my Racelight Tk and they are pretty good. The rest of the groupset is 105 so I assume they are of similar quality. No idea of the model no.
Wot reddd said about the chainstays.0 -
duckfoot1606 wrote:Well you learn a new thing everyday :oops: , many thanks reddragon!! I have to say this is the first time I have seen a bare frame up close and personal, a bit like a sheep thats been sheared don't look like a sheep.
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'twas only a guess though, it's hard to say without seeing any pictures. You'll know as soon as you put a wheel in though whether or not the frame has been mashed.0 -
I have Shimano R650 long drop brakes on my audax bike. They stop fine with Koolstop Salmons. The original blocks were like ice cubes. The only problem I have with them is that the centreing adjusting screw seems to be siezed on both front and rear from new. I should have sent them back but I was too keen to get the bike on the road.I have only two things to say to that; Bo***cks0
