Not convinced about Disc Brakes

I am just not convinced that Discs are as good as rim brakes...for the following reasons
Our tandem has Shimano Hydraulic disc back and front along with an additional Magura HS33 rim brake for the stoker....the HS33 is way better than the two disc brakes
Secondly, I have a Ridgeback Dual track 29er Hydraulic with Shimano discs back and front....hmmmm they are not bad, but again I have two other bikes one fitted with standard V brakes, actually you cant get this type anymore...they have a modulator built in to the V brake arm ...shimano brand...really good(the old post type blocks which are easier to adjust IMO) and another with HS33 rim brakes....again, I think the rim brakes are at least as good if not better
I tend to use the old post type V brakes as the blocks are cheaper and easier to adjust, and apart from the "they wear your rim out" argument, I cant see discs are any better really....and usually not as good as Magura rim brakes...even.good cable V brakes seem just as good even in the wet, I can get a pair of meaty V brake blocke (post style) for 99p from a local shop...and they dont wipe out the rims as many claim they do
The other Killer for me is the price of Disc brake pads, they are so expensive, nearly the same price as car or motorcycle pads...crazy....what a ripoff, cycling should not cost a fortune IMO ......anyone else feel the same
Our tandem has Shimano Hydraulic disc back and front along with an additional Magura HS33 rim brake for the stoker....the HS33 is way better than the two disc brakes
Secondly, I have a Ridgeback Dual track 29er Hydraulic with Shimano discs back and front....hmmmm they are not bad, but again I have two other bikes one fitted with standard V brakes, actually you cant get this type anymore...they have a modulator built in to the V brake arm ...shimano brand...really good(the old post type blocks which are easier to adjust IMO) and another with HS33 rim brakes....again, I think the rim brakes are at least as good if not better
I tend to use the old post type V brakes as the blocks are cheaper and easier to adjust, and apart from the "they wear your rim out" argument, I cant see discs are any better really....and usually not as good as Magura rim brakes...even.good cable V brakes seem just as good even in the wet, I can get a pair of meaty V brake blocke (post style) for 99p from a local shop...and they dont wipe out the rims as many claim they do
The other Killer for me is the price of Disc brake pads, they are so expensive, nearly the same price as car or motorcycle pads...crazy....what a ripoff, cycling should not cost a fortune IMO ......anyone else feel the same
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however, if I paid something like £100 for the bike then i'm not really gonna spend that much on disc brakes and will happily go for some v brakes.
Also I have only change the pads once a year for £20 ish, and as long as you wear them in tehy will last the avearge x country/trail user ages.
Once set up the Avids are hassle free in both wet and dry, were as when the road bike rims get wet the brakes go down the toilet.
I also ride the MTB with my son on the back, on a child seat and the extra weight does not even effect the brakes.
I have used my mates bike with cheap deore disks and thought they lacked power, but even my old hayes sole were more powerful than my exeperiance of rims.
Have you tried bigger disks to increase power ?
I will have to take another look at my disc brake set up then, as thay really dont seem that great to me....but I respect your opinion and it might just be something to do with my set ups
work in the wet too
But add a bit of mud and thats out the window. If I was building on a budget I'd consider rim brakes.
14 Kona Unit
Kona Kula SS
Trailstar SS
94 Univega Alpina 5.3
so power has little to do with braking once you get to a certain level of performance, if that makes sense
My roadster has Magura HS33 hydraulic squeezers and, man those brakes are incredible. They have so much feel to them and can stop my commuter on a dime in the dry or wet.
They are better than the Hayes HFX9 units with 160mm rotors on my Kona. However they don't quite match up to the Juicys on my Felt with 185F/160R rotors.
Also the cost of brake blocks vs. pads isn't really debatable in my book, I don't mind paying £15 (triple to what Magura HS33 blocks cost) for a set EBC pads for the Avid or Hayes brakes knowing that these are life and limb components.
I think the main advantage of discs are that they feel very consistent and are lighter, but having the caliper and rotor down at axle level lowers the centre of gravity which is a good design principle.
Lastly, the most annoying thing about rim brakes of any type is the feedback a slightly buckled or untrue rum feeds back to the brake lever.. fortunately you'll never experience that with disc brakes
The Shaker
I rode my mates V's down the downhill course here I got to the bottom they had gone, well he needed new padsa anyway.
I rode the same hill 30 mins later on my 203's and guess what still there lol.
Discs are the way forward no doubt, the diffrence between cable and V's is a little more difficult, but Hyd > V's every time.
Sabrina
Your comparing censored disc brakes with good v brakes, there won't be much difference, come back when you compare good discs, something like XT, hope mini/m4, Formula Oro etc....
Don't expect to spend £50 on a disc brake and for it to be amazing because it wont.
I could probably use inferior brakes on my xc and not need anything better.
Doing dh without good hydraulic disks would be crazy, they have saved me many times inferior brakes would not.
I prefer V brakes on the Zaskar LE as I find them easier to adjust to how I like, plenty powerful, light, and cheap to replace.
HS33 can be awesome! Infact with the right pads and rim I would say they take the least lever effort of any brake to lock the wheel.
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14 Kona Unit
Kona Kula SS
Trailstar SS
94 Univega Alpina 5.3
My Trusty Steed
Yup, if they stop you and youre happy with it, then thats good!! I have Vs, they are basic Shimano ones, I worked to set them up well, new cables are always a help, and they work a treat in the dry and wet. Hassle free too as far as I'm concerned. Correct tyres for what you ride are significant too, they provide the traction to speed you up AND slow you down safely without falling off, on whatever surface you are riding.
I haven't used discs, but understand the principle that good ones are very reliable and consistent in all sorts of conditions and unpredictable situations, eg. Downhilling MTB etc...
Its about using whats right for what you ride, and looking after the equipment so it continues to work.
sounds like you brakes need looking at. or you just do not have suitable brakes.
2 brakes 203mm Formula The Ones. and 200mm of travel front and rear.
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
How does it ride?
14 Kona Unit
Kona Kula SS
Trailstar SS
94 Univega Alpina 5.3
thats a nice tandem!
Got a point there. And since having disc brakes i've never looked back. Then again, only had V's on bikes when i was a kid, and had some HS33's on my trials bike until i put Hope mini on the front and V on back... Prob best front brake i've ever had.
I really dnt think V's could out perform discs esp in the mud, more clearance for one thing unless your 2 foot under mud haha
Which is why I got a 203mm front disc and adapter on order, and an adapter for the back (for the 185mm disc 8) ). However, for everything other than the most extreme riding I do, they are powerful enough. And for the record, I'm 14.5 - 15 stone with kit.
No rim brakes I have had or tried can match the awesome power of good discs, set up well, in any condition. A good set of vee's, or HS33 in the dry will be as good as, and possibly be better than discs (with supersoft pads). But in the wet and mud, especially if you give the discs the supersoft compound, miles better.
Only thing is, if you come off, and bend your disc in a big way and cant straighten it on the trail... You have to either take it off or walk home....
Sick to the power of rad
Fix it 'till it's broke
Secondly, the physical process of braking a wheel from the hub with a disc brake as opposed to the rim with a V, side pull or canti should increase the stopping power massively let alone the actual brakes themselves being more powerfull so i'd guess your discs are set up incorectly.
I think you may be getting confused mate. What you have to remember, is that both the rim brakes, and the disc brakes are posistioned a long way from each other. So if they have the same power, the disc will be massively weaker (ALOT more leverage from the wheel, having a smaller diameter braking surface).
But yes, you are right that disc calipers can be engineered to be alot more powerful (with some hydraulic trickery).
Sick to the power of rad
Fix it 'till it's broke
that is all
Beer in moderation ... is a waste of beer
If riding an XC race bike is like touching the trail,
then riding a rigid singlespeed is like licking it
... or being punched by it, depending on the day
Agreed, I personally have only an Avid BB5 on my front with a 160 rotor (and even the stock rotor which is notoriously bad) and a V-brake on the back.
I can lock my front wheel very easily and stop in no time at all with one finger! It's probably worth mentioning that I am 16st so it is no minor feat! I also find myself constantly adjusting the rear brake whereas the disc needs a minor adjustment (turning a small red dial about 3mm) every week or so (pad wear).
Then we move into the performance when the rain starts... the BB5 performs almost as well in heavy rain/mud and the rear brake becomes absolutly useless to the point where a skid becomes impossible using 4 fingers grip and white knuckles.
If I had read this after my first experience with disk brakes I would have agreed that Vs are better as they were some cheap Tektro efforts, but now I have experienced the BB5s I will never go back or doubt the discs again. I do find myself doubting the need to spend more than the £40 I spent on discs though, as I haven't even felt the need to change from the 'bad' stock BB5 rotors.