Useless Amateur Bike "Fixer" needs advice on adjus

awkward

I have a Focus Cayo with Ultegra gears. I noticed the front derailleur was rubbing a bit, so tried to adjust it with some random turns of the adjuster screws on the top. This solved the problem, but now when I change from the big ring to the small one, it feels like I have to overcome quite a bit of resistance and then it changes down with a big CLUNK!

Help!! (please bear in mind that I struggled to fit a new chain - even with the SRAM Power Lock!)

(actually while I'm on - is it ok to have to Power Lock links on one chain - it's a long story )

I really ought to leave all this to the professionals

k-dog

Unfortunately you probably did the wrong thing - the screws are for adjusting the upper and lower position of the derailleur - and that's not usually the problem when the chain is rubbing - that's more likely to just be the indexing not quite right.

First to get the limits back to the right place:

What you want to do is put the derailleur in its most inboard position and check where it is - adjust the lower limit screw so that there is adequate clearance between the derailleur and the chainring - about a mm between the frame side of the cage and the chain is about right.

Then do the same for the upper position by pulling the cable with your hand (on the downtube is best). Obviously this time you want 1mm between the chain and the outside of the cage. Doing this ensures that the derailleur moves enough without pushing the chain too far so that it falls off.

It's also worth checking that the derailleur is parallel to the chain - you don't want the back leaning in our out.

Then, to get the shifting right:

Now, use the shifters to try to change up to the next ring - if it doesn't go or you have to click twice then you have to increase the cable tension. You do this by turning the adjuster on the cable where it leaves the brake hoods. Do this until it changes up easily.

Then do the same going back down and make sure it goes back easily. If it doesn't then turn the adjuster (quarter or so turn at a time) until it does.

It's basically a balancing act between going up and going down so that they both change easily.

It's not actually that hard once you work out what you are doing - just takes a few minutes to get the hang of it.

Much easier with the bike off the ground too.

Parktool.com is a very helpful site for all repair help. That's where I always go when I'm stuck.

ohlala!

the above instructions are correct, however I would like to add that whenever you adjust mechs, it's best to loosen the cable first and then tighten it again after you've set up the lower limit.

awkward

Thanks for the advice - I'll give it a go when I get home and keep you posted. I feel a work stand purchase coming on!

awkward

actually, before I buy a workstand, do I need a special type for a Carbon framed bike? It has an alloy seatpost.

k-dog

No, just a regular workstand is fine.

I clamp mine by the seatpost anyway - funny shaped tubes are hard to clamp without using too much pressure and seatposts are stronger generally and obviously much cheaper and easier to replace.