Bike going into 'neutral' = failing freehub?

graeme_s-2
graeme_s-2 Posts: 3,382
edited May 2009 in Workshop
A couple of times on my ride into work this morning the cranks span freely without moving the chain a bit like I was stuck in 'neutral'. It's a shimano 105 setup with R550 wheels, would I be right in thinking that this is the freehub failing?

Will probably throw it into the LBS to get it fixed, but just wanted to get an idea of what the problem is.

Comments

  • Mister W
    Mister W Posts: 791
    It sounds like the dogs in the freehub are sticking. How handy are you with the spanners? Take the cassette off, remove the freehub, check for damage, grease and reassemble.
  • Simon Notley
    Simon Notley Posts: 1,263
    Yes, it's the freehub beginning to go. In theory, all it needs is cleaning and relubricating, but they're sealed units so your LBS will probably just sell you a new one. You can sometimes rejuvenate them by working lots of WD40 into them to clean them out and then leaving them in bath of oil overnight to relubricate, but it's probably not worth your time when a new one is only £20.
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,317
    If you have the tools to remove the cassette, it's a 10 minutes job. Take off the cassette, then with two spanners you open the hub ends and take the free hub off. Likely the "catches" inside (those making the ticking noise) are stuck with dirt. Clean, lube, reassemble and you're done.
    In removing the freehub body, make sure you don't loose the catches springs, they tend to fall off and they're very tiny... try to work on a clean, well illuminated surface
    left the forum March 2023
  • don key
    don key Posts: 494
    Graeme_S wrote:
    A couple of times on my ride into work this morning the cranks span freely without moving the chain a bit like I was stuck in 'neutral'. It's a shimano 105 setup with R550 wheels, would I be right in thinking that this is the freehub failing?

    Will probably throw it into the LBS to get it fixed, but just wanted to get an idea of what the problem is.

    Don't hang out with that stuff as it's dangerous, not just in reality but it plays on your mind .
    It has happened me on Scirrocos(various ages, 2 to 4 years old) and even a Eurus(3 years old) but not Boras(4 years old) or Shamals(new). In the wrong situation it can be lethal, with the Sciroccos it was the springs with dirt and rust ,. was fixed by a good mechanic and served well after that.Without knowledge it is a minefield, good luck.
  • graeme_s-2
    graeme_s-2 Posts: 3,382
    Thanks for everybody's help and suggestions.

    I don't have the time, tools or skills to attempt this one by myself just now, so I'll probably just take the wheel down to my LBS in the next couple of days.
  • fuzzynavel
    fuzzynavel Posts: 718
    That's pretty handy....I just came on to post virtually the same question...

    I have tools so will probably take the thing apart for a look before buying a new one when I can't get it back together!

    Thanks to all who replied to the OP
    17 Stone down to 12.5 now raring to get back on the bike!
  • RedJohn
    RedJohn Posts: 272
    Had this problem on Campag Record hub.
    I took it apart to try to sort it - turned out the circular spring that pushes the pawls out had broken.
    Only £1.50 for a new spring, but it's happened twice more since ...
  • andy_wrx
    andy_wrx Posts: 3,396
    If you're interested in taking it apart, this will help
    http://www.icebike.org/Equipment/freehub.htm

    Note that you do need a special tool (or make one) to actually disassemble the freehub body and get inside at the pawls.

    If you're buying one...rather than paying £20 for the freehub body, I bought a new Tiagra 4400 rear hub for about £12 last year and took one off that to fir to my WHR550's (opposite problem to you - rather than getting neutral, I'd got a fixie !), which is a bit cheaper and also gives spare bearings, cones, skewer, etc
  • fuzzynavel
    fuzzynavel Posts: 718
    Can you just replace the bit in the centre of the back wheel without having to relace all of the spokes?
    17 Stone down to 12.5 now raring to get back on the bike!
  • k-dog
    k-dog Posts: 1,652
    Yes, it's not the whole hub that needs changed - just the freewheel part.

    When you take the cassette off you can then remove the freehub from the hub - it's not too hard.

    Then you just fit the new or repaired one back on - and the spokes and everything else don't need touched.
    I'm left handed, if that matters.
  • graeme_s-2
    graeme_s-2 Posts: 3,382
    andy_wrx wrote:
    If you're interested in taking it apart, this will help
    http://www.icebike.org/Equipment/freehub.htm

    Note that you do need a special tool (or make one) to actually disassemble the freehub body and get inside at the pawls.

    If you're buying one...rather than paying £20 for the freehub body, I bought a new Tiagra 4400 rear hub for about £12 last year and took one off that to fir to my WHR550's (opposite problem to you - rather than getting neutral, I'd got a fixie !), which is a bit cheaper and also gives spare bearings, cones, skewer, etc

    Thanks for this, but it's too late now, I dropped it into the bike shop yesterday. Going to cost me best part of £40 once labour's been added to the cost of the replacement freehub body.

    Kicking myself for not buying a set of Planet X model B wheels the other week when they were down to £100 now :roll:

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