Over Tighten, Possible?

jedi_master

I know you can over tighten the qr skewers which would cause the wheel not to spin too freely and you can over load the bearings in the head and external bottom bracket, but I was wondering what about other parts. I.E the bolt that holds the freehub on park tools repair help said to tighten to 360 inch-pounds but what if your using a long hex rather than a torque wrench, what if with that you go past 360 inch-pounds will this have any affect on how well the drive chain preforms? maybe strange noises, grinding etc..?

Same with the bolt that holds the cassette on, what if you go past parks recommended 360 inch-pounds, will this compress the cassette in a tad causing the chain to rub/ alot more.

What do you guys think.

nicklouse

very hard to over tighten any big parts.

but is a torque figure is given it is best to follow it.

re the free hub bolt not will not do anything other than you might strip the threads.

cassette not really

why you got funny noises?

what have you changed from what?

jedi_master

Well I was putting a new chain on so I cleaned the cassette, front chainring and cranks, tightened the freehub bolt a bit as it seemed to have come a tab loose, adjusted the cones so now everything is nice and clean I then put the new chain on and every thing was fine in the stand but once I started riding when pedalling hard there was a grinding noise coming from the back only seemed to happen when the drive side pedal was pushed but after a while it seemed to stop so I thought I may have over tightened something. I'll see if the noise is still there next ride.

The cassette and chain ring didn't need replacing, the chain I replaced as the old once was at 0.75% stretch.

nicklouse

if the freehub bolt was lose you may need to re set the stop screws on the mech.

or when you re assembled the bearing for the hub you did not get them right?

what hub?

jedi_master

Deore hub, the bearings were fine, never actually took them out.

nicklouse

err then how did you tighten the freehub bolt?

jedi_master

Took the axle out then put the hex tool in, never actually removed the bearings though.

nicklouse

are you sure all the balls are still there and you did not knock one into the hub body?

common problem.

jedi_master

I'm 99% sure I never knocked a bearing into the hub, I would have thought that a bearing in the hub would make more of a tapping/ rattling sound rather than a grinding/hard rubbing sound.

Either way it seems to have stopped but if it comes back I'll just dismantle and rebuild.

Thanks for the help though.

cee

Jedi Master

bearings still inside the hub body do not tend to rattle about because of the grease...they tend to stick somewhere.

BigStu2

Jedi Master, You appear to have used too much force.
Whats that, Old joke OK

Chaz.Harding

Yeah, +1 for too much force. If you spin the axle (if you can!!) you'll feel its grindy, and NOT smooth.

It's really quite difficult to over-tighten and damage bearings. Think of the loads they're safely designed to take - upwards of 20st riders!! Thats alot of pressure on the bearings, so over-tightening them a little bit with your standered allen keys is unlikely to do any damage.

If they are over-tight, you'll experience a faster wear rate of bearings and bearing surfaces (the cones), and they wheels / headset / whatever, won't spin freely.

Oh, and don't forget the grease! (I like Dura-Ace and Finish-Line Teflon grease)

8)

jedi_master

Never actually overtightened the cones the adjustment there was fine so the bearings are ok. It was just the bolt holding the freehub body on and the screw on part that holds the cassette on.