Bottom bracket tool for Campagnolo B/B

Lunge

Hi

The Campag B/B on my Bianchi road bike needs replacing once again (this will be the 6th time) The last one was replaced in my LBS and they charged me loads because they said it was so difficult to get out. Where is the best place to get hold of the removing tool? Its the type with 6 semi-circular notches around the edge.

Thanks

Phil

Al_38

Pretty sure this is the tool you need: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Campa ... 360009182/

It isnt cheap though

Slow Downcp

Think it's this one:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=16523

The BB can be an arse to get out if it's not been greased before installing, otherwise it should come out okay.

Smokin Joe

Slow Downcp wrote:

Think it's this one:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=16523

The BB can be an ars* to get out if it's not been greased before installing, otherwise it should come out okay.

Looks great, doesn't it?

Unfortunately it's rubbish. You'd have a job to get the cups more than finger tight and you could forget about undoing them. You would remove your knuckles long before the cup even thought about moving as it slips with even the slightest force.

Have a shop round online for a Campag C spanner, cheap and effective.

velotechcycling

We normally have the Campag tool UT-BB100, designed specifically for this job, on hand.

It's a good idea (and many shops don't do it) to have the threads in the frame "chased" before the new unit is fitted, and, as an earlier poster pointed out, fit the unit with plenty of grease on the threads to act as an insulator to prevent galvanic corrosion.

Chasing will clean all of the debris out of the BB threadsin the frame (including any oxidised / otherwise corroded material that might be there from previous fittings without grease, and it will also ensure that any damage done to the threads by the previous installation / removal cycle is to as great an extent as possible, repaired.

In effect that way you have a clean and re-formed thread to fit your brand new BB unit into, so the threads will accurately and cleanly mesh.

Make sure the tapers on the ends of the BB axle are completely grease-free before fitting the cranks.

Make sure the BB that the shop fits is ISO taper and not the far more common JIS taper if the cranks that are going onto it are Campag. I mention this because old stock aside, genuine Campag square taper BBs are getting a bit harder to find since production at Campag has now largely ceased (though Miche, TA, Stronglite and a few others produce ISO taper BBs).

Again, a lot of shops (and some manufacturers) don't seem to realise that there are two standards for BB tapers & that they are not compatible.

Last, if you are going through a lot of BBs, it might just be worth getting the shop to face the frame off before fitting your BB - that is to say, using a facing cutter to make sure that both sides of the BB shell are exactly parallel and square to the BB threads. If the faces are out of alignment, even with a sealed bearing BB, the design that you have, where you have a flange on the BB cup that is tightened against the face of the BB shell, can place an uneven load on the sealed bearings in the unit so accelerating wear and tear.

Don't wash your bike with a jet wash, try not to spray thin lubricants indiscriminately around the BB area, ditto de-greasers, and do take your seatpin out, periodically, and drain any water that might build up inside your seat tube.

All of those things *can* have a negative effect on BB life.

Slow Downcp

Smokin Joe wrote:

Slow Downcp wrote:

Think it's this one:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=16523

The BB can be an ars* to get out if it's not been greased before installing, otherwise it should come out okay.

Looks great, doesn't it?

Unfortunately it's rubbish. You'd have a job to get the cups more than finger tight and you could forget about undoing them. You would remove your knuckles long before the cup even thought about moving as it slips with even the slightest force.

Have a shop round online for a Campag C spanner, cheap and effective.

It worked okay for me before I switched to UT :roll:

If it does slip though, put the crankarm back on over the top of the spanner, just tight enough to stop the spanner slipping off.

PHcp

The Tracx tool is better, is screws on and can't slip. You'll also need a big spanner or adjustable.
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/productde ... 0000000000