seating fitting/sorting seatpost.

blablablacksheep
blablablacksheep Posts: 1,377
edited April 2009 in MTB beginners
I been trying to get my seatpost sorted out, and i thought i got it sorted out but been looking at other riders around and it looks as if their seat is way higher than i would of thought it should be.

my question is, have i got the seat right .

i used The LeMond method 88.3% so length from pedal to top of saddle is 79cms.

i tried the 109% but it looked stupidly high up way above the handlebars.

i wondering does 79cms sound about right for me, im 6foot ish tall.

any advise on this be great, also maybe other 6 foot people give their messurements for their seat posts be also usefull.

cheers
London2Brighton Challange 100k!
http://www.justgiving.com/broxbourne-runners

Comments

  • Andy B
    Andy B Posts: 8,115
    This is the method I use, with the heel of your foot on the pedal (at the bottom of the stroke) you should have a straight leg, then when you have the ball of your foot on the pedal there will be a slight bend at the knee, should be about right for most folks.
    2385861000_d125abe796_m.jpg
  • sniper68
    sniper68 Posts: 2,910
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
    Thats the best method 8)
  • ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
    that's the method I use, my saddle looks too high but makes for a really comfy riding position and reduces fatigue on my legs. Just remember to drop the saddle for bumpy out of the saddle stuff! :shock:
  • Andy_B wrote:
    This is the method I use, with the heel of your foot on the pedal (at the bottom of the stroke) you should have a straight leg, then when you have the ball of your foot on the pedal there will be a slight bend at the knee, should be about right for most folks.

    just to confirm then when my pedal is at the bottom stroke/lowest and my heel on it my leg should be straight, then when i move my foot back onto ball of the foot i should have bent leg/knee.

    out of interest doesnt this mean your feet cannot touch ground then sinse your leg straight when heel on pedal..

    also dont you get lower back strain from this high position?
    London2Brighton Challange 100k!
    http://www.justgiving.com/broxbourne-runners
  • Daz555
    Daz555 Posts: 3,976
    The leg straight when your heel is on pedal is a good starting point. After a few rides you'll get an idea if you'd like it slightly higher or lower. Personally I have mine slightly lower as I find my hips rock a little too much when my saddle is in the 'default' position.
    out of interest doesnt this mean your feet cannot touch ground then sinse your leg straight when heel on pedal..
    Yes, you are unlikely to be able to get both feet on the ground at the same time when you have set your saddle up for pedaling efficiency, rather than say for downhill or jumping.
    also dont you get lower back strain from this high position?
    Back strain would not be a result of saddle height alone. You need to consider the whole cockpit - top tube length, stem length/rise, bar sweep/rise, and how far forward or back the seat is on the rails.
    You only need two tools: WD40 and Duck Tape.
    If it doesn't move and should, use the WD40.
    If it shouldn't move and does, use the tape.
  • dunker
    dunker Posts: 1,456
    i'm the same as daz, have mine about 1/2 cm below the "ideal" position as my hips rock a bit.
    can just tiptoe one leg on the ground when sat on it. no back pain but i do regular push-ups and have read that can help though never suffered back pain before luckily.
  • dont worry about push ups, i can do 75 in under 2 mins :)

    isnt this leg straight on pedal method the basic one that the shops use?

    just saying this as reading this:

    http://www.bikeradar.com/fitness/techni ... ight-14608

    says the shop method isnt good when compared to the other 3 methods.

    what you recon?
    London2Brighton Challange 100k!
    http://www.justgiving.com/broxbourne-runners
  • Daz555
    Daz555 Posts: 3,976
    says the shop method isnt good when compared to the other 3 methods.

    what you recon?
    Doesn't really matter as all 3 methods can only provide you with a sensible starting point. Once you have a starting point you can then adjust the over a number of rides to find the best for you.

    Our bodies are all different. There is no 100% right solution for finding saddle height.
    You only need two tools: WD40 and Duck Tape.
    If it doesn't move and should, use the WD40.
    If it shouldn't move and does, use the tape.