Dilemma - Which Bike for Touring?
richard36
Posts: 346
Hi
Would appreciate some advice
I'm planning on doing a bike tour in May (about 550 miles). I was intending to use my MTB and I've fitted some sliks and a pannier rack. I recently bought a roadbike (the first I've owned). I got it second hand and having made a few adjustments with the seat and handlebars it seems quite comfortable. So much so that I'm wondering whether to use it for my tour. (Even with the sliks the roadbike goes much faster).
It's made by SJS Cycles (that's all it has on the frame) but it's not a touring bike because there are no holes to screw the top part of the pannier rack to the frame. Is it possible to fit the rack to the bike so that it will be stable?
If I do use it should I change the tyres? There is a Continental Duraskin on the front and a Continental Gatorskin on the bike.
Apart from it being faster are there any other advantages to using a roadbike for touring over a 'converted' MTB?
Apologies for all the questions.
Many thanks
Richard
Would appreciate some advice
I'm planning on doing a bike tour in May (about 550 miles). I was intending to use my MTB and I've fitted some sliks and a pannier rack. I recently bought a roadbike (the first I've owned). I got it second hand and having made a few adjustments with the seat and handlebars it seems quite comfortable. So much so that I'm wondering whether to use it for my tour. (Even with the sliks the roadbike goes much faster).
It's made by SJS Cycles (that's all it has on the frame) but it's not a touring bike because there are no holes to screw the top part of the pannier rack to the frame. Is it possible to fit the rack to the bike so that it will be stable?
If I do use it should I change the tyres? There is a Continental Duraskin on the front and a Continental Gatorskin on the bike.
Apart from it being faster are there any other advantages to using a roadbike for touring over a 'converted' MTB?
Apologies for all the questions.
Many thanks
Richard
0
Comments
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Assuming your tour is on good roads....
It all depends on how much kit you are carrying. If you are doing a lightweight tour (i.e. no tent, or else superlightweight tent), then you should try the roadbike, you'll go a lot faster and easier. If bringing a lot of kit (in excess of 12-15 kg, or about 30lbs), then you'll need the strength and stiffness of the mtb.
You can fit a rack to a roadbike using p-clips - most bike shops should sell them. If getting a Tubus rack you can get an extension so that the rack fits onto the skewer, not eyelets (I would guess you don't have eyelets at the drop out either if you don't have them on the upper chainstays). Another option instead of p-clips are seat collar clamps with built in eyelets, I think they are made by M-Part.
But the only way to know for sure is to do a trial set up. It may be that you just have too much kit for a roadbike, the only way is to try it.
I've toured on both mtb's and road bikes. If you can keep your kit down light, then a road bike is faster and smoother - just generally more enjoyable. The only reason to use an mtb is that it is stronger and you can go on rough roads.
I wouldn't tour on those tyres. Try to work out what the widest tyre it is you can use, and try something stronger and more punctureproof, such as Specialized All Condition Pro's.0 -
IME Continental Gatorskins offer a very good combination of puncture resistance and light weight. They'd be fine for road touring - although if the bike is secondhand the tyres may be worn.
If there's space for a wider tyre you might want to look at Conti Sport Contacts.0 -
A point about the gatorskins - some love them, some have had terrible experiences on them. A think a key thing about them is that they have to be kept at a high pressure to stay puncture resistance. This is quite tough on tour as you won't have a track pump. You will need a very good portable pump to do this - the Topeak Road Morph for example.0
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GyatsoLa wrote:A think a key thing about them is that they have to be kept at a high pressure to stay puncture resistance.
All puncture resistant tyres use the same basic idea of a band of tougher material - normally kevlar to prevent sharp objects getting through. (Some also have the twist of reinforcing the sides as well). All other things being equal (eg same tyre width) I can't see why Gatorskins would need to be run at higher pressure.0 -
Thanks for your replies
I'm not taking a tent, cooking stuff etc and whilst I will be taking the Ortlieb Classic panniers I won't be filling them to the brim.
I will try and get some clips for the pannier rack - it's a Tortec Expedition rack - and see how it goes
Thanks
Richard0 -
If the bike takes a 31.8mm seatclamp then one of these would do the job:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=19012
Don't ask me why they don't do it in other sizes.0 -
andymiller
I'll check out my seatpost and see if the seatclamp will fit
thanks
richard0 -
I wouldn't choose either of those Conti's, the rubber is soft (probably grippy) but is prone to early wear, cuts and punctures. I tour with Spesh all conditions pro's or Schwalbe marathons - never had a puncture caused by penetration through the tyre (in may thousands of miles). The only punctures I have had were due to a valve stem parting company and the rim tape not being fitted properly. When I used Conti's I got regular punctures, and the rear tyre wore out in 4 months.0
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alfablue
are you referring to the schwalbe marathon plus tyres? the tyres I have on at the moment are 700 x 23c and the smallest width for the schwalbe is 25c - is that much of a difference?
cheers
richard0 -
I use Schwalbe Marathon regular ones (not plus), they are available from 25 upwards, hard to find in that size though, but Spa Cycles had them. I also use Marathons in 26x1.5 when I tour on my mtb. I think 25 or more makes more sense for touring, more air volume allows slightly lower air pressure and more comfort especially with a load. 23 to 25 isn't a great difference though, the limiting factor may be fork/brake/mudguard clearance.0
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great
thanks
richard0