Stroker Trail Trouble...

Rozza

Hello one and all,

I've got some trouble with the pistons on my Stroker Trail brakes. They push out from the body of whatever it's called they're housed in and the pads are rubbing on the rotor. I've tried pushing them back in but the buggers just slide back out. When I fitted some new pads they wouldn't fit over the rotor they stick out so much.

Do they need a bleed? Is this easy? I didn't get a kit when I bought the bike, will the one I have for Avid Juicy Sevens work? What kind of oil will I need?

So many questions?

If there is air in the system, can I not just let it out somewhere?

They're the 2009 incarnation.

Or, do you know how much one should pay at a LBS for a good old bleed?

Many thanks,

Rough Rider.

alaric@epicmtb

Bleeding has nothing to do with the symptoms you describe - brakes that need bleeding typically feel very "squishy", and low on power.

Hydraulic brakes do not retract the piston fully into the bore every time the brake is released, they just release the excess pressure that is causing you to slow.

Some brakes will always drag slightly!

Don't go pushing the pistons back into the bores unless you need to - but you do need to before a pad change. The easiest way is to leave the old pads in and, with the wheel removed, use a broad bladed flat screwdriver to ease the pistons back. Don't use this method without the pads in as it can damage some designs. If the pads are out and can't go back in you need to use an open end spanner to push on the outside edge of the piston only (not, for example, the pin in the centre of some Hayes brakes).

Finally...what can you do if you brakes are dragging excessively?

Firstly do they drag evenly as the wheel rotates? If not the rotor may be bent - true or replace it

Secondly, with the bike upside down or at eye level on a stand, look closely at the gaps between the pads and rotors (holding a piece of white paper behind the caliper can sometimes help with this - or a small torch) - are the gaps even between left and right pads - or is only one touching? If it's only touching on one side you can re-align the caliper.

If your brakes are post mount (most Hayes are) you can re-align them by loosening the 2 bolts that hold the brake or adaptor to the fork/frame, pull the brake on and hold it then tighten. If they're still off centre do it again but put a piece of clean business card or similar between the pad that is touching and the rotor before pulling the lever on and tightening the bolts.

If none of these work it may be time for a trip to the LBS!

Hopefully this helps a bit....

cullen_bay

take out the pads, put silicon lube around the pistons and move it around with a zip tie, then move the pistons back and refit the pads ( squeezing them back if needed) after that there should be no trouble.

hayes brakes are SH1T in my experience!

dave_hill

Rozza wrote:

I've got some trouble with the pistons on my Stroker Trail brakes. They push out from the body of whatever it's called they're housed in and the pads are rubbing on the rotor. I've tried pushing them back in but the buggers just slide back out. When I fitted some new pads they wouldn't fit over the rotor they stick out so much.

You need to be patient with Hayes brakes. Take the caliper off, remove the pads. If you still have the old ones, put them back then use a flat bladed screwdriver to lever the pads apart. You now need to fit some thin plastic, steel, or wood between them that is thicker than the brake disc. Once you've done that, leave it over night.

Now take your old pads and whatever you packed them out with out, refit the new pads and refit the caliper to the bike. It will still probably be tight but not as tight as it was before. Once you've secured the caliper, go for a ride, preferably somewhere muddy. Make sure you do lots of nice, long, brake-dragging descents and hard stops. By the time you get home, your brake should be back to normal.

Rozza wrote:

Do they need a bleed?

No.

Rozza wrote:

Is this easy?

Yes, piece of piddle.

Rozza wrote:

I didn't get a kit when I bought the bike, will the one I have for Avid Juicy Sevens work?

No. Avid's bleeding method and the kit it involves is a nightmare. Hayes' is far simpler, it's just like a miniature motorbike brake. You can push-bleed them too which give far better results than using the pump-and-squirt method. (Hint - try using the forum search and look for "Hayes push bleed")

Rozza wrote:

What kind of oil will I need?

Any normal DOT3 or DOT4 automotive brake fluid. You can use DOT5.1 but bear in mind that it will need changing more often as it absorbs moisture more quickly than the other two.

Rozza wrote:

So many questions?

You never learn if you don't ask.

Rozza wrote:

If there is air in the system, can I not just let it out somewhere?

That's what bleeding's all about - but this isn't your problem anyway.

Rozza

Thanks for all the sound advice folks. I think I'll try leaving them wedged open overnight and if that don't do it I'll go down the silicon lube around the pistons route.

Thats a good tip with the business card, never thought of that.

The rear brake just seems 'not reet'. When I adjust the post mount bolts and move them all the way over to the right (looking from the rear of the bike) they line up well with the disk. However, when I tighten them the brake moves slightly to the left and the rubbing persists on the inside brake pad.

Although the increased resistance is great fiz I'd for once like not to be last to the summit.

Well I'm off for a ride tonight, fixed or not, I need a fix.

I'll let you know how I get on,

Thanks again.