Preventing neck & back aches while riding?

jimmcdonnell

Now before anyone replies "use the 'search' box..", I'd like to point out I already did that and got 27,000 results none of which apparently dealt with my search terms...

So anyway - I ride a Focus 'Cross (commute), and a Litespeed Tuscany (longer road rides).

When I bought the Focus I got a 56 as I thought that was the right off-the-peg size for me (I'm 5' 10", inside leg about 33" I think?) - although my LBS later thought that was a bit big. The Litespeed was a must-have eBay purchase, and a 54 - didn't care if it was too small, just wanted it!

It took me a while to get used to the Focus (- which I put down to changing to drops after years of flat bar riding) but the daily commute got much easier on my back and shoulders after a few weeks. When the Litespeed came along, it felt more comfy - I've since shortened the stem of the Focus from 110mm to 90mm, which has helped,

However, in both cases, after about the first 15 miles of any ride, my back neck and shoulders are always in pain, right between the shoulder blades; I got rid of my helmet visor so I wouldn't have to crane my neck up so much, but the problem persists. On long rides it isn't my legs or lungs that stop me, it's the back ache.

I may have missed relevant info, but - any suggestions? I assume many on these forums have, or have had, the same problem - how did you cure it?

- Jim

peanut

how do you ride Jim? on the hoods or the drops ?

getting a comfortable position on a bike is not easy. There is a load of equine manure out there that offers all sorts of stupid non workable formulae like not being able to see your front hub !??? . :shock:
It sounds to me like you need to completely rethink your riding position.

Unless you are doing a lot of high speed riding you really don't need to be getting down into a time trial or triathlon position on the drops. I have riden the last 15 years on road bikes exclusively on the hoods. I have never used the drops evan at 30+mph. I find I can get just as low on the hoods and I find it more comfortable and have better control of the bike but it is a personal preference.

Here is the most sensible practical discussion on bike fitting I have ever read. There are no easy answers here or fit formulae but it should help if you are willing to do some work to find out what suits you.
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm

jimmcdonnell

I'm 90% on the hoods, but as soon as the aches set in I'm all over the bars trying to vary my position to relieve the tension. Still rarely on the drops though.

I'm a motorbike rider, and part of the rider training for that (based on the Stage 1 police handbook) is to look up and ahead so you can anticipate conditions, problems etc - I wonder if I just need to look down a bit more on the bike, while still being able to watch road and traffic conditions?

pneumatic

I'm no expert, but I did have your problem quite a bit when I (re)started road riding about 10 years ago. Your head is heavy and asking your shoulders to support it in the riding position for hours on end is a big ask.

What I did was a series of off-bike exercises with weights to strengthen arms and shoulders. Nothing too arduous, but regular. After a while, the pain lessened and then went away.

I still get it sometimes on early season rides but it soon goes.

Hope that helps.

jimmcdonnell

I will always pay attention to someone with a Captain Beefheart reference in their signature - I was secretly hoping the problem might be muscular (don't want someone telling me "you've bought the wrong size bikes, stupid!"); what sort of exercises? I'm picturing strapping a 2kg weight to my forehead and looking up and down a lot, but suspect that's not what you're talking about...

- Jim

Gary D

Jim,
Have you thought about going for a proper bike fitting session with someone that knows what they are doing?

I had exactly the same problem as you and was convinced it was just because I was tense and just needed to relax more when riding. However, I went for a fitting at Paul Hewitt's and he explained it was because I was too cramped. In reality, on a bike that was slightly too small. He corrected it as best he could with saddle height and position and stem adjustment - and hey presto - the problem was resolved

It is well worth the money!
Gary.

crankycrank

A few things to play around with are stem length, handlebar height, saddle height, saddle setback and even leg length discrepency. And especially in your case you may have handlebars that are too narrow. Took me a few years to get the sweet spot of setup for myself and went through an awful period of back strains and pain. Everything on my bike has to be within about a 3mm range of adjustment or it all turns to poop. Anyways, try one adjustment at a time starting with the easy ones such as raising your bars and saddle position. Be very patient and willing to spend a little money if necessary. Also strengthening you're stomach area does wonders for the back.

Monty Dog

Generally, neck and shoulder stiffness is due to incorrect reach or 'death grip' on the bars. Usually, arms stretched and elbows locked is the culprit. Without seeing your riding position it's hard to make a recommendation - but a shorter stem and raising the bars to the same height as the saddle helps many people. Suggest you book a bike fit session with a decent shop for an expert opinion.

le_grimpeur

Also, if you can't raise the bars high enough, try a new stem. I had severe shoulder and neck ache when acclimatising to the road bike, and despite the protestations of the LBS who claimed the angle I was after was too high, I did find the new postion eliminated the problems. The beauty of this particular stem was that it was not fixed, so I had even greater play. It had a detrimental effect on the handling, but one that I overcame.

le_grimpeur

Also, if you can't raise the bars high enough, try a new stem. I had severe shoulder and neck ache when acclimatising to the road bike, and despite the protestations of the LBS who claimed the angle I was after was too high, I did find the new postion eliminated the problems. The beauty of this particular stem was that it was not fixed, so I had even greater play. It had a detrimental effect on the handling, but one that I overcame.