Wheel Truing Confusion
bazmcg
Posts: 95
I've just bought a wheel truing jig and I'm going to start truing my wheels. However over the last number of days I've read 4 books/articles with 4 diferent methods for truing wheels.
The first one said to only tighten the spoke on the opposite side in the middle of the buckle.
The second one said to tighten the spoke on the opposite side in the middle of the buckle and to loosen the one beside it on the same side as the buckle.
The third one said the same as the second one but that you loosen the 2 spokes the same side as the buckle beside the one you tighten
The forth one said you need to tighten 2 spokes on the opposite side of the buckle and loosen the 2 spokes beside them on the same side as the buckle.
At this stage I'm extremely confused as to which method to use. Do all 4 methods produce the same results? Is there one definitve method to use?
The first one said to only tighten the spoke on the opposite side in the middle of the buckle.
The second one said to tighten the spoke on the opposite side in the middle of the buckle and to loosen the one beside it on the same side as the buckle.
The third one said the same as the second one but that you loosen the 2 spokes the same side as the buckle beside the one you tighten
The forth one said you need to tighten 2 spokes on the opposite side of the buckle and loosen the 2 spokes beside them on the same side as the buckle.
At this stage I'm extremely confused as to which method to use. Do all 4 methods produce the same results? Is there one definitve method to use?
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Comments
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can you go on a wheel truing course and true someone elses wheels first to get a feel for it....The Edinburgh Bike Co-Op does courses, so other bike shops must as well.Whenever I see an adult on a bicycle, I believe in the future of the human race.
H.G. Wells.0 -
all of the above are right as far as I know. You essentially want to maintain the spoke tension as much as possible.
It all depends on how far out the rim is. For a tiny amount method 1 is probobly enough, a bit bigger use method 2 and then 3 and 4 for even worse buckels.
Usually just turn the nipple one quater turn at a time and recheck it.
Best way to learn is to try, however if your wortried about it go on a course or go to the LBS and see if you can watch and learn.Giant TCR advanced 2 (Summer/race)
Merlin single malt fixie (Commuter/winter/training)
Trek superfly 7 (Summer XC)
Giant Yukon singlespeed conversion (winter MTB/Ice/snow)
Carrera virtuoso - RIP0 -
All wheel truing is about removing the cause of the out of true "buckle". Just looking at a wheel build in terms of side to side movement is not adequate. The spoke tensions and any radial "hopping" need to be taken into account.
If the rim has been damaged, a perfect result is not achievable so the end result is compromised.0